1jz oil light, how does it work

[AeRoKaBn]

I have standard 1j oil dummy light switch connected in my 1jz mz20 but i my oil light doesnt light up at all.

I have an oil switch from an M series motor ready to swap in but just want to check before i change them around. And do i have to change to J switch with the M switch? they look exactly the same

The switch has 1 wire going to it, so does this wire have power going thru it constantly and make the oil light turn on when the switch grounds?

Is it anything like the engine light? ei can u check it to see if ur oil light globes blown with another globe, wire and 12v

[3BarSuperstar]

The switch has 1 wire going to it, so does this wire have power going thru it constantly and make the oil light turn on when the switch grounds?


Yes that's right. put a test light in it and check for power. You could have a blown globe or a earth missing from the dash. But check for power first.

[AeRoKaBn]

The switch has 1 wire going to it, so does this wire have power going thru it constantly and make the oil light turn on when the switch grounds?


Yes that's right. put a test light in it and check for power. You could have a blown globe or a earth missing from the dash. But check for power first.

thanks mate, i thought that mighta been it just helps me make a picture of the whole thing

Wilbo taught me that cool little trick (Cheers again wilbz!) for my engine light i keep the globe connected with a long enough wire to reach my battery in my glovebox n check it after a hard drive (too slack to take my dash apart n change the globe)

How bout compatability between M and J oil switches? i was told u have to swap the J one over with the M for it to work with the M dash thats true if u have a proper oil gauge but this is just a simple on or off light do i still need to swap the switches over its in a prick of a spot right between ps pump and aircon

[EldarO]

the M is a guage sender.

the JZ series is just the on/off dummy switch.

the M series sender does screw into the JZ block, but the issue arises in the fact that its a fair bit chunkier than the JZ sender, and thus fouls on the JZ Air-con compressor.

in order to fit it, you have to get a 90 degree fitting to run it parallel to the block, instead of straight out.

the general solution is to use a brass 90 degree fitting, however some people seem to have an issue trusting this setup, as the weight of the sender is a concern, that it may fatigue the fitting and cause issues.

if you found a way to relieve the fitting itself from holing the weight of the sender (using a bracket etc) this would be the ideal solution.

however i know of nobody thats either done this, or had the fitting fatigue to the point where its caused issues, so its a bit of an uncharted "land".

[AeRoKaBn]

Eldar yeah thats the case for the supras as they have an actual gauge in the dash but my dash only has an oil light so id say my 7m just had the same simple on/off switch thats on the 1j

The sender i bought the other week (off a ma61) looks identical same size and all.


but im just wondering if i have to swap them over cos like i said they look exactly the same and there just a simple on/off switch

[EldarO]

no, you shouldnt need to, it should already be wired up?

the senders all work the same way (the ones that ive seen anyway, anyone feel free to correct me)

id say your bulb is blown, if it isnt, let me know when i can come around and wire up the wire i missed.

[LeeRoy]

On/off switches dont need to be changed as far as i am aware.

Senders need to be changed though as the signal given out by one sender is often different to that of another (ie M to JZ), and the reading shown on the dash will therefore be incorrect.

[AeRoKaBn]

no, you shouldnt need to, it should already be wired up?

the senders all work the same way (the ones that ive seen anyway, anyone feel free to correct me)

id say your bulb is blown, if it isnt, let me know when i can come around and wire up the wire i missed.

hmm it may be blown but itd be kinda wierd that both my oil light and check engine light are blown unless it was something to do with when my (lack of) alternator was making everything play up, i will check the oil switch today with a test light n see how it goes otherwise....

... i did notice that there are 2 wires for oil both black and yellow. Pin 23 is labelled "7mgte level sender (US)" and pin 21 is labelled "oil light" uve wired it to pin 23 and the other day goin off hamgatans pic i wired one of the wires from speedo to pin 21, it drove good around the block but when i tried starting it later, no bingo. *shrugs*

its a mystery

[lexsmaz]

The oil light switch wire is an earth wire only, so a quick way to check the dash globe, is to earth the wire at the switch & that should bring on the light .. Hooking up a test light to the wire will not give you any feedback ..

[wilbo666]

Yep as said the sender on the engine block is simply a switch that opens when there is a certain amount of oil pressure! IF there is just an oil light (the sender is different to gauge type)

... i did notice that there are 2 wires for oil both black and yellow. Pin 23 is labelled "7mgte level sender (US)" and pin 21 is labelled "oil light" uve wired it to pin 23 and the other day goin off hamgatans pic i wired one of the wires from speedo to pin 21, it drove good around the block but when i tried starting it later, no bingo. *shrugs*

Try and avoid using 'pins' if you can it is a lot more prone to danger than tracing the wiring yourself, you don't need a wiring diagram for this...!

I would remove the dash, and use a multimeter to find the wire that goes from the Oil light blub on the dash to the glove box area on the car loom.

I'd then use a multimeter to trace the wire that comes from the JZ oil pressure switch to the internal plug on the engine loom...

I'd then connect the two wires and know without a doubt that the wiring was correct.

btw the level sender IS different to the oil light!!! You want to connect the wire to the 'oil light' one I suspect...


Also if you suspect the switch you can do the following (engine off)
>Disconnect the wire to the sender / switch and use a multimeter to measure the resistance. It should be low with no oil pressure.
>Ground the wire that goes to the sender and see if the light turns on...

To check that the bulb / fuse isn't blown you can check with a multimeter to see if you have a voltage at the wire that goes to the sender. No voltage -> blown bulb / fuse / no power for some other reason.

Cheers
Wilbo

[AeRoKaBn]

cheers guys now i know how that little fucker works!

and wilbo... ur a genius mate

[wilbo666]

cheers guys now i know how that little fucker works!

and wilbo... ur a genius mate

We aim to please!

Let us know how you go with it

Cheers
Wilbo