Avante DISC conversion of RT104 (SPACER)

[RT104GT]

G'day.

The bearing retainer plate on the Avante rear axle has a welded ring on it to ensure that the wheel bearing is located into the axle housing. This welded ring matches the circumference of the hole in the alloy Girling Caliper mounting assembly.

PROBLEMS:
If I just stick the RT104 axle back in the retainer for this bearing is designed for a thin metal drum brake backing plate whereas the Avante plate is alloy and approx 4mm thick. This means the plate would ride up onto the alloy and not seat the RT104 axle correctly, and the bearing would be free to move around (in or out) approximately 8-10mm.
To get the AVANTE bearing retaining plates off involves wrecking the good axles and also my RT104 Axles.
Bearing sets are $45 per side and I am a scunge and this whole process of removing four bearings and fitting the AVANTE retainer plates can be solved by making up a spacer I am informed.

The spacer can be in 2 halves or maybe I can use an existing thick piston oil ring of that diameter which can be opened and threaded onto the axle between the bearing and the bearing retainer plate and provide the spacer and support to hold the bearing into the axle in the right place.

Has anyone done this and do you have details of how you made the spacer and what material.

X'cuse ignorance could you for axample make it from FIBRE or a big O ring? it is only a bearing spacer/packer.

Or I could turn a 5mm section out of the right o/d steam pipe except when you make the hacksaw cut the two halves will flop around a little and not fit neat.
Another way would be just to make a hoop out of some 1/4 inch steel fencing wire which could be trimmed to fit in really snug.

I mean it has only to provide thrust support but it can't be duct tape. .

But without it the bearing would move at least 8-10mm and that's not good.


Also anyone solved the handbrake connecting issue yet and how to secure the plates of the brake rubber to steel hose connection?

Tanks

[TurboRA28]

I used some exhaust pipe with the same OD as the ID of the axle tube where the bearing is seated.

Cut a ring, the 6mm or whatever it was can't quite remember.. Then put a slit in it so it could be opened up like a C shape and slip it over the axle.

So far so good.

[RT104GT]

I used some exhaust pipe with the same OD as the ID of the axle tube where the bearing is seated.

Cut a ring, the 6mm or whatever it was can't quite remember.. Then put a slit in it so it could be opened up like a C shape and slip it over the axle.

So far so good.

THANKS FIGURED IT OUT NOW, GOING TO USE SOME STEAM PIPE/GAS PIPE SEEMLESS AND DO WHAT YOU SAID

[GA61XX]

this is a problem ! yes what i have done in the past is to destroy the RT141-142 axles by cutting the bearing off with a disc grinder to get the retainer plate, once you have the pair off. useing a die grinder cut the welds off from the inside, try not to damage the rings. when rings are off cut through one side with a hacksaw, you now have 2 " C " shapes that are easly spread over the axle, close the " C " again & fit to car
if you have trouble, i have 20 of these rings on order. ( as i got sick of cutting up good axles ) please send me a PM or Email for more details.

["Z" UTE]

Guys, no need to destroy axles or bearings to get the plates off !!
I use an angle grinder with a 1mm thick cutting disc. Cut diagonally across the bearing retainer. Just be a little careful, not to cut the axle. Once you have cut 70-90% through the retainer, give it a good clout with a hammer and cold chisel. Pop the bearings off, and you will now have the backing plate sitting in your hot little hands. Cost 15 minutes of your time, and 3/5 of 5/8 of F%$#@ all of a grinding disc.

cheers Chuck.

[GA61XX]

Guys, no need to destroy axles or bearings to get the plates off !!
I use an angle grinder with a 1mm thick cutting disc. Cut diagonally across the bearing retainer. Just be a little careful, not to cut the axle. Once you have cut 70-90% through the retainer, give it a good clout with a hammer and cold chisel. Pop the bearings off, and you will now have the backing plate sitting in your hot little hands. Cost 15 minutes of your time, and 3/5 of 5/8 of F%$#@ all of a grinding disc.

cheers Chuck.

That's nice mate, but we are cheep, & do not want to buy the axles from the wrecker , just so we can cut crap off
in short , a $4 ring, verses a $25 axle + work.

[RT104GT]

That's nice mate, but we are cheep, & do not want to buy the axles from the wrecker , just so we can cut crap off
in short , a $4 ring, verses a $25 axle + work.

yes its a great idea.
I was just checking everything out to make sure it all fits.
Got me some 1098 pads and I have removed the backing plate from the Girlock Aluminium plate, cleaned and painted it. (Grrr using Australian bolt standards instead of Metric).

Waiting to get the rings so I can complete the job vs grinding off both sets of bearings and then buying and fitting a new set to the Corona axle at a cost of over $90.00.

$4 per side sounds good to me.

[GA61XX]

[QUOTE=RT104GT]yes its a great idea.
I was just checking everything out to make sure it all fits.
Got me some 1098 pads and I have removed the backing plate from the Girlock Aluminium plate, cleaned and painted it. (Grrr using Australian bolt standards instead of Metric).


for the bolts i use Metric HIGH TENSILE 10mm fine thread x 45mm long, they cost $2.90 each, ( i know the price sux but i don't want my bolts to snap when i hit the brakes. ) But use the original nuts. the bolt heads need to be ground on one face to clear the housing. i will have photos of it all.

["Z" UTE]

Geez, my wrecker must be a bottler, he has over the years, supplied me with many Avante rear brake setups, complete with backing plates.

cheers Chuck.

[RT104GT]

Geez, my wrecker must be a bottler, he has over the years, supplied me with many Avante rear brake setups, complete with backing plates.

cheers Chuck.

We are retrofitting discs to early Toyotas using Avante parts its a bit different.
For starters the bearing plate holding an early drum brake Corona bearing does not have the steel spacer to bridge the different sizes of the steel and alloy backing plates and has to be fitted. We just found a cheaper way.

[joecoolmk2]

the spacer ring needs to be about 71.5mm OD, and abou 4.5mm thick. i just did this conversion yesterday

my diff is an f diff from a mk2, and the avante retainer plates foul on the spacer ring that's between the bearing and the shoulder on the axle. i just turned the little spacer rings down in the lathe. i'm not sure if you'll have the same troubles with other diffs with smaller axles. i think my bearings were 38mm ID, can't remember anymore.

[RT104GT]

the spacer ring needs to be about 71.5mm OD, and abou 4.5mm thick. i just did this conversion yesterday

my diff is an f diff from a mk2, and the avante retainer plates foul on the spacer ring that's between the bearing and the shoulder on the axle. i just turned the little spacer rings down in the lathe. i'm not sure if you'll have the same troubles with other diffs with smaller axles. i think my bearings were 38mm ID, can't remember anymore.

By the sound of it you used the Avante retaining plates?

We are going to use our own plates and make up a 2/3 circlip type ring.
This method works as 2/3 circlips are used on gearbox shafts with good retention.

Also on my Corona GT the amount of space available to slip the collar/ring in is about 10mm as you push the bearing in.
I got two halves made from some 72mm pipe and they are not satisfactory and will not stay in place.


I reckon at a pinch you could use a 5mmx72mm silicon O ring, which does not compress and is high temperature tolerant and maybe even a fibre packing device using teflon.
Just get a 5mm teflon block cut a 72 mm hole in it with a dashboard instrument holesaw, and then using the same pilot hole cut a 65 mm hole in the round section.

teflon is easy to work with and melts at plus 600.

You would end up with a 71+ o/d 65+ i/d collar.

Cut the 1/3 out and it would slip into place and also be slightly flexible.

qed?


.


Thanks for the dimensions. Got any photos?

[joecoolmk2]

By the sound of it you used the Avante retaining plates?

We are going to use our own plates and make up a 2/3 circlip type ring.
This method works as 2/3 circlips are used on gearbox shafts with good retention.

Also on my Corona GT the amount of space available to slip the collar/ring in is about 10mm as you push the bearing in.
I got two halves made from some 72mm pipe and they are not satisfactory and will not stay in place.


I reckon at a pinch you could use a 5mmx72mm silicon O ring, which does not compress and is high temperature tolerant and maybe even a fibre packing device using teflon.
Just get a 5mm teflon block cut a 72 mm hole in it with a dashboard instrument holesaw, and then using the same pilot hole cut a 65 mm hole in the round section.

teflon is easy to work with and melts at plus 600.

You would end up with a 71+ o/d 65+ i/d collar.

Cut the 1/3 out and it would slip into place and also be slightly flexible.

qed?


.


Thanks for the dimensions. Got any photos?

that's all well and good, i did the same with the avante plates(long story,but not the point ) i made up a ring and didn't weld it to the plate because the bearings were already on. anyways, it was a real PITA to get the axles in, as the ring kept coming out of the hole, and i had to hold it in there with an electrode while i bumped the axle in.

seriously, it's a much better idea to either weld or glue the ring to the plate rather than having it seperate

[RT104GT]

A CIRCLIP method I am going to try to space the bearing press retainer and maintain correct bearing retention pressure.

Like in gearboxes, use a CIRCLIP or a SNAP RING as they say in Japan.


The ring is inserted from below until it locates into the GIRLOCK alloy backing plate.

The OD is the same diameter as the Wheel bearing and the fit is SNUG but not interference.
The end gap is sufficient to allow the snap ring to pass over the axle spacer outer ring whilst the thickness of the ring is sufficient to hold the bearing in place but not to press the bearing grease seal.






SNAP RING (CIRCLIP)



Two choices expensive or cheap (but not so nasty )

Home made SNAP-RING in place used as a spacer in the GIRLOCK Disc caliper backing plate on Avante Corona to fit to a RT104 CORONA rear end.

The design allows the ring to be inserted from below as you insert the axle, and it goes in between the bearing and the bearing backplate, which is then tensioned to ensure correct bearing retention pressure into the axle housing.


6.5 mm thickness and 69mm od. tool steel.

[RT104GT]

Just did the first one.
The trick is to put the snap ring into the Girlock backing plate so its secure by friction. Then sit it down on the axle hub flat and slowly lift into the axle housing.
have the axle housing bolts just holding the steel gasket bu tno further sticking out than a couple of mm. Push the bearing home then lift the backing plate up and centre and slowly push 1, then diagonally 2 then 3 and 4 bolts through, tap axle in firm and put on nuts loose then tighten up diagonally and push the bearing in using the snap ring and bearing backing plate.
QED..




GIRLOC backing plate with metal splash shield removed for clarity.
The thickness of this plate means you have to use some sort of spacer to retain the bearing correctly.



More Photos tomorrow.