1jz hydro fan has issues

[pete05]

Ok guys have been messing around with trying to get the hydro fan running on my 1j. I have most of the control box hooked up but its not playing nice with me!
It just wants to run flat out all the time. i have the power, solnoid, temp sensor and rpm hooked up anyone have any ideas why it would go full power all the time even from cold.
I have tested the sensor and it read 4.5k which is about the same as another one i tested.
any ideas would be good.

cheers
Pete

[unclewal]

have you tested the temp sensor? From what i have read they will run flat out if there is fault, either in the temp sensor or solenoid. Built as a fail safe so if something does shit your car doesnt over heat. Have you checked to see if these are in good working order. Sorry i couldnt be of any more (any) help.

[pete05]

I have tested the sensor and it read 4.5k which is about the same as another one i tested.
any ideas would be good.

cheers
Pete

i think its the correct reading for the sensor

[manny]

Unplug the wiring to the solenoid and the fan should run at the lowest speed - if it still goes flat out, the solenoid is probably stuck/seized in the flat out position.

[pete05]

The solenoid is fine, been driving it around on the slow speed for the last 6 months. The car never gets hot but now with summer and having air con running i can see it will be a problem.

Pete

[3sgte]

Is there an A/C input for the control box?

[Xistant]

are you sure your temp sensor wires are round the right way? mine were not and it ran full load constantly, switched them around and it works with temp.

[pete05]

it has an input from the a/c amp on the controller but tyhe x73 a/c amp doesnt have a line out for this purpose.

I have tried the temp sender in both wiring configs and it make no difference

[manny]

I haven't got my AC/Cool reference hooked up to pin 7 yet or IDL to Pin 5 for that matter, but it does still vary in speed.
You confirmed your solenoid and temperature sensor is OK, so if your Tacho (Pin 6), Temp (Pins 9&10), Solenoid (Pins 2 & 3), Ground (Pin 4) and Ignition (Pin 1) wiring is confirmed good, I'd be leaning towards it being a JZS147 vs JZA70 controller compatability issue.

[pete05]

As discussed will call and set up a time with you, i will have it all ready to go, hopefully can sort out a time for on my way home

[cambelt]

The only issue i can think of if you were using a uzz30 fan ecu as the rpm input will be diff from the other two. 8 verse 6 CYL .
Manny do you still think that cool input is for when the A/C is on . If i turn my air on the radiator temp must rise and the fan temp sensor picks this up and speeds up the fan no problem , and on a hot day the fan works very hard you can here it when driving at 60 klm .
I must add that even on a 35 deg day with my A/C on max the water temp stays perfect.
Dave

[pete05]

definately a jzs147 unit.

[manny]

Dave
On the UZZ30/31/32 / JZZ30/31 Soarers the "Cool" Pin 7 signal does go to a pin on the AC controller. I presume it's the same on the JZS147 and JZA70 based on the same naming convention.

We spent 3 hours of back to back runs on the dyno mapping the Power FC from scratch for the new engine/turbos last week and it never went above 91 degrees whereas it needed regular pauses of 10-15 mins every 10-20 mins to keep temps under 100 previously on the dyno with the viscous fan!

I actually finished hooking up IDL and COOL this morning, so I've now got all signals connected. Working fine but only time will tell how well. Wish there was a simple way of measuring rpm of the fan....

[cambelt]

Yes that hydro fan certainly pulls some air , Its due to the pitch of the blades not rpm .
Can you tell me what the cool pin does manny , ie is it 12 v with the air con on or diff . I dont think its a strange pwm signal like the solonoid . my dmm only registed a few volts across the solonoid with the car running .
Dave

[manny]

Dave
Cool (pin 7) is +12V with AC on and 0V under all other measured conditions.