Battery Relocation Help Please

[oldcorollas]

If you run it through a sill or similar, if you have a stack there you will almost definitely damage the cable.

ahh, thats a good point i hadn't considered...
(i was originally thinking cable might be safer outside than inside with steves flying objects and feet )

[wagonist]

The cable would definitely be secured inside the cabin, there's plenty to secure it to.
It would also be running down the passenger's side, so less chance of moving feet touching it.

Just remember that this is a rally car with a full cage installed. ie side instrusion bar to try to climb over into a fixed full race seat, possibly whilst at a crazy angry off the side of a dirt road...

Most stuff about the Excel series is weight. There is now a minimum weight for the class of 960kg (which is fairly achievable). Most of the weight reduction comes from all the interior, etc being removed from the rear end (stand clear of the hatch when it is opened without the rear wiper ), making the cars a bit tail happy, getting under the weight limit & adding ballast to the rear is better.
Getting as close to the weight limit helps as we're only allowed to run stock engine (2 size overbore max & blueprinted), gearbox, ecu, helps with lack of grunt already.

Battery only needs to be small because it's only turning over a stock motor. No crazy compression ratios with racing fuel here

As for heater, I actually want to run separate power supplies & relays for heater & fan motor. If one fails, I've still got the other to help(?) with demisting.

[Mos]

The cable would definitely be secured inside the cabin, there's plenty to secure it to.
It would also be running down the passenger's side, so less chance of moving feet touching it.

Moving feet are not going to hurt it one bit.
Where are the fuel and brake lines going?

Just remember that this is a rally car with a full cage installed. ie side instrusion bar to try to climb over into a fixed full race seat, possibly whilst at a crazy angry off the side of a dirt road...

Just remember this is 20-35mm^2 of copper which you could use to tow your car with, if not support it completely.

Battery only needs to be small because it's only turning over a stock motor. No crazy compression ratios with racing fuel here

Yes, but it still needs a decent conductor capable of carrying 100odd Amps...

As for heater, I actually want to run separate power supplies & relays for heater & fan motor. If one fails, I've still got the other to help(?) with demisting.

Alternator supplies all that, so whatever supplies you need you should be running them off the alternator and not the battery.

Normally you would run a thick cable from the battery in the boot to an insolating switch somewhere in the centre console. This same terminal would also run to the alternator, through a fuse or circuit breaker.
The other side of the isolating switch would then run to the starter and supply the rest of the car. This way shutting off the isolating switch kills the engine.

Mos.

[oldcorollas]

Just remember this is 20-35mm^2 of copper which you could use to tow your car with, if not support it completely.

should break with a load of around 700-1500kg....

[Mos]

Excellent! Should we ask Ed what the tearing load of a foot is?