I think you just earth them out, I have done one in a ke35 was easy as, about to do one in my ta22 when I get my shed built,mine of the easiest to wire up and in
We're in wa are you?
I think you just earth them out, I have done one in a ke35 was easy as, about to do one in my ta22 when I get my shed built,mine of the easiest to wire up and in
We're in wa are you?
TE-72 (T-18) w/3tgteu fully built
Haltech e6x direct fire/sequential
ae-86 (levin) footwork
TE-71 w/1uzfe
Autronics SM4
Block the pressure sensor that connects to the inlet pipe just ahead of the throttle (nipple sticks out toward the firewall). thats the overboost fuel cut. diagrams here. mentions the fuel cut system at bottom of 2nd post.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tec...fo-wanted.html
edit- oh and this, diagram taken from a tt142 gt-t. the sensor marked "Pc S/W" is the fuel cut.
http://toycrazy.net/tech/pics/3tgtemissions.jpg
-Mark
E2 + E7 fan
'71 KE26 5k, '75 KE25 SR 4agte, '78 KP60 bug 4k-u, '83 KE70 SR Coupe 3tgte, '84 KE74, '84 YN57, '84 AE85.6, '86 AE82 FXGT 20v, '91 ST185, '92 SW20
I haven't decided to commit to the t3 yet but it seems a cheap alternative. How much does an appropriate garret cost?
Anyway some dummy up pics in my sig with t3/t4 turbo and t3 top mount, looks like it won't hit the hood.
Also a line up pics of the 3tgte exhaust gasket vs the t3 manifold
83 Celica GT-TR TA63 liftback w/ 3TGTE
68 Chevrolet Impala - restored lowrider on hunnid spokes
my old ride:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DmoJ...eature=related
Hi Guys
Been following this thread for over a year now, i am in South Africa and been driving a TE72 Corolla with a 3T engine, i recently bought a 3T-GTE engine but the distributor cap was broken and no rotor and to get parts here is basically impossible, i am keen on running a coil pack or dual coil pack for that matter, my question is do i leave the distributor in on the cylinder head without the cap, or should i remove the distributor, or is there a bracket i can make to close off the hole. if any one has some pictures on that regard,
Thanks for you help
Hi Delano
Don'ty know what SA import laws are like. But go to www.amayamatrading.com and search for 1985 TT 142 Corona,part number 1910188280 for cap and part number 1910488280 , you can see availability and current price. They are a sponsor of Toymods and really good to deal with. I have bought a number of genuine parts from them. also they are based in Japan.
Regards Tony
Thanks Tony much apreciated already placed the order just waiting for them to confirm stock
We always had available genuine parts from our local toyota's for 3tgte in NZ. I checked up about the cap after hearing that they were no longer available new. and same answer, no more stock ex japan.
The std ignition is rather basic and works on it's lonesome except when the knock control has it's way. There's plenty ways to upgrade it using aftermarket ecu's and ignitors.
could possibly plug the distributor hole with a frost plug. Then use a crank trigger wheel (on crank pulley or flywheel) with a missing tooth to identify tdc on a wastespark ignition system.
This weekend I checked out a friends te71 race car and he's now gone full sequential 3tgte with 2tgeu head and intake. using a stock 2tgeu distributor as a crank angle signal and added a single tooth trigger wheel to replace the weights inside the dizzy, with a sensor mount welded to the outside of diz and a hole drilled through the side to pickup on the extra trigger wheel. He's running a programmable Link G4 storm ecu though. and mercury marine coils. t3/t4 on 20psi. goes like stink too!
A more accurate way would be a trigger wheel on the actual crank so there's no chain backlash etc to affect timing. and cut off 3 of the 4 lobes in the distributor to signal tdc in a sequential ignition system.
cant fit a 2tg distributor in a 3tgte without chopping off the mounting boss for the original 3tgte distributor on the head. also need to tweak the turbo oil line to clear the 2tg dizzy base. And cant pull out the dizzy/oil pump plug from the block without either lifting the cylinder head or chopping away clearance on the dizzy mount. quite a nuisance.
-Mark
E2 + E7 fan
'71 KE26 5k, '75 KE25 SR 4agte, '78 KP60 bug 4k-u, '83 KE70 SR Coupe 3tgte, '84 KE74, '84 YN57, '84 AE85.6, '86 AE82 FXGT 20v, '91 ST185, '92 SW20
Interested in your thoughts on plugging the 3T-GTE dizzy hole when it is removed for a Crank trigger? I am about to do this and would like to know if there is any easy mods to plug the whole by using the existing dizy bolt to secure it into place without getting anything specifically machined up.
I swear I have seen this done somewhere else but for the life of me can't find any info...
Should be able to make up a plate that bolts to the dizzy hole and use gasket goo to seal it up
hay guys, i have been rebuilding a 3tgte to go into a kp61 starlet and when i got the motor it was in bits, i was hoping someone could help me fill in the missing bit of the puzzle, i need to know where all the vacuum lines ect, from the intake manifold go? any help will be appreciated, cheers, if theres anything else you need to know just ask 995455_634449403246316_89383797_n.jpg
Gday Guys,
Ive been through this full thread previously but I have not seen anyone mention stroking these motors. I have also searched on countless occasions about stroking these old girls to no avail.
Maybe I'm just searching the wrong terms?
As I'm sure we are all aware it is quite possible to stroke them given my understanding that in the Group B era the TA63 was running a 4tgte (unsure of exact difference to 3tgte being also a 1.8L?) stroked to a 2.1L with no doubt a lot of modifications, running upwards of around 600rwhp in race trim?
My biggest question is, has anyone attempted to stroke a 3tgte
If you have I would love to hear from you!
Until recently , I have been running (to my understanding) an internally stock 3tgte with standard intake, injectors and exhaust manifold.
Bolt on's:
chinese ebay internally gated t3/t4 turbo using a cnc machined adapter plate
460x300x76mm ebay intercooler
Microtech LT8s computer
GReddy profec B spec 2 boost contoller running 10psi (injectors at full duty cycle)
2 1/2" mandrel bent exhaust
Performance:
dyno result of 174rwhp
Reference to "Until recently ":
About a month ago I was in a rather big hurry to meet a mate, I was traveling in top gear with my right foot firmly planted on the accelerator, pushing beyond the 190kmh mark on my speedo when I heard ye olde detonation over my exhaust.
Upon arriving at my destination my poor old girl was running on 3 cylinders and pumping smoke out of the oil catch can. Initial belief was a blown head gasket but after further investigation I have discovered that the smoke coming out of the oil cooler is infact exhaust gas and #3 cylinder to have only 30 psi of compression. given the evidence I believe the cause to be a cracked/melted piston.
Now I find myself at an indecisive moment as to just forge the rods and pistons or go the whole hog and stroke the old girl.
So in conclusion I look forward to reading your opinions/advice/knowledge
Cheers Josh
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