The Spray Painting Thread

[takai]

Where are you getting them for $25, all the ones i can see which are of decent size are like $50+

[MR22ZZ]

it's an Aldi special.
seems to work OK, used it to clean up some old fishing gear yesterday.

these ones are not huge but would be big enough for an injector.

Internal dimensions are : ~150mm long, 125mm wide (oval shaped) and 48mm deep

[takai]

Ah, Aldi. Ill get my mum to go buy one.

[oldcorollas]

Evercoat Gold and PPG Microfine are pefect for filling over a primed surface.

where in sydney can one acquire these fillers?

have been using Upol flyweight, but it doesn't go on smooth... want to get something that goes on smooth and fills fine scratches/porosity in the flyweight

and.. for wax n grease remover, i vaguely remember readign that Septone was shite? what is good?

["Z" UTE]

oldcorolla's, for a quick backyardy the Septone stuff may be ok. Most wax and grease removers are quite usefull, as long as the instructions are followed. Do a panel at a time, and dry off immediately before the solvent evaporates. Number one tip, is to keep the cloth away from the can/bottle lip and pour the grease remover onto the cloth. The moment you place the cloth onto the container lip, you are transferring contaminant from the cloth to the can/bottles contents.

I have done a couple of cars using nothing more than sugar soap and hot water, surprised? yeah I thought so. After thoroughly washing the vehicle with sugar soap, it is then pulled down to the various panels. Paint removed weld repairs made and a nicky of bog applied. The wet rub on the filler and the undercoat is also done with sugar soap, Final clean down is done with a weak mixture of sugar soap, followed by a dry cloth, the tack cloth, then on with the primer or colour.

Using the sugar soap and water mix continually cleans the hands, as well as the car surface, therefore there is almost zero transference of oils and sweat from the human body to the panels.

Check your yellow pages for a paint supply shop in your area, if they stock PPG, they will have the "PPG Galvaplast Microfine Filler".

cheers Chuck.

[Andrew162]

I've used Septone W&G on almost everything I've ever painted, and I've had no issues with it thus far.

[oldcorollas]

Thanks Chuck, again

doesn't seem to be any locals near home (repco and supacheap don't count..) and near work stock other stuff...

ahh well, looks like it will be january before i get any paint on anyway

[DrNick]

where in sydney can one acquire these fillers?

have been using Upol flyweight, but it doesn't go on smooth... want to get something that goes on smooth and fills fine scratches/porosity in the flyweight

and.. for wax n grease remover, i vaguely remember readign that Septone was shite? what is good?

I must jump in and say ive had nothing but bad experiences with the septone stuff.. so many panels with fish eyes. I think it doesnt evaporate fully and you need to wash it off after wards or something...Who knows really. But the K&H stuff has always been good to me, and now that i has the 3M logo on the side of the can I like it even more

[oldcorollas]

haiiii Dr Nick

3M.. as in the stuff they sell at suerpcheap?

[o_man_ra23]

As in probably the most renowned and pioneering adhesive manufacturer known to mankind... yeah. I used some of their current superthief range of GP thinners, fibreglass bog, and acryllic high build primer on the roof of the ute, and I must say I wasn't unimpressed. When I had the gun settings right (need to do something about my dodgy pressure regulator) that stuff layed on quite well, dried nicely and did a good job of filling imperfections.

["Z" UTE]

I must jump in and say ive had nothing but bad experiences with the septone stuff.. so many panels with fish eyes. I think it doesnt evaporate fully and you need to wash it off after wards or something...Who knows really. But the K&H stuff has always been good to me, and now that i has the 3M logo on the side of the can I like it even more

DrNick, that is your problem right there. All prepwash/wax grease removers must be dried off, and not allowed to evaporate.

One very unlikeable lad at TAFE was prepping his car for paint, all washed down with prepwash, and wiped down. He went off to lunch, and a couple of the other lads who had suffered at the hands of this guy prepwashed his car for him again, without wipeing it dry. End result a very poor paint job with lots of fisheyes and poor adhesion. Payback is a bitch.

cheers Chuck.

[DrNick]

Yep I suspected that was the case, which is why I thought it best to note that

With the K&H stuff even when I'm lazy and just wipe stuff down with it before painting, it never results in issues. So its a winner in my book

[takai]

Im thinking of doing the Supra in an enamel when i repaint it, especially after it worked so well doing the bonnet of the Sprinter. The 2pak was good, but the enamel was so much easier and less arduous on the prep work.

Any thoughts on enamel vs 2Pak.

[o_man_ra23]

Enamel requires the whole panel to be re-sprayed for repairs as you cannot effectively blend the paints. IMHO this makes enamel teh loozorz.

If you are spraying open air, I would suggest acrylic over enamel. Overall 2k is teh winner due to its durability and repairability. Acrylic is also reasonably easy on the prep work, the roof of my 'lux is proof of that

["Z" UTE]

Enamel is funny stuff sometimes. Air dry enamel is good, but not as good as baked. Small repairs on enamel panels are nearly always made with acrylic.

FWIW, the original name for Dulux 2pak back when it first came out in the mid 80's was "ACRAN" ie. acrylic enamel.

Acrylic,properly applied as a whole paint job, can look stunning. A lot of high end show cars were painted in acrylic,instead of enamel, then along came 2pak, and the game changed.

cheers Chuck.