Interesting - while talking to the engineer - he mentioned there is a easy solution if I wanted to go out by 20mm - but just doing 5mm was harder.Originally Posted by PHOBIA
Shows the difference in Japanese engineering, I used to go through a set of fronts every six months when I was running 7" rims on my old Escort..
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
Interesting - while talking to the engineer - he mentioned there is a easy solution if I wanted to go out by 20mm - but just doing 5mm was harder.Originally Posted by PHOBIA
20mm allows you to go to a bolt on spacer - Spacer bolts to hub, wheel bolts to spacer, everyone is happy.
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
Except your wheel bearings and scrub radius...Originally Posted by Ben Wilson
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
That really depends on the wheel offset doesn't it?
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
True, although 20mm is a whole whack of clearance. I guess im used to people using spacers for the fully hektic flared guard look.
-Chris | Garage takai - Breaking cars since 1998
Sparky - AE86 IPRA Racer | RZN149 Hilux - Parts and Car Hauler
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
Yep, there is a massive difference between using a spacer to correct wheel offset or using a spacer to CREATE wheel offset. One car I own had 40mm bolt on spacers when I bought it, however they were to fit P40 offset wheels to a car designed for 0 offset. So effectively its running as the factory intended.
Callum
Quick question.
I've decided to just replace the rims - the engineer wants the wheel studs replaced with longer ones as well as bolting on a spacer. That's getting more expensive than just a replacement set of cheapo rims.
I currently have 17x8 with 35mm offset. If I'm running a 5mm spacer - should I be looking for a rim that has 40mm offset? - that should move it out from the strut 5mm, yes?
Originally Posted by Gibbon
You actually need a 30mm positive offset rim, to get rid of the 5mm spacer.
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
Put on flares and go 0 offset
I am in agreeance that getting the correct wheels in the first place is the best route, and spacers are out and out FTMFL... even bolted ones are one more place the tyre shop can root your car. Looks like you are going the correct route Gibbon, and it should also make your car insurable (spacers void your insurance policy in the event of an at fault incident, as do any un-engineered and un-approved(by the insurance broker) modifications)
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Talk to your engineer about track width.
Legally (in all states) you cannot decrease the track at all, and you cannot increase the track by more than 25mm.
So if you are running stock brakes on the rear, you'll require offsets of +8 to -4 (assuming Aus MA61)
With AU brakes on the front you'll require +16 to +4 (assuming disc is 8mm thick at hub)
If you have MS65 hubs, add 2mm from that front offset.
If you have custom hubs, you'll have to find out how they compare to factory ones.
You may be able to get the engineer to approve a wider track than factory, but this was flat out refused by the WA trans dept when I queried it a few weeks back.
Also, FWIW, currently ANY form of spacer (between the hub and hub mounting face on the rim) is illegal in all states (unless factory fitment).
This is both bolt on and slip on.
Any spacers that are engineered were done when it was legal, or at least wasn't illegal.
A spacer between the disc and the hub is perfectly legal.
That all said, a lot of things get overlooked when you go over the pits, and there is a high chance spacers will not be seen, especially if they are similar size and colour to the rim centre.
But then again, if you are going to the 'extreme' of getting the car engineered for 99% of your mods, you may as well get everything engineered, thus making the whole car legal.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Just like to clarify this, an unapproved mod only voids your insurance if its proven to have played a part in causing the accident.Originally Posted by o_man_ra23
My engineer spends a lot of his time inspecting smashed cars to see if the mods the owner has performed contributed to the accident.
No contribution means insurance is not void.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
NCOP states that spacers are not allowed, as Cruzida has stated. Read NCOP section LS thoroughly before talking to your engineer, so he doesnt hit you with it.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
Oh, and when the engineer pulls the car apart and includes in the report that you had spacers, but they didnt contribute... the cops will still give you an $80 fee for a non-conformity.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
True - but they are legal if they have been engineered. It's the engineers suggestion to use spacers.Originally Posted by o_man_ra23
It doesn't 'feel' right to me, which is why I'd rather get replacement rims.
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