The Spray Painting Thread

[Steve M]

hosking,
I think you can get this Isolator stuff that allows you to paint 2-pac over the top of acrylic, but other than trusting that stuf, no, acrylic is not compatible with 2-pac.

[skiddz]

That looks great in those pics, how did you get that effect?

60L bin filled with water, about 3 tablespoons of borax*, to break up the surface tension (dont really need to borax your water the effect without the borax has more segregated colours and you dont get sections that vary the colour intensity....) then coat object with a base colour, usually a lighter colour, let dry for long time, blue tack up any holes that you dont want water in then dunk the mofo in clear any remaining paint on the surface away with the courier mail (cos its not good for much else) pull out and hang up to dry, gotta clear coat cos it will be uneven. i did my gf's guitar like this i overcame the enamel acrylic barrier slightly, i dusted the swirled guitar so the acrylic wouldnt form a single skin rather 11ty billion small ones did that over and over then gave a thick coat or 3 however some of the thinners came through and slightly wrinkled in places, this was seen in the colour more so than the clear

*dont do it with kids or dogs around it will kill them

[ian]

is acrylic a good base coat for 2 pack i understand that acrylic needs to dry throughly for at least a month before 2pac will stick to it. so say if i rubbed my car back with 800 grit wet and dry(keeping in mind i sprayed it in acrylic a good 8 months ago) and sprayed two pack over it would it work? or would it just look crap and be a waste of time ?

cheers luke

hi
you can 2pac over acrylic
rub it back then give it 3 LIGHT coats of an isolator primer sealer let it dry between coats about 10 min should do it then prime it with a good 2pac undrcoat after that it should all go well as long as you dont put it on too thick too soon
also FYI you can put 2pac hardener in enamel paint it helps it dry quicker , ideal for under body or chassis
ian

[hosking1991]

cheers for the info guys +rep

as for the 2pac respray(wasnt as simple as i thought ) id rather just touch up the acrylic and drive it around for a few years then buy a jzz30 soarer

[love ke70]

hey guys, making a start on doing my ke70.

got all my panels sussed, only gonna have 1 serious ding to fix up, so im pretty happy, and just a few others that will take a skim of nikki.

should only take me a year or 2 to finish.

first of all, to get started, i have a air powered orbital sander from the last ke70 i did (this to this to this) that paint job was acrylic and those pictures are after 3 days and god knows how many sheets of 1200wet and dry to remove the mass amounts of orange peel (dad ended up painting it, as he wanted it out of the shed and we needed it on the road sooner rather than later and i wasnt getting the time. i did the rest though including all sanding the sanding back of orange peel occured about 4 months after the paint, so it was nice and hard

so, should i sand or should i strip? im going to bare metal, for my own good reasons, i wont be changing my mind. so whats the better option? is there a coating on the panels to help ward off rust that will be removed if i sand?

on the gun front, i have a STAR S-106 gravity feed gun with a 2mm nozzle. this was used for all painting on the afore mentioned ke70.
from my reading the 2mm nozzle is too big though?

i also have a rip off of a S770 from trade tools that was 50 bucks.
not sure on nozzle size.

is the star gun gonna be good if i get some different nozzle sizes? and im gonna ask a big newb question here, which bit is the nozzle? (no, this isnt a where-does-the-paint-come-out type question) what im asking is you have the bit that screws off easy as, and then you have the bit the paint comes out of, which the tool fits on. is that the nozzle? if so, the one on my star gun is damaged, perfect chance to replace it eh if not what is it? and where is the nozzle?
and i tried to turn it, but it didnt want to go, and didnt want to force it not knowing whether it was meant to come out and how....i figured it did seeings as the tool fitting the flats on it.
help please

im thinking of going iso-free 2pak (Talking to a panel beater mate tomorrow about supplying paints) i will ask him some questions, but dont want to ask too much as he is a smart arse at the best of times.

and if i strip or sand to metal, am i best off etch priming a coat or 2 then bogging, then sanding.
or bog first?
well, nikki, not bog, seeings as im going 2pak

im sure theres plenty more questions, but ill start off with this much and see where we go

thanks guys, and sorry, i just dont wanna flounder my way through this respray, im going black or Ford citric acid and i want it to look sensational

cheers, andrew

[ian]

hi
why do you want to go bare metal respray?
it can uncover many nasty surprises
if you go back to metal are you confident enough to fill all the imperfections again ,?
ian

[love ke70]

well, as the story goes, i once upon a time sanded a front quarter panel back to bare metal, it looked 100% rust free but the paint was fubar.
i was doing this as experiment, which i never finished btw, ended up selling the panel lol

so i was sanding and sanding, and as i sanded down to the metal i found surface rust on the metal. just the very beginnings of it. i dont know how long it had been there or how long it would take to appear, it wasnt near any scratches, just a couple of random patches of mild surface rust that hadnt bubbled the paint or anything.

im sure if i had have just taken the paint back a layer and sprayed over in time to come this pre-existing surface rust would ahve become as issue.

i dont wanna risk that on this car.

im sure with enough patience i will be able to fix all the imperfections.

ill have to, wont i

what would you say is the best way of doing it?

[ian]

hi
i can see your point
there are a couple of ways to tackle it
first detemine how many coats of paint are on your car just rub through to metal and you can see how many layers
this one has about 5 layers of paint/primer

this one ,about 4 but the substrate is sound , so bare metal refinishing would not be neccesary in this case

another quick test is to wipe over a rubbed back area with thinners ,to see if there is a reaction , if it bleeds or fries up then i would go back to matal
hope that this makes sense
ian

[love ke70]

righteo, im using a mix match of panels, the doors have been resprayed so im not sure how many are on them, but the rest is factory paint, so it should only be nice and thin, do you suggest stripper or sanding for this?
ill do that test for you when i get some sand paper

[andy]

is acrylic a good base coat for 2 pack i understand that acrylic needs to dry throughly for at least a month before 2pac will stick to it. so say if i rubbed my car back with 800 grit wet and dry(keeping in mind i sprayed it in acrylic a good 8 months ago) and sprayed two pack over it would it work? or would it just look crap and be a waste of time ?

cheers luke

i put 2 pac clear over accrillic. most of it had been drying for a month. but some patches had been sprayed 30 min pryor to clear going on. and it came up mad. couldnt tell that it had been touched up or anything. no probs mixing 2 pac with acrillic over here.

[Steve M]

I just put the first coat of vinly etch primer on my engine bay and it mostly went well.
I had to rub back and touch up a couple of spots where stripper residue hadn't been cleaned completely and the paint just wouldn't dry.

I had very little overspray trouble thanks to my new faviourite toy, the 10L pressure pot.
Those things are a bitch to set up, but once you get them working the way that suits you, they are awesome.
I decided not to use the 2mm nozzle cheap-shit suction-type gun that came with it and hooked it up to my 1.4mm HVLP gun.
The result was about 1 litre of mixed primer (2part paint, 1 part thinner) to cover the whole engine bay and front bits.

The biggest upsides of using pressure pots that I can see are less overspray (less paint wastage) due to less air flow needed and I can use it to spray upside down!

I don't really want to see how easily it cleans though, I reckon that'll suck. It's nice being able to just mix up an old 4L paint can full and get to work. No cleaning pots between different paints and no filling 1L pots anymore, Woohoo!

[love ke70]

well i emptied the car today, everything is removed, ready for me to start prepping.
ill sand a panel tomorrow and see how many layers there are, and consider if i wanna go with the sanding or chemical stripping option.

didnt get to talk to my beater mate today, hopefully tomorrow, still chasing some answers to my previous post

[o_man_ra23]

Either sand it or Sand blast it. Stripper gets into places it shouldnt and makes a mess... ok for big flat areas, but no good for framework etc. See if somebody can come with a mobile sandblaster??

[love ke70]

i have a little sandblasting doo daa i was thinking of using for getting into fiddly spots, but i was worried about it hiding until i paint and then it appearing in my paint work.

i might strip the bigger arears, blast the fiddly shit and sand the rest, yeah?

[o_man_ra23]

Sounds like a reasonable plan... just make sure you wash that shit properly, and get hold of a REALLY good vacuum to suck all the sand out of your sills.