The Spray Painting Thread

[infotechplus]

Looks good.

Peter

[Taff]

So here's my effort guys. Just finished today around 8pm still drying but couldnt resist pulling the tape off and sitting a few bits up against it to make it look like a car again

Big thanks to Chuck and everyone else on here that helped me out. This is the first bodywork i have ever done and the first painting job and I am very happy.

Pics:

[infotechplus]

Should buff up nicely. When you go to buff be careful you don't go too hard, especially on the edges. You run the risk of cutting back to the undercoat.

Try on an inconspicuous part of the car first. I suggest do it by hand to get a feel for the paint.

Well done.

Peter

[Taff]

Will do. Still have to redo the bonet as i wasn't happy with it at all. Hopefuly rego on monday, coolest christmas present ever

[Taff]

Still havn't buffed it but its back together again.


more pics here

["Z" UTE]

Taff, that looks great, particularly for a first timer! This is what Toymods is all about sharing knowledge and helping everyone get the best project for the time and effort spent.


Well done champ,

cheers Chuck.

[Taff]

Thanks, rego on monday and will be able to take it for a proper drive. There are a few spots on the car that are not too flash and i have some ideas what i would do differently if i did it again but overall I'm exstatic. If i have to repaint it again in a year or three then it still cost 1/4 of paying someone else to do it and i have learnt skills for life. I must say bodywork is very rewarding when you get it right, looking at a panel and knowing how it looked a few days ago compared to now it a great feeling.

A few things that I picked up:
-Have really good lighting where you're working on the car. Poor lighting hides bad bits and by the time you find them it could be too late
-Start with the smallest ammount of bog and work upwards, filling a tiny low spot is easy... sanding back a lump makes you end up with more low spots than you started with
-the medium sized sanding boards for walls from bunnings are awesome combined with a big roll of sandpaper
-paint doesnt cover anything, just changes the colour of it haha
-sanding edges sucks bigtime
-98cent drop sheets from bunnings are also awesome

Chuck if we ever meet the beers are on me

[infotechplus]

A few things that I picked up:
-Have really good lighting where you're working on the car. Poor lighting hides bad bits and by the time you find them it could be too late
-Start with the smallest ammount of bog and work upwards, filling a tiny low spot is easy... sanding back a lump makes you end up with more low spots than you started with
-the medium sized sanding boards for walls from bunnings are awesome combined with a big roll of sandpaper
-paint doesnt cover anything, just changes the colour of it haha
-sanding edges sucks bigtime
-98cent drop sheets from bunnings are also awesome

All TRUE!

Once again, well done. It's not easy, I'm sure you know that, but you can do it yourself and get a more than acceptable result.

Peter

[nuk1ear]

anyone keen to spray my boot lid and engine lid on my MR2?? In melb

[SHEPPO3930]

i've been spraying (same gun) that with 1.8 tip, mixed about 50/50, and with pressure much lower.. around 25-30psi.
that was at about 15deg air temp and went on well.

less thinner and higher pressure both resulted in not being able to get a good fan.

try lowering pressure to 25 and maybe even lower... at least low enough to get a full fan pattern

the colour goes on really nicely with the 1.4 tip..

SHEPPO, your 2 in 1 is going to be much much thicker than an acrylic colour coat.

Bigger tip, lower pressure, and thinner mixture.

The air flow through the nozzle may also need adjusting.

Different gun will not be set up the same as the previous gun, takes a little practice to get all the gun and paint parameters in the green zone.

cheeers Chuck.

Hi guys, did what you suggested and had another shot at the bonnet & front splitter yesterday arvo.

Dropped the pressure to 25psi, changed the thinner ratio from the recomended 2:1 (primer:thinner) to 5:3, and also ran the 1.8mm tip.

The primer went on nice and wet, and i'm wrapped with the result.

Thanks for the help!

[Taff]

hey guys, going to buff my fresh paint just looking for some product recommendations and tips.

Paint is acrylic with clearcoat. I want to do it by hand, I have plenty of time, uni holidays, trying to save money, scared of ruining it with power tools Haha. Happy to spend more on quality products. Should I use cloths or wool pads? If I use 2000 grit and soapy water to flatten it a bit I imagine there will be a fair amount of work to remove the marks?

I have never polished or waxed a car before, only had 4wds so even the most trivial information will be helpful.

Thanks

["Z" UTE]

Taff, I replied to a thread "What Cutters & Polish to use on Two-Pac first time off " a couple of days ago. Go and have a read.

Hand buffing is a crap load of work, but if you are going to go that way, follow the wet 2000 sand with a wet 3000 sand, the 3000 starts to restore the gloss, and will make the hand compounding a lot easier. If you use a cutting compound paste, you can wet it down a bit to thin the mix and make life easy. Use a trigger spray bottle filled with water add water as required. Old "T shirts"are the best material for hand compounding, just keep on turning the cloth, as the dry build up will scratch your paint. Microfibre cloths are the go for final shine.

cheers Chuck.

[derekjay]

Hi guys, I have a question. Putting my MZ12 back together I got the exterior paint job done professionally, but I noticed the interior paint and metal was a bit ratty. I am paranoid about it getting rusty. So I have been sanding back the paint and priming it with Wattyl Kill Rust Heavy Duty Primer. My question is, if I don't care what it looks like because it is all going to be under the carpet, seats etc, do I need to put a top coat on? What is the advantage?

[infotechplus]

Wattyl Kill Rust Heavy Duty Primer.

Interesting choice.

I'm not meaning to be churlish here but that product is not something I'd associate with automotive uses.

The website says:

"A high performance, anti-corrosive primer. Forms a tough and flexible coating to resist corrosion, even in the harshest of environments. Ideal for use on ZINCALUME® and galvanised Iron. For use on roofs, wrought iron railings, gutters, down pipes and general structural steel work."

I don't think you can paint over it with automotive paint (either 2Pac or 1K Acrylic) even if you wanted to. I might be wrong though!



Cheers,

Peter

[derekjay]

Yep. But this is just for the interior structural metal. I had some lying around the house and it suits my purposes. I just want something that will allow me to not worry about rust. Like I said the exterior is already done. This is just for the interior metal that had some scratches and surface rust showing, before I put the carpet and seating back in. What I want to know is, if I prime with this do I need to top coat, given that I don't care what it looks like?