The Spray Painting Thread

[Scoobzd]

Could've read through all 64 pages BUT I'll post up this info anyway...

Best and cheapest way to strip paint off PANELS - Engine bays are more of a pain

Buy 4 lts of AUTOMOTIVE paint stripper

Apply to the panel in a 2mm thickness

COVER the applied section with GLADWRAP or cheaper lesser brand of cling wrap

Covering the paint stripper traps the heat in thus making it 50 times more effective !

Ever spilt stripper on your skin and it burns ?

Try what I've said re the wrap - You'll be pleasantly supprised !

Dad beat you to that 12 posts up ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ LOL

[oldcorollas]

COVER the applied section with GLADWRAP or cheaper lesser brand of cling wrap
Covering the paint stripper traps the heat in thus making it 50 times more effective !
Ever spilt stripper on your skin and it burns ?
Try what I've said re the wrap - You'll be pleasantly supprised !

no, that is not correct, it traps the solvent there, so it doesn't evaporate.
there may be a slight change in temp, but I would be surprised if the panel temperature actually rose much.

luckily, your skin and paint are quite different, and pain in hand is not hat in paint... anyway...

Another way to help paint stripper bite into the paint is to cover the panel with garbage bags or glad wrap, to keep the fumes acting at the paint. I have found this to be very useful when stripping panels on my car.

this.. stops the thinner from evaporating as quickly.

[oldcorollas]

Dad beat you to that 12 posts up ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ LOL

pity he doesn't understand why it works eh?

[Scoobzd]

Heres a PM from Magnum76

Hey mate
cheers for the tips with the glad wrap and paint striper worked a treat

nuff said !

[takai]

takai, there is probably something microscopic trapped in the metal. eg. acid, sand it back, neutralize the acid with hot soapy water, dry off, apply rust converter, sand that off, etch prime and paint.

cheers Chuck.

Yeah, did that this time around. Hopefully it will work. Also hit it with the blowtorch to burn off anything that might be there.
Failing this ill skimcoat it with bog and move on...

[Doogs]

Whoops, should have read more thouroughly ! Anyway I certainly vouch for it's effectiveness.

[o_man_ra23]

Some decent facts here http://www.sodablasting.com/about-sodablasting/

That looks like American style hard sales crap. I already know the benefits, it's the pitfalls I am worried about.

Once sodablasted, is the slightly acidic cleaner enough to allow paint adhesion to the tight nooks and crannies your scrubber can't get to?? If not, how are you going to stop the insides of panels (ie rocker sills) from corroding once the residue wears off??

[twentyEight]

Nevermind.

[mr75]

Well here is a picture of my first ever paint job with 2 pak. It was a engine bay so in some respects it was a little more forgiving but I only had one run and you cant see it so im happy. Thanks guys

Before


High tech spray booth


Finished product


Thanks again guys especially chuck

[mr75]

also how do I give rep? do I have to have a certain amount myself before I can give rep?

[o_man_ra23]

Set of scales, top right of the appropriate person's post.

[GeneSPIDA]

Once sodablasted, is the slightly acidic cleaner enough to allow paint adhesion to the tight nooks and crannies your scrubber can't get to?? If not, how are you going to stop the insides of panels (ie rocker sills) from corroding once the residue wears off??

Well, I can't say what might happen years down the road as mine is still in the rebuild/respray phase now. I can only go on the research I've done into the potential issues of Soda blasting, and basically the things I found were:

• There is mention of residue in various references to Soda Blasting, by sources for and against it.
• Some references talk about it's "protective" feature in terms of stopping corrosion.
• Others, such as the book I put a bit of faith in, recommend using a slightly acidic cleaner as I've suggested to remove the residue to stop adhesion issues.
• There are many opinions out there, and it's hard to know who's counts, even when talking to several experienced restorers/painters many have opposing opinions.
• My repair/restorer did mention paying special attention to tight joins/seems too, and prefers paint stripper, so I went against his recommendation a bit there.
• Sanding to get the residue off wouldn't be any more effective than using the cleaner in terms of tight joins, etc. so my comment of not needing that would still stand.

At the end of the day, I had to make a call based on all the information I had as to whether to go paint stripper (with cling/pallet wrap to help it work), sand blast or soda blast the car. I'm the one who's going to pay the price if the job doesn't last the journey like I'm hoping it WILL.

Initially, I was going to use the paint stripper as per my restorers preference, but felt soda blasting would do a better (cleaner) job of getting paint off all the panel ribbing, etc. Stripper would work, but would have been a lot messier, and for various reasons I decided on soda blasting.

I found someone who could soda blast external surfaces of the car, sensitive to warping from heat (sand blasting), pitting of the surface and removal of the panels original metal protection, but who could also use sand blasting for the rusted areas and places where soda blasting wasn't necessary. My cars underside and internal/cabin protection was pretty good, so I did not strip those areas.

The other key thing to remember is to clean and prime the car ASAP after blasting. I've also used an Epoxy primer to protect the metal as it is non-pourous. You can, if you think necessary, also perform some metal conditioning of rust-prone areas prior to applying the Epoxy primer. I've been told by very experienced show car painters not to use an Etch primer if you've metal conditioned the panel (used phosphoric acid) as that causes adhesion issues.

Another thing I'm doing is apply KBS (Por-15) 3-step rust protection/treatment to key or rust-prone areas during this phase, which will be sanded with 240-grit paper before cleaning and applying another coat of Epoxy over. For example, this can be done on the undersides of doors, along sills or rocker panels.

I'll be doing the rough body shaping soon using high quality, light-weight and waterproof body filler. Still debating whether to use Polyester Spray Filler when this is complete, before applying Urethane Primer and 2-pak Solid colour to finish the job.

[GeneSPIDA]

Oh, and if by "inside" you mean in all the cavitities that you can't get to easily, that's where I'll probably need to look at the options of fish or linseed oil, or a suitable synthetic alternative. There are some parts you just can't get to directly, where these seem to be the options recommended.

[turbocaldina]

my 2 cents worth as i am a painter is that soda blasting is a good source of paint stripping, and that after its soda blasted use only epoxy primer as its the best for sticking to bare metal, we use it on cement trucks that have had the chassis blasted. All so polyester spray bog i wouldnt recommend as over time it goes to hard and develops "crows feet" cracking in the paint.

[oldcorollas]

does that apply for normal polyester bog too?