running in an engine, conflicting information

[o_man_ra23]

whats the opinion on running in a boosted engine? run as low boost as possible?

Ditto... I havent had experience with running in boosted engines, but will soon. Or will the limited revs limit the boost (theoretically) enough to not worry??

[brett_celicacoupe]

could always not plumb the turbo into the inlet and set rev limit to 3800rpm

[roadsailing]

you NEED to generate cylinder pressure to get the rings to bed in, thats how they work!

i'd guess limit revs, but treat it the same pretty much. just dont thrash it (and good luck keeping the revs down if it is a big turbo)

[brett_celicacoupe]

thats what configurable rev limits were designed for

[30psi 4agte]

When i run in my engines .......I try to keep bost to a minimum ( which is 16-19 psi for my setup)--- basicly keep it as low as possible.... But in saying that boost will actually help the rings push out into the bore and bed in.

Keep the revs to a max of 4500.
I use a static viscosity running in oil also.....but a cheap mineral oil will suffice..

I try to find a decent hill....as it will provide some load on the way up.
On the way down i usually get up a bit of speed and say 70kph then down change to second and decelerate once the car has slowed abit speed back up in second and back off again. (do this a few times )
This type of engine acceleration & deceleration also throws out the rings into the bore helping the bedding process..
NOTE: Dont down change like your on a race track as over reving the engine is no good for the bearings in its early life


Keeping the engine on fast idle and varying the revs for the first few minutes is a must.

P.S BRETT : not having a turbo plummed up is bad for the turbo.

[MRMOPARMAN]

only 1 hour of "running in" with non-synthetic oil and then you went to semi-synthetic? hows the compression?

from what i have read the rings havent fully bedded untill about the 4-500km mark?

actually i went to a fully synthetic 0-40w oil.

comps great, if it wasnt for a dud fuel system im prefectly confident it would lasted a 1hr flat out stint at the winton 6hr.

i ran it in the same way as one of the top V8 supercar teams run in their engines. worked a treat i should note my house mate is an engine builder at said supercar team, who also happens to race a 1.6l hydroplane boat (4age). when he built that engine (back to standard) he ran it in the same way, and he hasnt touched the engine apart from maintanence in 6 seasons.

[turbo ke20]

this works out sweet, coz i get my new engine next week so thanks for the good info.

[craigsimon]

this sounds logical to me

Power Seating
After the motor has been brought to working temperature, it should be driven off, short shifting through the gears until you are in top gear. Drop the speed down to the lowest it will reasonably pull away in top gear. Then accelerate hard for a few seconds and then snap shut the throttle and coast for a few seconds. Do this fifteen times as a minimum. Accelerating hard, but only using low revs, pushes the rings hard onto the bores. By snapping shut the throttle, oil is dragged up to wash the bores clean. Keeping the revs low will eliminate the chance of glazing the bores.
Running-In
Now the motor needs to be run in for at least two hours. You must not use more than 80% of the engine revs. Vary the speed, short shift, and do not hold it at constant revs. The engine is supplied from the factory with mineral oil for running-in purposes.

Craig

I should add that this is for race engines that recommend rebuild every 30 hours of racing so running in period should be longer for road use

[clubagreenie]

Now you need a suitable stretch of road to do this on.

I've always used the no frills oil, when I was at rover we had the oil checked at 500k change intervals and they were finding metal up to 4000k, admittedly small amounts by comparison to the first 2500k but by 5000 it was virtually gone.

Run in method was on engine dyno pretty much as above, oil at 100k intervals to 1000k then every 1000 to 5000k.

(K = kilometers not kelvin)

[289hilux]

hi everybody ([crowd]hi dr. nick[/crowd])

i have searched but search engine = ghey and im a search retard.

having rebuilt my 20v and still in the process of putting it back together i thought i would look into running in proceedures, but there is so much conflicting information

This guy recons you flog the bejeesus outta it

these guys as well as others recon let it idle high for 20 mins turn it off then drive normally for 500k's then a bit harder after oil change

my mechanic told me let it warm up with a high idle, then drive it no more than 50% throttle up to bout 100-110 km/h then deccelerate to 80 or so then gently back up to 100 or so then after about 50k's drive it a bit harder with varying throttle and a bit of hard acceleration and decceleratio

im confused by this, which is a better method? the car is going to be daily/weekend fun not chasing peak HP really

cheers
luke

1st question is who built the engine and do you trust it to be rite. Eg clearances and tolerances`s.

1st thing to do run the cams in 20 @ 2500 rpm
2nd change oil and filter
3rd check and recheck timing, leak`s, oil,water, temps ,etc
4th drive the car as most other have described load up the rings in quick successions.
most import thing in my book is not to let it edle for too long. as this allows the rings to run dry (lower oil pressure @ idle) this will remove the hone mark`s from the bore and the rings wont turn on the pistons and you will end up with score marks in the bore.

5th drive it sensible but hard. I have built a few over the years from Mazda TC 1300 to 4.71 blown 401 Windsor of the drags. When ever we freshen up for the next meet it was only a static rev for 10- 15 min. The a couple of medium runs then full tilt from then never had a issue .

It all come down to who and how and with what the engine was put together with.

You only get what you paid for.
Hope this helps....
289hilux

[o_man_ra23]

1st question is who built the engine and do you trust it to be rite. Eg clearances and tolerances`s.

Skiddy will crap himself when it hits 3000rpm anyways, so it wont matter

This is really a question you have to ask BEFORE you get the engine built, not when its being put back together, so I really dont think its relevant to this post.

Other than that, good post, step one is not necessary if you arent using brand new or freshly reground cams (for all you kiddies out there who were wondering).

Oh, and you can get more than what you pay for... if your either a) a machinist, or b) good friends with a machinist (as with my case )

[skiddz]

1st question is who built the engine and do you trust it to be rite. Eg clearances and tolerances`s.

i did and everything is within tollerances

[o_man_ra23]

i did and everything is within tollerances

Ill give odds of 2:1 that it will blow before 40,000 kms Anyone going to wager a fifty on that??

[skiddz]

oi! plastigauge doesnt lie, everything is sweet as i may however have cooling issues only have the stock but triple cored rad.

[o_man_ra23]

By the time this thing starts up, all those clearances would have gone due to corrosion buildup

Gee your easy to get a bite from today Skiddy