running in an engine, conflicting information

[allencr]

i was wondering the same thing....
kinda a catch 22....

...EXACTLY...

,but there's a big difference between 2,500rpm sitting there in netural with the cooling system at ambient, and at 2500rpm abusing it in 5th at 90C(the average coolant output temp) & hot spots that are way above that, generating heat & pressure that'll wear in the rings(and a piston that doesn't need it) a lot more then I think your engine would like.

[skiddz]

hey guys all good info, got another question, i went into super crap cos i saw in their cattledog that they have 5L of valvoline XLD *whatever* (classic i think) for $9 had a look at the bottle and label but couldnt find anything telling me its synth/semi synth/mineral/made from mountain goat shit. This was the same as many others hpr30 as someone mentioned before is apparently mineral. so could one assume that if it doesnt say synthetic that it is indeed mineral?

note i already have a bottle of pentrite running in oil which is all mineral

[30psi 4agte]

that XLD stuff is def mineral bud

"straight from the ground and into your engine"

[skiddz]

thanks man, i didnt know whether is was safe to assume that it was or not

+ rep for all

[schnitzel]

hey guys all good info, got another question, i went into super crap cos i saw in their cattledog that they have 5L of valvoline XLD *whatever* (classic i think) for $9 had a look at the bottle and label but couldnt find anything telling me its synth/semi synth/mineral/made from mountain goat shit. This was the same as many others hpr30 as someone mentioned before is apparently mineral. so could one assume that if it doesnt say synthetic that it is indeed mineral?

note i already have a bottle of pentrite running in oil which is all mineral

Hate to burst some peoples bubble , but synthetic oils are still mineral based the semi sythetic and synthetic is a marketing ploy. The main difference between normal and synthetic is the amount of refining and the number of synthetic or semi synthetic additives in the MINERAL based oil.
Synthetic oils are much more refined and more uniform oil, hence the inceased cost but they are still mineral based.
XLD is a bottom of the range old style oil, low in additves but high in detergents, not particularly suited to anything post 1986. When looking at oils look for the API rating S is for spark enngines ie petrol, c is for compression(diesel) hence API SF is old style petrol rated oil, most nowadays require api-sl and in some cases api -sm. Then your viscosity rating comes in. Nowadays the oil is getting very specific to the car in order to meet emissions and cooling requirements. Lubrication is now only 50% of an oils function in a road car.

[o_man_ra23]

Actually Skiddy, its made of mountain goat shit "you know what I mean??"

Big_T... fair question. allencr has answered it well, but left out one vital point. The revs it sits at needs to be high enough to keep the oil at full pressure (usually 60psi) to keep the cam lobes coated (from the oil spurting out the cam carriers onto the buckets) with lots of oil... keeping them cool and increasing their surface hardness.

[toddw]

When i run in my engines .......I try to keep bost to a minimum ( which is 16-19 psi for my setup)--- basicly keep it as low as possible.... But in saying that boost will actually help the rings push out into the bore and bed in.

Keep the revs to a max of 4500.
I use a static viscosity running in oil also.....but a cheap mineral oil will suffice..

I try to find a decent hill....as it will provide some load on the way up.
On the way down i usually get up a bit of speed and say 70kph then down change to second and decelerate once the car has slowed abit speed back up in second and back off again. (do this a few times )
This type of engine acceleration & deceleration also throws out the rings into the bore helping the bedding process..
NOTE: Dont down change like your on a race track as over reving the engine is no good for the bearings in its early life


Keeping the engine on fast idle and varying the revs for the first few minutes is a must.

P.S BRETT : not having a turbo plummed up is bad for the turbo.

I have built many engines over the years and as stated above is the way I do it. the only addition is NEVER let them idle for an extended period on inital start up. i start it, check the timing, check for leaks and drive it up that big hill. i used to work at a workshop years ago with a guy who would let them idle for 30 minutes and he always had issues with oil usage and rings bedding in on his engines.Hope this helps as it has proved me well for countless engines.

Cheers

[love ke70]

but, whats more important, cams or engine?

[blacktop]

but, whats more important, cams or engine?

I would think Engine, cams if they even have a problem after running in can always be replaced but if you have problems with your engine it becomes a bit more expensive.

[o_man_ra23]

Cams can cause engine problems... Its probably best to run in your engine on old cams first, then replace the cams

[love ke70]

owen probably is on the money. blacktopspirit, it all depends how rare the cams are

[ollie83]

Thread revival is probably an understatement, but here goes anyway.
I have been doing a bit reading into this as i prepare for my 4age rebuild. Just wanted to get some pointers for the initial startup procedure. I have some worries about what exactly to do after starting. Should i start it, check all is running well, not leaks etc then go for a drive without shutting down, or startup, run for a short period, turn off, check and then start again and drive?

[river]

Hi,

The big ones the japs are building have ladders cast into the blocks to climb up when they are positioning the big end bearings during assembly

That's nothing, the massive one's the Russians built for their underground bunkers (in case the world was destroyed in a nuclear war) were so large they had train tracks and huge rail-way cranes that move over the engine to service it. The engines are so vast that the support people take the train from one end of the engine to the other for servicing it.

seeyuzz
river

[Joshstix]

It kind of depends on what has been done to the engine. But to give you and indication last time I did this I started the engine and constantly varied the revs between idle and ~2500rpm with no load to bed in the billet cams. Then I shut it down and gave it an oil change. Then drove it pretty hard, basically straight to Toyotafest just in time to get setup. Then that week it went on the dyno for a tune and got another oil change as soon as it got home. Run in complete as far as I'm concerned.

If it wasn't for the cams then I'd have just idled it until it got up to temp then dropped the oil out.

I'm a fan of plenty of oil changes with a new engine, oils cheap compared to the damage a bit of machining swarf or other shit going through the bearings will cost.

[river]

Hi,

Thread revival is probably an understatement, but here goes anyway.
I have been doing a bit reading into this as i prepare for my 4age rebuild. Just wanted to get some pointers for the initial startup procedure. I have some worries about what exactly to do after starting. Should i start it, check all is running well, not leaks etc then go for a drive without shutting down, or startup, run for a short period, turn off, check and then start again and drive?

Start her up and give her a fast idle and have a look about to make sure she's not dropping oil, make sure the engine sounds good and no nasty sounds, and ensure oil pressure looks good.

Don't over rev.. but let her go up and down to about 3-4k and back to idle a few times until it warms up and make sure the thermo kicks in and the operating temp holds still.

Have another check to make sure no oil or whatever has dropped onto the ground. If looks okay then take her for a drive.

seeyuzz
river