it's not a wiring fault between AFM & ECU is it? from what you're describing it could be a short somewhere, possibly AFM connector or wiring to/from. the flap in the AFM shouldn't be doing that.![]()
car starts and runs albeit very rough when AFM is NOT connected, when i plug it back in it will run smoothly for about 5 seconds and then die and then when i crank it over again it will die immediately
it's not a wiring fault between AFM & ECU is it? from what you're describing it could be a short somewhere, possibly AFM connector or wiring to/from. the flap in the AFM shouldn't be doing that.![]()
don't think its a short somewhere mainly because there are no codes, when i unplug the afm it will show 24 and 31 which are both for the afm.. does not do it when connected, i'm guessing it would if there was a short between the afm and ecu??
if there was a short in the AFM it wouldn't necessarily give you an error code, but this is starting to sound like the AFM gone bad.
Have you tested the fuel pressure regulator? I have seen this a few times on the Toyotas. Will do exactly as you describe. Crimp the return line and try again. If the regularor is stuffed it wont be able to hold fuel pressure in the rail so no fuel through the injectors.
Diag Codes <Click me>
Specs (Inc AFM SEE PAGE 1) <Click me>
[Note: Above links from -==L=a=N=c=E==-]
5MGE but suspect the pin outs on the AFM will be the same (Use the ST185 AFM values tho)
I'd start by checking the AFM resistance!If that is OK then I would do the same tests at the ECU to check the wiring between the ECU and the AFM. I'd also measure the resistance of the wires from the ECU->AFM.
(http://www.alltrac.net/reference/)
Cheers
Wilbo
thanks wilbo i appreciate your help.. tested the afm yesterday and was all correct, i will test it from the computer wiring and see if its ok.. Bazooka i'm not sure that its the regulator because it will run with the afm disconnected (only idle though) i'll crimp it and see though.. thanks
did checks from ecu to afm and it all checked outso i'm pretty much stumped at this point.. i crimped the return fuel line and still no go.. although i did notice that when i tryed to start it it ran normal for 5 seconds and died, did it again and it did the same thing then after that it dies immediately like yesterday.. maybe fuel pump?? not enough pressure?
Blast the AFM with Carby cleaner. Also, check continuity and insulation of the wires between the ECU and AFM, there may be a short somewhere. Basically unplug both ends, check resistance to ground. All wires (except an earth wire) should give complete open loop. Then pick any wire, and one by one, short each wire to that one, they should all give zero resistance. If any one gives a resistance greater than a couple of ohms, then thats your culprit. If they all give a shoddy reading, the wire you picked is your culprit.
This is almost sounding like a trip to an auto sparky.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
I'll give it a go, strange though cos all was working when i pulled the engine out, i didn't damage the wires in any way, just tied the loom back..
oh and afm is as clean as a whistle.. cleaned it a few months back
Got a similar problem with a mate's Cressida's A/C atm... no voltage to the magnetic clutch after re-heading it, and it worked perfect before we pulled it apart, again, didnt damage the loom etc. But still, these things can happen when you bend wires, copper can break inside. Your lucky its a clear problem and not an intermittant fault, they can be teh poo to find/solve.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
tested the continuity of wire between afm and all good.. a knock sensor not working properly wouldn't cause this or perhaps timing is a tooth out or somehthing??
Timing would give you dramas, best to double check it. The fact it runs better when the AFM is unplugged though, tends to tell me theres an issue in the AFM system.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
i wouldn't say it runs better with the afm unplugged, it runs really rough and will only idle... it cant rev.. also as the computer is giving me code 52 which is knock sensor could it be that its retarding the timing and the car is dying?? because i havn't had it running to check the timing yet..
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