www.are.com.au
they've done alot of research into the system and has more than enough infomation, notes, and testing graphs to show how it works, why and what applications.
I think a r e's start at $900 and go up to around $2000 for a drag car
righto mate. c u there.
Jak
'77 RA28 Celica - Repairing Rust...
'84 AE71 Daily Driver/Race Car
'91 MX83 - Fastest Standard Turbo 1JZ Powered Vehicle In The World -
10.74 @124 Mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2ido6yirZ8
www.are.com.au
they've done alot of research into the system and has more than enough infomation, notes, and testing graphs to show how it works, why and what applications.
I think a r e's start at $900 and go up to around $2000 for a drag car
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
What if you Made a plate that sat on top of the FMIC... To this you add the dry Ice in between runs. This would help get the temp of the FMIC right down and would help lower inlet temps more?
I guess you could leave it on top for the whole run if it wont come off?
Ive thought of this, Like Jak said though, i wouldnt be doing it for any extra grunt, just to keep temps down and the package nice and consistent.
11.72 @ 116.7mph = Quickest Stock Turbo Jzz30 series SoarerAnd 1st into the 11's
WOOOT!!!
Still going good![]()
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc_7aRUGshw
Meant to ask.... Where can you buy Dry Ice from? BoC gasses or anywhere in west Sydney near Blacktown anyone know of?
Cheers.
11.72 @ 116.7mph = Quickest Stock Turbo Jzz30 series SoarerAnd 1st into the 11's
WOOOT!!!
Still going good![]()
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc_7aRUGshw
if you are going to do it, you want the IC to stay at a constant temp.
getting it 20-30deg colder to begin with is fine, but once you are going, it will heat up just as fast.. you have that initial buffer of temp.. but EVERYTHING, including the outside air, is trying to warm it up.
if you want to properly thermally manage things.. you need a cooling medium between the dry ice and the incoming air ... it is not only about temp but thermal capacity etc..
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
i think i saw you 1km from BOC the other day. vardys rd maryong.Originally Posted by Dieseltrain
the thing most ppl dont understand is its all well and good to cool the ic b4 the run but what happens in the burnout? you heatsoak the crap out of everything. you need a PROPER dry ice cooler that works the whole time otherwise your just pissing into the wind.
why do you think W/A is so popular? coz it works the whole time.
have a look at any of the dry ice setups that work and you will see a specialy made core for the job.
OC your idea is reasonably good but to go through a couple of cooling mediums is going to be inefficient not to mention heavy.
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
that is true.. but i'd rather have 20 or 20kg of liquid at -30 cooling my W/A IC than not
i disagree abotu efficiency.. you can spend however long you have in the pits, getting the cooling liquid down to as close to -78 as you can keep it, and then you have all that mass to warm up.
as opposed to having a few chunks of dry ice under the bonnet? (i dunno exactly how they work)
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
Yeah You prob did see me on Vardy's road, i live locally in KL...
I might just work something out and try it sometime, i mean, the only way to see if it works is to try right? LOL...
Thats why we are all on here![]()
11.72 @ 116.7mph = Quickest Stock Turbo Jzz30 series SoarerAnd 1st into the 11's
WOOOT!!!
Still going good![]()
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tc_7aRUGshw
Once I get the Vn running, I will make up a plate to put over the I/C and see how it goes. Before temps and after cooler temps.
Could be a while before I get to try it though. It still needs a lot before its running.
HZJ75, RS41, JZZ30
What about a phase change / fusion intercooler setup?
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_1815/...popularArticle
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
interesting, but using parafin wax (which has not so good heat transfer properties) limits your minimum temp to 50deg....
have an esky with dry ice to cool your liquid IS a phase change intercooler(but it is not reversible)
however, there are metal candidates for the phase change thing...
Bismuth eutectic alloys can melt at 70 degrees.. http://www.refractorymetal.net/eng/p...=79&classid=42
gallium is a metal that has a melting point of just 30 degrees!
http://everything2.com/index.pl?node=gallium
it's density is a bit less than steel..
cost might be around $3000/kg (from that crappy site)? not sure on that tho...
but it is very limited. once all the metal (or crappy wax) turned to liquid, then you just have thermal capacity of the metal... admittedly it will be same as having a normal intercooler acting as a heat sink but better... but still.. cooling times would be longer because of more stored heat.
just.. a lot more expensive![]()
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
I know 6Boost also uses this setup on his Rolla Van.
.
Current Toys
97 Pajero EVOLUTION
04 Lexus ES300
92 Hilux 2wd
It'd be interesting to see what they come up with, hopefully they find a suitable material![]()
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
well.. there are these products available for PC's already.
consisting of a sealed tube with "stuff inside"
the stuff is liquid, then the CPU heat makes it evaporate, it then moves to other end of tube and condenses (losing heat to outside), becoming liquid and trickling back down to CPU...
effectively, it is like retort? distillation (i forget the name...)
packaging would be an issue, as would total capacity to move heat.
there are a lot of options that can be used from "thermal management" industries... just car ppl have not caught on yet.. or cost is too high
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
It'd be pain needing to fill up with and fuel everytime you go to the drags. It'll also be very hard to regulate the temperature.
Just take a notch of fords belt. Use a Water to air intercooler and install an evaporator in the bottom of a 10 L container with a coolant blend that'll handle -10 or so. Have a submersible 12V pump feeding the intercooler core. Before a drag just idle the motor with the AC on for a minute or 2 till the coolant is cold and ready for a run. If you want it to be easily tubeable, a davies craig electronic water pump controller would allow for variable flow rates to regulate the intake temp to some degree.
Bookmarks