Improved prod. race car

[The Real Roadrunner]

its loftus' car and its been around for ages. 20v in an ep91 built to a very tight budget.

cheers
linden

[timbosaurus]

Speaking of budget builds, it reminds me of an "Autosalon Street car of the year" (mmm... embarrasing) article I was reading.

There were 10sec skylines, Jodi's 500+rwkw Supra, wrx's, s15, DC5 etc etc... and the car that won was a late 90's Lotus Elise simply built with the old clunker rover motor swapped for a supercharged K20A!!!

This thing looked stock, "only" had around 140rwkw, but was lapping wakefield in 1:06's!!!!!

I can't get the thought out of my head to sell out of first gen crap, and do the same but with a N/A beams motor instead of the supra-charged Hon-duh. If Glen's race 3S beams can put out 170RWKW, surely a 150 streetable rwkw package would be acheivable!!!

[wombat]

just make sure you are careful with your choice
In Improved Production you are not allowed to change alot of things.
eg you can't change suspension type and mounting points at all. so if you had leaf rear ene then you can't change to coil overs. TA22 coil with shock seperate you can change the mounting so you may not even be able to run coil overs either.

Engines be carefull as it can't have more cylinders, not sure about capacity and it has to come fromt he same manufacturor.

Just research alot cos the are very strick on what you CAN'T do
check out the Cams website (www.camsmanual.com.au) go into the online cams manual and download the section for improved production and have a read. its under catergory 3 Touring cars (link http://www.camsmanual.com.au/3category.asp)
then check out IPRA as they may have some additional regs for the catergory.
also find someone whos done it you can refer to all the time...which I guess you are already doing by posting on here.

and as Merc-Bule said if you wanna win you may have to steer away from toyota, but if your in for some fun then go with what you like.

most of all good luck

[crostek]

I'm parting out a old IPR car at the moment a bit on the heavy side at 980Kg compaired to the KE70 I just got, all your parts will just about bolt in

Just read the rules and the car would need weight added to make the over 3000cc class as you are running a turbo 2.4 x the factor of 1.7?

[Howieau]

I cant recommend any specifics as far as chassis choice or such, but an engine to keep in mind would be the Toyota 3SGTE. 2.0L 4 cylinder Turbo which could be mounted north-south, which wouldn't take too much work at all to reach 300hp. Also look into the Toyota 4AGE which is a 1.8L 4 cylinder. Both having alot of potential.

[jezza323]

if you go 2.4L you will be in the overs class with all the rotaries, you will have a hard time competing at the pointy end, these cars have been around a while and have got very good setups.

also unless you want to suffer the weight penalty make sure you stick with an early model car (pre 86)

id stick with an under 2.0L car if i were you, but whatever you do, make sure you read the rules thoroughly before you get too carried away

[merc-blue]

GUYS HOLD UP!
The best way to build a IPRA car is to read the rules, screw whats light or what it has in it.
There are lots of odditites and loop holes bassed on year of manufactorer, weight penalties etc, it can serve you much better to read all the rules and class specs and from that sit down and work out exactly what to start from.

Dont be a goose and buy a car and do a huge build on it bassed ont the fact you can afford it because you could well rock up to the track having spent all this money and get dominated.

Dont worry about buying the lightest shell you can, if your budget is no object than building it to a good spec will mean it will be underweight anyway, from what i read of your post you know little about motor racing. do your reading than start.

You can easilty throw over 100K int a IPRA car and not get very far

[wombat]

Use the year and read the rules. You may keep in mind that you want a toyota car. But again you'll need to read the rules to pick the best. and also 9 times out of 10 the IPRA guys will force you to run a 35 or 38mm restrictor plate on turbo engines. which limits the turbo potential. you can still get good power, but because of this you may not reach the numbers you want. Also HP/KW's aren't what you want for circuit racing. Look at Torque and your power band. As we al know HP/KW's comes the torque, but still tune and develop your engine to have peak torque. last thing you need is a 300hp engine that has less torque than a 200hp engine, and it's power band is up past 8,000rpm till 9,500rpm...that won't help you get out of a corner at all.

But honestly Merc-Blue and I probably can't say anything else but read the rules, and then start narrowing you choice down from there.

P.S
Howieau a 4age is 1.6 not 1.8 unless you stroke it.

[1JZ-Rolla]

from what i read of your post you know little about motor racing.

haha I think you'll find that Crownman has seen more than the occasional lap or two of a race circuit

[charged]

Best advice I can give you is buy a built IPRA car, dont build I one if its your first car. A good competitive car can be bought for mid 20's. To try and build a car from scratch will cost twice as much. We run 4 ip cars in SA ,2 U2L cars ke30 and ke55 with 3sgte's and 2 U2L car ke20 and ke25 with 20valves. Im building mine at the moment and the costs can blow out trust me

Originally posted by crownman

at the moment money no object

IS200 with a 3sgte in it

Heres a link to our website
http://sharperto.com.au/

Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner Quote:




that last time out at the creek got pwned by a (homebuilt) turbo starlet. (and from memory the same car did the same lap times as rx7s in N/A form)

cheers
linden

Is dave running the starlet in overs next year ????

[IN 05 NT]

, from what i read of your post you know little about motor racing. do your reading than start.

haahaha i can assure that steve is a well informed racer mate!, always see him out at any track day i go to, and see him towing his car every other weekend,

my guess is hes been racing for 30 + years,

blake

[The Real Roadrunner]

Is dave running the starlet in overs next year ????

AFAIK yes coz BMS needs a break.

cheers
linden

[Fish]

the starlet is N/A........

and i he can not do it. the starlet is a late model car not a Early model car.


Could be wrong though.

turbo cars must run a 36mm restrictor. Irs are allowed to make there own arms?(IIrc) you can move suspension points by up to 75mm radially.

thats a basic idea. If you go late model make sure you chose one that has from factory the engine you want to as standard or an option or be prepared to slugged with weight penatly.

thats right dave ran the skyline at the nationals.

[The Real Roadrunner]

yes dave did run the skyline and broke pretty much every lap record in it.

and yes you are wrong, daves starlet is a late by year but he was the last person to be able to logbook it as an early (back then it was dependant on what rules the car was built to) and i think you will find there is alot more to that tough little thing than he would lead you to believe. but its all within the rules.

cheers
linden

[takai]

Daves is logbooked as an early as that model starlet bridged the EM LM gap, so you can logbook it as either.
Suspension points may be moved up to 50mm radially from memory.

Another consideration is parts availability, especially for the shell. Which is why i wouldnt be going for a KE11 or something that old. KE20s are hardish to get parts for. And i sure as hell wouldnt build another AE86, takumi tax on panels means that it took me just under a year to find a bonnet for less than $500. You have to use standard panels (i.e. not FG/CF) and most people only replace theirs for FG/CF when they bust the original.

Will write more later.