The 1UZ Mods Thread

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Is the AFM a flapper type or hot wire type sensor?


(forgive my n00bness, not too knowledgable when it comes to 1UZ's)

[CrUZida]

90-94 is karmaan vortex. (same as 7mgte)
95-97 is hot wire (DFA works with this model)
98-on I'm not really sure.

[CoronaC]

Said in the description that it had been tested on LS400's so i was assuming that it would work fine on any 1UZ's, bit of a dissapointment.Oh well guess ill put the money towards a better intake, the snorkel on the ls400 looks like it could do with some minor mods to get a bit more air going in.

Cheers
Chris

[camrygt?]

yeah i'm keeping it auto, so i guess i really don't have another choice, except the expensive one! what about tranmission controllers? has anybody got anything to say on them?

I've always wanted to know is it possible to keep the standard and ecu and wire a aftermarket one in parallel to keep the auto working?

just pinch the injector and ignition wires from the factory ecu and parallel up the crank/cam sensor.

I know its been done on hundreds of other motors but I have never heard of it done on a 1UZ?
Does it have something to do with not being able to parallel up the crank/cam sensors because the factory ecu has an issue with connecting something that grounds or applys a voltage to one of these wires?

If it does I think I could build something that effectively "copies" the orginal signal from these sensors allowing both ecu's to work

[CrUZida]

I've heard of a couple of guys in NZ doing this yes.

[V8Cressida]

i'm gonna probly make my own headers if i can't get the standards to fit. just to make sure, the runner pairs should be: 1 7, 3 5, 2 8, 4 6?

I'm having extractors built (car is on the hoist having them built right now). Is this something I should know about? I've not heard about pairing runners before and I want to make sure the exhaust guys do it the right way. How important is it?

While we're on it, any suggestions as to primary header pipe size? Also, I told them to build a long collector if possible. Not sure if I've got too much choice there though. Is it critical Headers By Ed claims that's it's super critical.

[joecoolmk2]

if you're after power gains then yes it does matter.

i'm gonna be using 1-1/4" primaries. the length is determined by what rpm you're expecting to run the engine at. shorter for higher rpm, longer for lower rpm.

[V8Cressida]

Thanks.

Could you give me an example of a length range for short and long? I spend more time in the midrange than down low or up high. I'm guessing that medium is the best. Could that be oversimplifying it? Will I even have a choice in my cramped engine bay? I'm guessing that apart from making sure they don't use primary tube too large and try to make the collectors as "un-short and stubby" as possible I won't have too much of a choice of primary pipe length.

[joecoolmk2]

Thanks.

Could you give me an example of a length range for short and long? I spend more time in the midrange than down low or up high. I'm guessing that medium is the best. Could that be oversimplifying it? Will I even have a choice in my cramped engine bay? I'm guessing that apart from making sure they don't use primary tube too large and try to make the collectors as "un-short and stubby" as possible I won't have too much of a choice of primary pipe length.

i guess your engine bay's pretty cramped like mine then. this is a daily driver then?

so's mine, except i'm more limited on space then you. from my investigating, i've worked out that you should pair the middle two cylinders of each bank(ie 1 with 7, 3 with 5, 2 with 8, and 4 with 6) for what you want, you should make the primaries as long as you can, and 1-1/4" like i am.

[sideshow]

i have just ordered a chip torque xede for my 1uz hilux
its maybe lost a tiny bit o fpower a nd economy lately
so first thing ill do is check and adjust tappets over next few weeks
one side at a time
then i will get it tuned nd get a before and after run
but i am doin this for economy not power
ill still gain power due to leaning off of the mixtures

another thing i have found over time thru the work i do and customers i talk to over the phone is

alot of people who spend money on cheap bits like megasquirt and those jaycar
controllers also spend cheap on tuning these cheap ecus
this is because the tune usually costs twice as much as the ecu
anyway i think these days u get what you pay for

if i can get an extra 50 to 70 kms extra per tank then ill pay this unit off in a yr or 2

ill let you know the results

i can get a microtech cheaper then i can get the xede but i dont want to go the whole hog
and run the microtech so hope this does what i need

[joecoolmk2]

what kind of 1UZ is it?(crown or soarer)

have you had it dyno-tuned already? just wondering if there might be another before % after comparison for us here.

i'm interested in one of these, but i'm not sure if there are any capable tuners in tas for them?

[sideshow]

mines a shitty 1uz from a crown
ill try get before and after figures

[JustenGT8]

err tappets, could take a while to adjust them seeing it don't have them Not likely to the valve clearances anyways as toyota shims rarely close up

[jeffro ra28]

I'm having extractors built (car is on the hoist having them built right now). Is this something I should know about? I've not heard about pairing runners before and I want to make sure the exhaust guys do it the right way. How important is it?

While we're on it, any suggestions as to primary header pipe size? Also, I told them to build a long collector if possible. Not sure if I've got too much choice there though. Is it critical Headers By Ed claims that's it's super critical.

A bit late i know, maybe others can refer to it for there 1uz exhausts!

A four "into" one system will give best power gains but restricts the power band. Ideally for road cars with a broad power band and good mid range a 4-2-1 system is best altough it will probly reduce maximum power.

The art of exhaust tuning is to determine the length and size of the exhaust pipe for the negative wave to arrive at the cylinder during the valve overlap period.

The formula to work out the primary pipe length is:
P=850xED "divide by" RPM (-3)

RPM being the RPM which the exhaust is being tuned
ED being 180 degrees + the number of degrees the exhaust valve opens before BDC.


So i am tuning the exhaust for maximum Power at 5,500rpm.
My exhaust lobe on my wade(18rg) camshaft opens at 75.2 degress before BDC.

My ideal length for my primary pipe is 36.4 Inches.

For a more precise tune we can use this formula.
Where CC is equal to cylinder volume and P= Primary length in inches.

Inside diameter=

[V8Cressida]

The technician was reasonably happy with what he was able to put together given the extreme space constraints. They sure look good. I'm in NZ at the moment so the best I've been able to do is ring him and get them to rev it over the phone to me (I know - I'm a sad case). It sounded great! Really punchy and punctuated (from what I could tell) I'll be driving it tomorrow so we'll get a better idea of the power improvements after I dyno it again.

Feed your eyes on this snake pit!