1GGTE pinging after engine rebuild. UPDATE - no more pinging!

[Pube]

The head wasnt shaved too much, only done by one shop who has a good reputation. It was shaved/decked due to another shop putting a small ding on the mating surface when they were only supose to be cleaning the thing.

Also. before I rebuilt the engine, when it was on boost it use to blow a bit of smoke as it/they run rich. I dont get any smoke now, no soot, nothing dirty back there. Could be a sign of running lean? Yes I will have to bight the bullet and check the spark plugs and see what they have to say.

[The Real Roadrunner]

what about putting it on a dyno for a couple of power runs to check fuel pressure etc.
heaps easier than fucking around with the car for ages only to be left scratching your head.

cheers
linden

[Duk]

its difficult to check the fuel pressure under boost as the gauge is attached to the regulator which is on the engine. One thing I havent done is remove the spark plugs which im trying to avoid due to the mission of removing the water to air intercooler and everything to go with it. I have retarded the timing back to around 7 deg but still pings.

You can still check fuel pressure. Plumb in a gauge where the flexable fuel line go's to the fuel rail. Fuel pressure should be the same anywhere between the pump and the regulator

[The Real Roadrunner]

You can still check fuel pressure. Plumb in a gauge where the flexable fuel line go's to the fuel rail. Fuel pressure should be the same anywhere between the pump and the regulator

and you see this how when its on boost? maybe if it was remote mounted to the bonnet but stuff driving around with a fuel pressure gauge dangling around on your scuttle panel.

he already has a gauge but can't see it while driving.


cheers
linden

[TheToyman75]

and you see this how when its on boost? maybe if it was remote mounted to the bonnet but stuff driving around with a fuel pressure gauge dangling around on your scuttle panel.

he already has a gauge but can't see it while driving.


cheers
linden

Linden,

Eventually Pube and Co wll work out that after spending weeks or months and hours of wasted time and investment that they should have put it on a fucking dyno in the first place Mind you, IF you have the right tools you can check it on the road under boost but its flow AND pressure you need to test. You might be holding pressure just fine and still not have enough flow

[The Real Roadrunner]

well i kinda said that in the testing fuel pump thread.

also if flow isn't enough the fuel pressure WILL drop off, you can't maintain pressure if your using more fuel than the pump can flow, ie same reason you get small turbos not holding boost till redline.

having said that in a perfect world you should always oversize your fuel system in the first place and have atleast .5lpm returning to your surge tank.

cheers
linden

[love ke70]

but if your using more fuel than the line can flow, not the pump, you will hold pressure but still be short on fuel....
yes?

cheers, andrew

[Forcefed6]

I completely agree with what has been said by Rod and Linden. Put it on the dyno, and have it diagnosed correctly. This may well save you alot of time by chasing your tail by changing/checking things and not fixing the problem.

The problem could most likely be picked p in the matter of a dyno ramp or 2. Saves risking the engine, and having to do it all again I think.

but if your using more fuel than the line can flow, not the pump, you will hold pressure but still be short on fuel....
yes?

cheers, andrew

An 8mm fuel line can surprising supply a lot of fuel.... Well more than what is expected in this case anyway.

A mate of mine made over 500rwhp with the standard 8mm lines in a Silvia. and still had plenty of return to the tank on WOT. All this, and it had an AFR of 11.0.

[The Real Roadrunner]

to love KE70,
nope, if you cant supply the required amount of fuel to the rail it will drop either way.

edit: slow response on my behalf

cheers
linden

[Pube]

I have got myself a new walbro fuel pump and it will be the final step before a run on the dyno. I checked if the pump was noisy and I actually have noticed a high pitched noise comming from the rear of the car however that may have always been there but I never noticed. Find out tomorrow....

[GA61XX]

Q:- what octane of fuel are you using..?? eg. 91ron, 96ron or 98ron..

lower octane will ping.. so use higher octain & lower your boost...

now with the motor rebuilt, head shaved. you may now have better compression..

my old 21R would run on 91ron but after a rebuild with shaved head it would ping it's little head off.. so i ran 96ron & pingging was gone...

cheers

[Pube]

Ive been using premium fuel, mainly vortex 98. Changed the fuel pump today and she still pings. Pulled the plugs out and they are white which is lean?

[TheToyman75]

Vortex is evil ! I wouldn't run my lawnmower on that. I suggest trying BP Ultimate 98.

Have you confirmed top dead centre on your harmo yet ? Ie is the TDC mark at TDC ?


oh and there was something else about a Dyno check or something. Keep in mind these F3ckers have no live Data so they are not easy to fault find.

Are your knock sensors plugged in ??

[Pube]

I checked the TDC mark my putting a screw stick into #1 spark plug hole. The marks seem to be correct. Knock sensors are plugged in. Everyone has their opinions on fuel. At lease im using some sort of premium fuel. Shell still hasnt got premium so next time I will try BP

[GA61XX]

Dyno tune..
faulty AFM..
use larger injectors..