Doh!!!! You make it sound like i should ship my bits to YelloRolla along with a wad of cash and wait 3 months.
But that would defeat the purpose of me building it myself.........and that is to LEARN.
Oh and consider my order placed YelloRolla
Colin,
ARP does not make head studs for the 3T-GTE, which is why YelloRolla does![]()
1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
Doh!!!! You make it sound like i should ship my bits to YelloRolla along with a wad of cash and wait 3 months.
But that would defeat the purpose of me building it myself.........and that is to LEARN.
Oh and consider my order placed YelloRolla
Time to revive the 28.
You shouldn't have to wait 3 months if you keep him in the loop, He did mine in a few weeks, and it has been the most reliable one i have had.
Let him do it and save the stress, I wanted to do it myself as well, and it cost me alot more as a result.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If your not living on the edge,
Your taking up too much space!!!
the amount of times ive had ppl bring in a job that either they or "their mate" have f#*ked up is unbelievable. and yes quite often it costs more for someone to do the job themselves and then pay somebody else to fix it after they rooted it trying to prove a point.Originally Posted by SYC02T
i still don't bother building engines myself for this exact reason, id rather sit down with jase discuss what i want and how we are going to do it, then hand over some bucks and wait for my pride and joy to be finished.
he is worth every cent he charges and i have no doubts that you will get the exact result your after when you deal with him.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
If only more people's ego's would let them admit there limitations there would be allot more engines, 3T-GTE's especially that turn good numbers rather than give them a bad name.Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
It seems that once an engine gets old enough that its "cheap" to buy, people assume they are suitable for the backyard special and then complain when they break or can't pull their nana off her rocking chair. Same goes for people who assume that becasue they can weld they can fabricate their own manifolds. There is a some really shameful crap out there.
1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
Y'all kinda missed the point of my earlier comment and latched onto my ignorance of the fact that ARP do not do 3TGTE head studs. This thread is titled "3TGTE Tech" and if this is to be, as the title suggests, a tech repository for people attempting to do a decent (Not necessarily a YelloRolla quality) build than sources for parts would be an excellent addition.
This is meant to be a major learning experience for me as i was raised by a student of the "make it fit by swearing at it then finally pay someone else to do it" school of farm mechanics. (I got to be an engine hoist once (old hiace) and also spent 3-4 hours with a trimatic gbox on my chest one time)
So any "tried and true" info is what id call the best "Tech". By all reports a reliable build should always be the first aim with these motors anyways.
Oh and CBC seem to have some of the bearings for for these i just don't know how reliable they are.
Time to revive the 28.
How come ARP can tell some people that head studs dont exist for the T series yet BRD Racing in the states list them for 2T and 3Tthey should be the same for 3TGTE? Or am I mistaken? :
http://www.brdracing.com/toyota_2tc_3tc_arp.htm
Unless they are a knock off....
![]()
51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
I think (and that is unusual) that the 3TC would be different, but it would be good to know for sure.
Who has a head bolt from a 3TC? If we can measure and compare to a stock 3T GTE head bolt , then we can determine whether or not they are suitable. Otherwise, if we can get the head stud dimensions from ARP, the we can also determine their suitability.
Any other suggestions or input will be met with great appreciation.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
Neil,
If ARP do them (that is if these check out OK), then they will be able to be installed after the motor is together - no real problems.
Silli - check your pm
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
That would be good, but knowing my luckOriginally Posted by YelloRolla
![]()
RA40 3t-gte. Haltech fitted.
Power - 229hp at 17psi![]()
Toyota Nationals 2013, Easter Long Weekend, Dubbo, NSW
http://www.toyota-nationals.org.au/
The 3tc head studs are not the same as a 3tgteu. The 3tc is longer than the 3tgte. I can see if I can dig up each. I did the comparison years ago.
TE-72 (T-18) w/3tgteu fully built
Haltech e6x direct fire/sequential
ae-86 (levin) footwork
TE-71 w/1uzfe
Autronics SM4
Thank you for your valuable input there turbotoy.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
more info: As far as I know the 22r head studs ARP sells can be used on the 3tc. Back in the day I tried getting a set of 22r studs cutting and re-threading but I didn't like the results.
TE-72 (T-18) w/3tgteu fully built
Haltech e6x direct fire/sequential
ae-86 (levin) footwork
TE-71 w/1uzfe
Autronics SM4
Yes, bad results indeed. The head stud should be around 38 rockwell C, and the threads need to be rolled, not cut.Originally Posted by turbotoy
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
just wanted to know what torque values to use when swapping to studs, would it be ok to follow stock head bolts figures?
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