Improved prod. race car

[Fish]

roadrunner i stand corrected.

i thought he updated to LM.
there was talk about it early on in the year about how quick the bloody thing is

[The Real Roadrunner]

roadrunner i stand corrected.you should sit (its easier on the legs)

i thought he updated to LM.
there was talk about it early on in the year about how quick the bloody thing is

there were advantages to keeping it as an early, the only thing that hurts you is that your meant to run 60 profile tyres, but since they couldn't supply them this year all the early's in nsw ran with 50s or 55s

takia, afaik his was the last car that you could chose which catagory then they put a firm date on the changeover.

his car is quick but ive got to hand it to him coz he can steer Fn well, i think if somebody else just jumped in either car they would have a hard time getting them around a track as quick as him.

i still believe if i was going to built an IPRA car i would build another AE71, they are light, easy to get parts, handle well when setup correctly and with the technology going into restrictors and turbos these days you can still get an easy 200rwkw and have torque applenty down low.

have a look at the therapy masters corolla and tell me it doesnt have uber grunt!

cheers
linden

[abently]

Suspension is the key here guys..........

The Forced induction guys running semi-independent rear suspensions have got traction issues with about 1100Kg race weight.... But yes, read the rules if you really want to be in the top 5.

[takai]

Suspension is the key here guys..........

The Forced induction guys running semi-independent rear suspensions have got traction issues with about 1100Kg race weight.... But yes, read the rules if you really want to be in the top 5.

None of the FI guys over here running live axles and leaf springs have significant issues with a race weight of around 900kg. Well no more significant than pumping 350hp out anyway.

[Fish]

hmm try to catch adam allan.......

[takai]

Hell, try and catch a lot of those boys. James Sutton is putting down some serious lap times in a car the width of a matchbox.

[merc-blue]

Sorry if i offended with the comment about not knowing much about motorsport, just the way your post was structured made me think that way

I would stay with a live axel the only issue you may have is axel tramp which can be eliminated with proper suspention setup,
IRS rear ends get tricky, dont worry about wheel alighnment issues on live axel, we have live axel rears with a few degrees of camber and toe

Cage design will be important, and you may see your self spending 10-20K on a proper ChroMo cage.

I have already read alot of bullshit in this thread.
I will have a refresh read of the rules next week and come up with what i would call the ultimate toyota package, but i can see a good 3SGTE KE, with alot of well thought out bracing,

[abently]

None of the FI guys over here running live axles and leaf springs have significant issues with a race weight of around 900kg. Well no more significant than pumping 350hp out anyway.

So your trying to tell me that they can't spin the wheels in 2nd or 3rd gear if they push too fast out of a corner ? Because I find that hard to believe....

[oldcorollas]

you can do that with a 40hp corolla.. if you try...
depends on driving skill... perhaps pushing too hard is the problem

what exactly are you saying is the problem? geometry changes? uncontrolled movement?

[merc-blue]

abently,
Live axel would provide a better setup IMO, as far as providing traction both a live axel and IRS rear end will each have there own benefits,
But with any driver skill and good setup wheel spin will be kept to a minimum

[The Real Roadrunner]

So your trying to tell me that they can't spin the wheels in 2nd or 3rd gear if they push too fast out of a corner ? Because I find that hard to believe....

maybe hes trying to tell you that when there is a decent driver behind the wheel throttle control isnt a problem.

every suspension setup has its pros and cons but its all about optimising the overall package. ie: a rearend that hooks up 100% in a straight line wont be as good in the turns and vice versa.

merc-blue, to much to read but can you expand on which parts are bullshit, this thread is afterall about ppl's opinions.

cheers
linden

[gianttomato]

Steve, what about a 140 series Corona?

[abently]

you can do that with a 40hp corolla.. if you try...
depends on driving skill... perhaps pushing too hard is the problem

what exactly are you saying is the problem? geometry changes? uncontrolled movement?

Yes geometry changes are the issue along with the restrictor system dictating plenty of under the curve area....... If guys are spending $100K then it probably would be wiser to just Turbo/Supercharge an Elise, have your fun and still get 80% resale back on it after a year.

[dave368]

There does seem to be a fair bit of misconception in this thread. The correct restrictor size is 36.0mm which must be more more than 50mm from the turbine blade and a minimum of 3mm long. The packaging of the restrictor is the same as the FIA specs for rally cars with the except of the hole size. Multiple supercharging devices are only allowed on cars that came with it orginally and they must be of the same type (i.e. twin turbo from the factory must be two turbos, NOT a supercharger and a turbo). Twin setups need to run a 27mm restrictor.

As others have stated, have a good read of the rules, go out and see what others are doing (so you don't make the same mistakes as them :-)) and make your mind up from there. Any production car is going to be a compromise, so think about what you are allowed to change to see if you can overcome its limitations.

There was a comment about my car (Therapy Masters KE25 Corolla with a 3sgte) making uber grunt. Thanks for the compliment but we're making the same peak HP that we were 2 years ago. We have simply reduced the losses, driven the car harder and made more area under the curve by better tuning. You will find with a restricted turbo car, the gearing is one of the most important things to get right otherwise you light up the tyres all of the time. We get peak HP at around 4000rpm and it drops off (due to the restrictor) at about 6000rpm, so you have to drive the car on the torque.

Everyone missed the most important resource available as well, the Improved Production Forum at http://www.techmasters.com.au/forum (plug, plug...it is my site afterall ). There is lots of discussion around this very topic at the moment.

Happy to help out with stuff like this, but at the end of the day it is your choice and you may want to make it purely on the fact that you love a particular car and have always wanted to race it. Best of luck to you and hope to see you at the track soon.

[strat]

yo guys are crazy!!! talking about spending over 100k is just nuts. i built my shit box RA40 3sgte for ip for under 20k and is now doing 1.18 at mallala (first year on track) Tony Wallas's car 808 (bp18t) nothing special at all and holds lap record at sandown and mallala this is a very old sad car that has been around scince noah. you dont need a engineering masterpeice to be quick in ip, just some skill and common sense. i dont see the big deal build a car you want and drive the tits off it!