what would be the cause of knocking/clunking noises?
sound is coming from the rear
sounds like loose bolts but everything is nice and tight. could it be dead shocks?
Japanese Import Spares here in Adelaide sell BRAND NEW JICs for $1550 (for common models like S13, 14, 15 etc), so I don't know the difference in price for these. *Note: RRP for JZX81 is a lot more, so I'll try find out what the difference is in prices. They may be able to order links and whatever is necessary new from JIC for a decent price if people run into trouble. I didn't notice the links on the Japanese JIC site with the GX/JZX81 coilovers but I'll have another look now.
After looking at the site, there is just a generic photo of the coilovers, so I don't know if they have mounts on the struts like factory. I'll see if I can drum up any information from JIS.
Last edited by BTM; 20-04-2008 at 05:15 PM.
what would be the cause of knocking/clunking noises?
sound is coming from the rear
sounds like loose bolts but everything is nice and tight. could it be dead shocks?
if they have a pillow ball top the teflon may be worn causing an annoying clunk that then transfers thru the body.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
I think mine make clunking noises sometimes too.. can't remember.. it's been a while since I've driven it.
I think it came from the front though.. and I figured it's probably because I havn't got the swaybar on yet.
yep, just put my JIC golds in
major loud pillowball top clunking , no more luxury quietness for me ..![]()
Just spoke to Japanese Import Spares and due to the spindle type of the GX/JZX81s brand new coilovers from JIC are around $2500-2600
Pillowball noise is quite common in older coilovers. You can buy new tops (cheap in the scheme of things) if it annoys you enough. It a shame there aren't any near new 81 coilovers available very often![]()
heres my modified links when i had JICS in my cressida
They were just cut and shut by Selby Brothers in Taren Point, i put the original links on the strut mount then drop the car to the ground and lined up where the swaybar would sit.
cost me $20 to have them modified
i think it was about 20-25mm taken out
They look good but if anyone was going to get the same done i would suggest a larger diameter tube (that fits over the rod) that is overlapped and welded over the cut section. This will give it extra strength without too much extra effort.
here's another set I shortened, TIG'd the shortened rods together, linished it flat then slid the tube up over the weld and tigged the tube at both ends
http://users.tpg.com.au/adsl0uxv/link.jpg
hrmmm just found a spare set of Z20 / A70 swaybar links ... they are probably a bit too short though, gonna test this arvo... can anyone give me a measurement tip to tip of what size the correct lenght links should be ?
Exactly what i was talking about, good to see someone else had strength in mind. By the way, what car is that as it looks like the front (steering arm) and there is a driveshaft too?Originally Posted by JP
hey guys
i might have found a factory solution
s13 front swaybar links come out factory with ball/bush type setup
heres some pics
and the whiteline kit (uses a "s" link and a little l shaped bracket)
![]()
that pic's of a supercharged ZZE122r corolla I did for a mate.Originally Posted by big_zop
Originally Posted by ae95
Yep Ian , Right on the money there, if my ex-Z20 soarer links dont work this arvo i was gonna test the S13 theory and was gonna post it on here.
Originally Posted by ae95
Yep Ian , Right on the money there, if my ex-Z20 soarer links dont work this arvo i was gonna test the S13 theory and was gonna post it on here.
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