get under the tank with the IGN on, and see if you can hear the fuel pump,
if you cant hear it, pull the fuel line off the rail, and turn ign on again, should have a steady flow of fuel going all over your engine bay
blake
just finished putting my st185 gt4 back together after changing the head gasket and other stuff and am having a hard time getting it started.
when cranked it kicks over for a second and dies .. checked everything i can think of, it has spark,made sure timing was right when i put it back together, checked all hoses, wiring etc.. anyone have ideas what it could be??.. also how can i check fuel??
get under the tank with the IGN on, and see if you can hear the fuel pump,
if you cant hear it, pull the fuel line off the rail, and turn ign on again, should have a steady flow of fuel going all over your engine bay
blake
checked AFM? all vacuum lines connected proper? does it continually kick over for a second then die each time you start it, or does it just crank, crank, crank after you've tried it once?
it kicks over like it normally would and then just dies immediately
so it starts then dies almost immediately?
my car did that exact same thing when i forgot to plug the AFM in after i had replaced something or other.
so check that as a start
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
My ST185 with 278awkw (2.2L is running...)
1:08.08s @ Wakefield 1:37.29s @ Winton
27.90s @ Esses Hillclimb
Jam the AFM open and see if that helps. If so, then you may need idle adjustment etc. If not, then you probably have an electrical fault that will lead you to the AFM (as said by Roundy) The other thing to try is open the diagnostic box, put a jumber between B+ and FP terminals, and then try starting... this will force the fuel pump to run.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
just jumped b+ and fp in the diagnosis, pulled fuel retuen line off and it pumped fuel.. but when i pulled the wire off b+ and fp and turned ignition on it did not pump fuel? is this normal? also checked afm and it is plugged in.. is there a way to test the afm?
Yes that is normal. The fuel pump should be on when cranking and when the AFM flap is open.Originally Posted by danny2
If the AFM trigger to the COR (Circuit Opening Relay) isn't working then the fuel pump will only be on during cranking (engine will start), but the fuel pump won't be on when the engine is running.
You should be able to get the AFM pinouts and check that the fuel pump trigger is working. Also if you connect FP to +B in the diag box and start the car it should run even if the AFM is disconnected (it will run rough and shite tho)
I'd be checking the AFM as the others have said!
Cheers
Wilbo
kicked it over with fp and b+ connected, it ran for about 5 seconds and then died, started again and again and it did what it was doing before and died immediately.. leads me to think its afm will try jamming it open now.. thanks for your help guys
"You should be able to get the AFM pinouts and check that the fuel pump trigger is working. Also if you connect FP to +B in the diag box and start the car it should run even if the AFM is disconnected (it will run rough and shite tho)"
are you sure of this?? because mine doesn't run with FP and B+ connected?
opened flap in afm and it ran, didn't sound to good though.. checked afm with ohmeter as per bgb and its fine..
held the throttle open and cranked it over and it chugs and hiccups and sometimes after a bit will rev properly and die shortly after.. i also heard the flap pop back and forth in the afm a few times when it was chugging so i stopped![]()
car is spitting out a code 52 which is knock sensor, one thing that did happen when i was putting engine back together is the connector was damaged, but i managed to put a female connector in it which looked like it would be fine, would these sort of symptoms be from a faulty knock sensor??
after fiddling with the knock sensor wire there is no code now??
the joys of owning a car![]()
faulty knock sensor would not cause that from my experience but in the ST205 i dont have an AFM so even when the knock sensor was faulty the car was still very drivable just slow
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