3T GTE Tech

[TheToyman75]

Fidanza make an Alloy flywheel specifically for the 3T-GTE. Call your local supplier and they can get it for you.

Stock T series rods will happily swing to 8K and I know of at least 1 T series Quarter mile car that campaigned the stock rods while making 500hp. He eventually bent one not long after chasing an extra 50Hp. However, If your Rods need to be closed n honed and balanced, then you may as well spring for a set of Eagle rods. They come with ARP bolts and are so cheap they are about teh same price new as getting your old Rods prepped for the rebuild.

Becareful with ordering 3T-C pistons, you need to make sure that the valve reliefs on them are big enough when using them in a twin cam.

[jb_22]

Alternatively for your flywheel; I am using a 1G-GTE flywheel/clutch combo on my 3TG. Big 225mm clutch but one mod you will have to do is space the starter motor forward ~12mm. I just used 2 oversize nuts & longer bolts. The clutch should fit into a W55 bellhousing, but I had to die grind 1 internal web with a T50 'box that takes a 186mm clutch.

Found out the hard way about the valve reliefs on 3Tc pistons too, $250 later to have the exhaust valve reliefs milled doesn't make them automatically the cheapest option - make sure you check.

Why wouldn't you want a light flywheel in a 3T-GTE?

[toyota1515]

Light flywheels tend to rob momemtum on these T engines making them all revs no torke good for a very light racecar such as open wheel or circle track but in the street you pay the price i been there before it is terrible and anoying making the car fell on its face.

[toyota1515]

If you use 3tc pistons in a 3tgte make sure you use the dished pistons that dont go protrude out of the deck line and you shouldnt have a valve to piston problem as long as you go turbo with it, but it is always good thing to double check just in case as long as you have .100 of an inch of clearance betwine the valve and piston on its closest point together while in timing you are ok. And as you guys state, 2-3-4tg/te engines have biger diameter valves, so make the acording modification for that if necesary.

[Ritch]

Tanks,
In my first, i had a race clutch with OEM flywheel, after 600km, the flywheel was machined by the clutch.
Where is possible to find the 3TGTE workshop manual?

[TheToyman75]

Light flywheels are a personal choice.

The lighter the flywheel the faster you can increase rpm under acceleration. BUT the lighter the flywheel the less weight to maintain engine RPM on gearshift.

It also reduces your engine braking for the same reason.

[GT1978]

As far as the manual for a 3TGTE goes I believe it was only published in japanese and is normally found stored between the hens teeth and rocking horse sh1t. I searched for many years on Yahoo Japan and the closest I can was a manual for a TA64 carina with an engine section which was also in japanese. I have yet to have time to look at how much detail is provided and decifer any of the japanese into english though.

Glen

[TheToyman75]

I have the workshop manual for the 3T-GTE but as mentioned it is in japanese. An easier reference for most of the info you need is to use the 2T-G manual which comes in English

[jb_22]

Personally I'd take a light flywheel over OEM weight anyday. removing 1kg of flywheel weight rotating at engine speed is something equivalent to removing 20+kg of dead weight when accelerating in 1st gear = cheap weight reduction. As for maintaining engine speed during shifts... shift faster

[J-M kujala]

i like the light flywheel...

3TC pistons be sure valve relief big enough..

all wiseco K547M87-88-89 Flat top piston kits got valve relief big enough to 2TG / 3TGTE valves. they will hit to each other before piston (added more overlap).. also there need to be carefull when installing cam, you can turn then cam to much or install them to a little wrong position before adjusting it correct, that can bendt valves because hit piston or valves hit to each other... also lift of and on that head without camshafts installed, there is some valve open with cam on and those valves can hit to a block or somewhere else when moving head around..

[NME308]

Vote 1 for big heavy flywheel for me! Need all the stored energy I can get when demanding forward motion from dead standstill with sticky rubber on board!

To borrow someone elses experiment - try this one...
1) If you are thinking of purchasing a new lightweight flywheel.
With the stock flywheel still in place ask a friend to drive your car, preferebly someone who has driven your car before. This time tell them you have installed a new lightweight flywheel and the performance is noticeable better and the car revs up insanely fast now. I'll bet they come back confirming all your stories! Now tell them it is still the stock flywheel and take note most of the perceived benefits of said light flywheel are just hype.

2)If you already have a fantastic lightweight flywheel.
Perform the opposite experiment of having your friend drive the car with said lightweight flywheel in place. Tell them of course you have installed a heavy stock flywheel and feeling the disappointing drop in acceleration and performance. Once again they'll most likely come back commiserating with you.

Who out there has genuinly dropped from a 13 second quarter mile to a 12 second quarter mile elapsed time purely by installing a lightweight flywheel? And if so was it genuinly just the flywheel or was a nice new clutch installed to replace some old slipping dog as well???

No questions a proper racing flywheel will be a safety investment but for my purposes it will be a heavy one thank you!

Of course there is benefit to light flywheels for particular applicatons but stop/start street driving and drag racing are not on that list!

Cheers,
Jason

[toyota1515]

You buddy, hit that nail right in the head!
Enough said!

[TheToyman75]

The pros and cons of heavy vs Light flywheels has divided the partially informed for as long as there have been people building engines. SO before you decide I encourage you to do your own research and make your own choices.

Google it, do your own math and like NME308, make sure your choice reflects how YOU use your car.

Some links to get you started

http://www.racetep.com/flywheel.html

http://www.pumaracing.co.uk/FLYWHEEL.htm

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywhee...heel_works.htm

And yes I am personally on the "I prefer lighter flywheels (but within reason) side of the fence"

[jb_22]

The main drawcard for me going to a lightened 1G flywheel was the old 186mm clutch was replaced with a 225mm one. But what I found I really like about the light flywheel is how quick the revs come up when rev-matching on downshift. Makes the car feel so much more sportier to drive, regardless of any actual increase in performance.

[J-M kujala]

small engine maybe turboed and metallic clutch... way more easyer to have not so lightweight fly when cruising in the city.... big or good torgue engine with organic disc and light fly is not needed that heavy fly, also 1st gear ratio means a lot... stock or a littlebit lighter than stock is always good choise, a working one.

but sometimes when youre engine is good revving etc, in the downshift in a track and hard cornering it feels better... also its total weight of a car..

im sure in 1/4 Mile that do not make difference more than weight add to car.

with clutchless racing gearboxes is not recommended to use heavy Flywheels, when shifting without clutch that transmission had to always kill inertia of flywheel. so the tranny get longer and easyer life with lighter fly..


some one can maybe write a book how choose flywheel.... there is so much opinions etc where and how and what kind of a combination its going to use.