The Spray Painting Thread

[X kyle X]

sorry to break up your argument but can i ask a quick question..

i got a aw11 mr2 and the front and rear bar needs to come back all the way, and it is like a hard rubber surface, and was wondering what i can use to strip it?? if anything..

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

any paritular reason you need to go back to plastic?

[JP]

sorry to break up your argument but can i ask a quick question..

i got a aw11 mr2 and the front and rear bar needs to come back all the way, and it is like a hard rubber surface, and was wondering what i can use to strip it?? if anything..

I've had some bead-blasted at a bumper repair place in the past to strip the paint off, they even applied a nice plastic primer afterwoods.

[X kyle X]

yeh the paint has crows feet and sharp edges (flaking) in it, so would really like to take it back to have a good finish.

apart form taking it to a bumper repair place as JP has suggested any home method i can use?

[JP]

I've wetsanded one back to plastic once, I'll NEVER do it again.. Took forever and also took the skin off my fingers

[X kyle X]

yeh learning that the hard way ay JP... SOOOOO LONG!!!

might get some tough grit paper and a machine and "whiz" it back as far as possible... cos the front bumper needs it and DAMN!!! haha

[gearb0x]

Been working on my shitbox tow car today, painted the inside of the bonnet & primered the outside/bumper. Hopefully ill have it on the car and painted next weekend

Here is some photos, i couldnt be stuffed sanding so I just used a scotch brite but its come up well enough, 90% of it will be covered by the mat thing anyway. Only used 2 coats of colour/clear, itll do for underneath the bonnet.

[Z2TT]

Hi,

Just a question, what is 2k (2 Pack) Paint, I have heard about it a lot but cannot find any information about it. Is it some sort of Urethane paint?

What is the process of using this paint system?

Thanks.

["Z" UTE]

Z2TT, 2 Pak, or 2K paint is a paint base plus a catalyst. Ratio's vary from manaufacturer to manufacturer, and even within the same brands.

Normally mixed 4 parts paint, to 1 part catalyst. another name for the catalyst is hardener, which is available in slow cure, normal cure, and of course fast cure. The cure rates are determined by the booth temperature, size of job etc.

Most fancy colours are not available in 2Pak. but all primary colours are available.
So if you want a basic paint colour it can be a 2Pac mix, and will give a gloss finish off the gun.

When you want a 2Pac job with pearl and other exotic mixtures, you would paint a base coat containing all these bits, and then clearcoat with a 2Pac clear.

The very first automotive 2pak, that I am aware of was introduced to the Australian market by Dulux, it was called ACRAN. It was a great procuct, combining the ease and paintability of acrylic, with the gloss and durability of enamel. The major drawback, was the paint system was made using Isocyanide, very nasty stuff!

Iso free, or Isocyananate free 2Pac has been available now for many years.

Urethane 2 pak has long been used in the aviation industry, and trucking industry. It is extremely durable, with exceptional gloss characteristics from the gun.

Pick of the brand names from my view point, are Glasurit, PPG and BASF.

All of the 2K/2Pac procucts should only be used by professionals in a booth, with all the appropraite safety equipment.

As with all things you get what you pay for.

cheers Chuck.

[DoctorDubb]

Probably a stupid question, But i ended up buying a cheap gun to spray - Gravity Feed with 1.4mm Tip. This is because originally i was going to spray 2k Paint, i am now leaning more for Acrylic Paint as it will be a backyard job - which i have read on this thread that would require ideally a 1.8mm tip?.

Is there going to be a problem with spraying Acrylic with 1.4mm tip? And if it is is it possible to switch tips (where do you get them from?) Its just a cheap SuperCheap gun $112 but got it half price ($56).

["Z" UTE]

DoctorDubb, I use a 2.0mm gun for primer/spray filler, and either a 1.2mm or 1.4mm for colour and top coat.

It all comes down to the viscocity of the paint you are spraying, and the pressure at which you are happy to spray.

With 2Pac, or acrylic, 1.8mm would be way too large to get an even top coat or colour coat.

cheers Chuck

[Grega]

yeah what chuck said drdubb
i use a 1.2mm for my color and clear
2.0mm for primer/spray putty

2.0mm for primer i find works REALLY well. lots of thin coats FTW.

[gearb0x]

G'day

Got a couple of questions about the rad support in my falcon, i noticed it doesnt appear to have any clear on the rad support it self as it isnt shiney like the outside of the car. I was just wondering if acrylic paint will be OK without clear on the rad support.

The other question is, what techniques do you guys know of blending repairs. I need to blend the following repair into the paint. Itll probably be easier to just repaint the top of the guard but id like to have a go at blending, if it sucks ill just sand it back

[Z2TT]

Just a tip, after setting up paint and adjusting spray gun practice on a scrap panel, to see if your settings and method will work.

When sanding try to apply even pressure everywhere, so wrap the paper around a block, and dont rub too hard so you dont make grooves.

[Noof]

Sorry if someone has mentioned this previously in this thread (cos I didnt read it all just the first ten and last five pages!)

I just stripped the top of the rear quarter of my TA22 using.......... Wait for it.
No wire wheel.
No chemical stripper.
No sandblasting.
No hard work....... well ok a little.

And my trusty wood chisel.
This actually works a treat.
I should clarify what I am stripping. I have original paint and then a primer/filler layer over that then an acrylic top coat over that. I am only looking to remove the crappy acrylic top coat.

The chisel doesnt seem to bite into the primer/filler layer leaving a pretty smooth surface to work with. Sure you occasionally dig the chisel into the other layers of paint but in essence this seems like a pretty good way to get rid of the paint?? One big positive is that the body shape which was there previously remains so no more remodelling just a bit of filling and just prime away!.

Other nice thing is no chemical smell, no fine powder just chips of paint easy to clean up and doesnt really require scuba gear to work?

Oh and also bear in mind that the back quarter of a TA22 is pretty straight... or just flowing curves. This method would be crap for a tight detailed panel.

Nathan