The Spray Painting Thread

[wirysage]

lol this is true. It should be a rule if the painter has anything more then a listing in the yellow pages then you know your getting screwed.

Also does anyone know where to buy aircraft paint remover. From what I've read its very very powerful stuff.

Not everything is on the "Net" Most panel beater I know would not know how to set up a web page!

Look through the phone book and you will probably find half a dozen paint shops in a light industrial arae close to where you are. Go and check them out. See if anyone is willing to accomodate you. As for gear, a SuperCheap $60-80 gun and a bunnings respirator with vapour filters $30.00.

Like ian said though, the finish has to be good or it could be a monumental waste of time that devalues your car.

Jezz pm sent.

[MorgzMods]

after a bit of advice guys, you all seem to be incredibly keyed into the painting scene.

I've pulled nearly all the interior plastic trim out of my celica, and i'd like it sanded where there are scratches and repainted to get it looking great. i would like the colour to be fairly close to original the original tan.

I've done some basic rattle can painting that turned out very average (didn't use a tack cloth or anything to wipe down between coats/after sanding) on some computer cases.

I can spend about $200-$400 if the finish is going to be perfect and long lasting.

What should i be looking at doing? could i get decent paint and a professional to paint it for that price range?

Cheers,
Morgan

[wirysage]

after a bit of advice guys, you all seem to be incredibly keyed into the painting scene.

I've pulled nearly all the interior plastic trim out of my celica, and i'd like it sanded where there are scratches and repainted to get it looking great. i would like the colour to be fairly close to original the original tan.

I've done some basic rattle can painting that turned out very average (didn't use a tack cloth or anything to wipe down between coats/after sanding) on some computer cases.

I can spend about $200-$400 if the finish is going to be perfect and long lasting.

What should i be looking at doing? could i get decent paint and a professional to paint it for that price range?

Cheers,
Morgan

disregard post

["Z" UTE]

For heavy scratches, try a mlight sanding in that area alone. Too much and you will knock off all the surrounding texture. You will have to use vinyl coloour in a can, Vinyl paint/ Vinyl dye, VHT have a great range of colours. If you can rattle can a couple of PC cases, then the vinyl dye is for you. Remember light coats with 5 - 10 minutes or so drying time between each coat.

There may be some old school dash recolouring paint/dye available. I used some to bring back a beige crash pad, stuff is water based and you brush it on, smell like "shit in a tin", only way I could describe it, but it worked a treat.

cheers Chuck.

[MorgzMods]

disregard post

Interior i've cut n polished the hood, roof and front side panels and it looks great. even a bit of polish on the chrome strips have made them shine again.

For heavy scratches, try a mlight sanding in that area alone. Too much and you will knock off all the surrounding texture. You will have to use vinyl coloour in a can, Vinyl paint/ Vinyl dye, VHT have a great range of colours. If you can rattle can a couple of PC cases, then the vinyl dye is for you. Remember light coats with 5 - 10 minutes or so drying time between each coat.

There may be some old school dash recolouring paint/dye available. I used some to bring back a beige crash pad, stuff is water based and you brush it on, smell like "shit in a tin", only way I could describe it, but it worked a treat.

cheers Chuck.

Thanks for that info mate the main worn panels aren't textured too much iirc so that will make it easier.
VHT Vinyl dye looks fairly good. Local repco has it for $19.95 a can.
Would i need to worry about using a tack cloth between coats or anything like that?

With the smell you mentioned, i've hopped into some older cars before and after sitting in the sun for a day it smells like it's just been painted. unfortunately any kinda paint smell gives me a headache within minutes (i'm a pussy i know ) Once the vinyl dye cures should i expect anything like that?

Cheers!

["Z" UTE]

MorgzMods, scrub the panels with a mix of water and sugar soap, this will remove all the sweat/human grease, and other contaminants prior to colour dyeing, after scrubbing rinse off with warm water. Tack rag between coats, that would be a NO.

A tack rag is only ever used to remove small amounts of lint, after wipeing down panels with prepwash.

The vinyl dye is quite pungent, so wear a respirator if that sort of thing bothers you. Leave the panels fer a few days before refitting, as there will be some residual outgassing of the solvents.

cheers Chuck.

[MorgzMods]

Thanks very much for that mate

I'll post back some pictures once i'm done for everybody to have a peak at.

[Hendo]

beware the vinyl dye on smooth plastic, I found it shows every tiny imperfection. 2 coats of primer/surfacer did the trick but it took a while to get it really smoth and blemish free (800 grit after primer/ surfacer) however I was painting gloss black.

On another note, what paint would be the best for a spaceframe chassis? were up to painting the FSAE car at uni and I need some advice from those in the know. We have a booth and 2 pac would be ideal, though I'm quite new to it all.

[dnegative]

Whats the go with painting wheels? My spraypainter really isn't keen on doing them but he will if I push money upon him. I was digging through his collection of 2k paints and found some VL gold which I think will contrast nicely with my gunmetal paint.
They have a few chips and scrapes from the previous owner, can you skim some mickey on them and paint over?

[GUN METAL]

Sorry havent read the thread but i have a painting Q

I have done a bit of painting over the years, all in acrylic and i have allways been happy with the finished product, done small stuff and complete cars.

Thing i have never done is go from bare metal. So i went to the local paint supplier and got some stuff told em i was painting a bonnet and its back to bare metal.

I remember about 10 years ago a friend painting his car from bare metal i i remembered something about etching / etch primer.

I remember after he prepsolled the surface he used like a yellow / green product just wiped it on with paper towel and i thought that was the etch then he just primed it yada yad.

the thing was what the shop sold me was etch primer it was white.

So i rubbed the paenel back with 400, prepsolled it then hit it with this etch primer out of the gun it said to give it 2 coats.

So it went on perfectly and i was very happy

What happened after that tho was i am putting in a vent and was sitting the fibreglass vent on it (like 5 days later) and the paint just started flaking off !!! its like its ver brittle, not at all like normal primer / filler........

So i am worried that its not the right type or maybe i didnt apply it right or have i missed a step ?


So i looked and the can and noticed its for NON FERROUS metals FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF

Is this ok or did the guy at the paint shop stuff up.

Heresafewpics





never had this happen before




The stuff







Any help advice would be appreciated, i dont want to go to the trouble of getting it ready for colout thern finish paintitng it only for the paint to fall off

[ian]

sorry to be the bearer of bad news it looks like you have to start over again

[SHEPPO3930]

i've used that brand of etch primer on repairs (cutting rust out of a ta22) and i also gave my bonnet a coat of it after i took it back to bare metal. i've not had an issue with it sticking, infact it seems to have stuck on really well!

the only thing i did was wipe the new metal down with wax & grease remover (wipe on with one cloth, off with another), then sprayed the etch primer on... done.

i will add i used the product out of the spray can.

[GUN METAL]

Ian, Thanks for the prompt reply

so is the problem becuase of the way i put it on or because its for non ferrous ????

Also in difference to any other primer i have used i just put it straight on WITHOUT ANY THINNERS, as it was allready very thin, is that ok or is possble its too thick ? like its a VERY thin coat again not like normal primer, also it says to rub it back with 400, its weird its like an egg shell is the best way to explain it "thin and brittle.

i havent tried to sand it yet, in fact before i noticed the cracking off i was going to use some normal primer over the top for a bit of fill if you know what i mean.

So what should i do go back to the shop and get em to supply me with some more freken paint stripper then do it again i suppose with a ferrous primer ?

Sheppo, thats interesting, maybe i should see if it flackes off in other places maybe its an iasolated problem maybe i just didnt remove all the wax / oil.......not that i know where it came from.................. would paint stripper cause a problem ????

After stripping it i want over the whole thing vigourously with 100 wet and dry and a hose, dried it off then did it again with 300 again with the hose running over it, dried it with a clean rag then used paper towel twice with prepsol, like i have done EVERY OTHER TIME !

["Z" UTE]

Just seems to be way too many etch primer problems these days. Lets stepout the process for a bare metal respray.

Everything has to be ultra clean, if this means degreasing the panel before you start so be it. Then wash it with truck wash or sugar soap. Then and only then do you get stuck into the repair or paint prep. If you have a dirty or wax covered panel, all you are going to do is smear all the contaminants all over the job. Any contaminants will ruin the paint job.

Next remove the existing paint, use chemical stripper, soda blasting, garnet,walnut shell, grafitti removal discs, or coarse grade sandpaper and lotsa elbow grease.

If you have removed the factory phosphate coating from the metal then you must re apply that coating, either by using ametal conditioner that contains phosphate or by ETCH PRIMING.

An etch primer should be translucent in colour, ie. you can almost see through it when applied to the panel. That is why it is so thin in the can, one or two coats is all that is required, just ensure complete coverage.

An ultralight scuff back to promote adhesion is all the sanding that is required. 800 wet and dry or the red scothbrite painters pad.

Way too many people are using prepsol/ wax and grease remover improperly. Most will bunch the cloth up and place the cloth over the can then invert the can to get the prepwash onto the cloth, this is totally wrong, as any contaminants on the rag are transferred to the lip of the can, then is transferred back to the next piece of cloth, the cycle repeats itself with contaminants being spread over the entire panel or car.

The correct procedure is to fold the clean cloth, cup the cloth in your hand and pour the prepwash onto the cloth from at least 20mm away. Wipe the panel moving from one edge to the other, turn the cloth to a clean section and again wipe from edge to edge. Throw that cloth away and wipe the panel down with a clean dry cloth. Tack rag the surface to remove any lint from the cloths, and apply your paint.

Hope this prevents a few problems down the track for the new painters,

cheers Chuck

[GUN METAL]

chuck appreciate the reply, everything makes sense there but if i could clarify a few things.

1) so is the etch primer i used ok being non ferrous, and what of the brand ?

2) is there anything to do to clean / neutralise the paint stripper. basically just used alot of water and 100 then 300 grade wet and dry over and over till the slimey feel was gone.

3) there were no repairs the bonnet was straight so it was just rip off all the paint as for the phosporous i assume thats the black stuff and the stripper / scaper got most of that off, the 100 and 300 did the rest.

4) i specifically note your process with the prepsol was onto a cloth / rag and i can see how recontamination could be an issueif you use the same rag you are basically spreading the contaminant around rather than removing it if your not careful. what i have allways done is use paper towel. put a new peice oftowel onto the top and invert, clean the surface then bin it, repeat repeat usually 3 times over the whole surface, never had a problem with paint sticking before.

5) now re the scouring pad or 800 is it better to go that fine or is 300 ok (mind you i used it pretty hard so by the time i was fininshed it was probly more like 600 grade anyway........

6) according to the can the etch is clear but they colour it so you can see what your doing (good idea) i am just wondering if i put too much on ie its supposed to be a VERY thin coat ? ie not like normal primer where i usually load a fair bit on ( primer filler)so i can level it out ( obviously not as critical with a flat bare metal surface compared to some dodgy repair i might have done)

so do i have to strip it again or just rub it back with say 800 overall and etc where it peels off ?