Converting to a Bosch Ignition Module (Reluctor Dizzys)

[jackbyo]

Well I couldnt find any notch on the harmonic balancer (that is the wheel that you hand crank from right?) but on the engine is 3 lines saying 20, 10, 0 which im thinking are degrees?

for the good news, there's a nice hot looking spark from the coil and from one of the spark plug leads. all leads and plugs are brand new so i didnt test them all, but im thinking it should be sweet
When that worked, i hooked the +12v back up to the original wire instead of straight from the battery and it worked as well!

anyways i ran out of daylight before i could try anything else, but things are looking good. sparks all round.

maybe I can find the harmonic balancer notch in the morning with some daylight... I might buy a timing light if they aren't too pricey, otherwise my mechanic told me that he'd time it for a 6-pack of coopers pale

another question regarding the module ground... it'd be a real bitch to grind away the deadender on the other side of it as it's right up in the wheel arch... shouldn't it ground if I just sand it down to bare metal on the blue painted side?

thanks again

[RA35GT]

Yeah man those three lines are the degrees (20 BTDC, 10 BTDC and TDC). The harmonic balancer should be close to there so you can see when the marks line up. It may only be a small notch in one side of the v pulley.

Woot! spark is good.

I wouldn't grind the deadener away, I'm much too lazy for that.

It seems to work so may be a moot point now anyway. But you could put a ring terminal onto the front of the ground bolt and run a wire to the coil bracket bolt or somewhere.

(Bare metal on the blue painted side isn't as helpful because the bolt doesn't really come in contact with it so it may not be a reliable connection). (Additionally I'm not sure if the bottom of the module is grounded either).

[jackbyo]

SUCCESS

mate i found the notch in the pulley and got it all lined up. I refitting the leads which turns out were in the wrong order and turned it on.... nothing....
i could feel it trying to start, but it couldnt get going.

i was actually trying to find the number of the auto electrician when i thought that maybe i should try swapping over the 2 wires going to the dizzy, as my colours didnt match the diagram...
and then the sweet sound of success... instantly too! My 4k would take a good few seconds to get going on the old system, but with the all new ignition it turns over first go!!!

gonna go for a spin now. just wanted to say thanks again for all your help. if you wanna check out how the ride is coming along i've got a thread over on rollaclub

cheers!

[RA35GT]

Nice work mate!!

[RA35GT]

SUCCESS

mate i found the notch in the pulley and got it all lined up. I refitting the leads which turns out were in the wrong order and turned it on.... nothing....
i could feel it trying to start, but it couldnt get going.

i was actually trying to find the number of the auto electrician when i thought that maybe i should try swapping over the 2 wires going to the dizzy, as my colours didnt match the diagram...
and then the sweet sound of success... instantly too! My 4k would take a good few seconds to get going on the old system, but with the all new ignition it turns over first go!!!

gonna go for a spin now. just wanted to say thanks again for all your help. if you wanna check out how the ride is coming along i've got a thread over on rollaclub

cheers!

Zapped yourself three times I see hahaha. Use a screwdriver with a plastic handle next time

How was the drive? Should drive/start heaps better now, I know my other car did when i swapped the points out, most noticeable was cold start and improved cold driveability.

[jackbyo]

yeah it does start a lot easier now! I barely have to use the choke either

might focus on some interior and body work before i touch anything electrical for a while now


cheers

[jb_22]

Hey guys, sorry to bring up an old thread but I've got this ignition system in my 3TG and I suspect it may be on the way out.

Today I was playing with the timing, going for a blart up the street and such. One blart the car started misfiring & nosediving when opening the throttle, so I pulled up & checked everything & noticed the timing light wasn't strobing consistently & the idle speed had dropped off maybe 150-200rpm, so I was thinking the spark was too weak to induce the timing light.

So, I took the HT coil lead out and couldn't get a spark to earth holding it close the block. After checking this the car wouldn't start at all... I got pissed off & left it for an hour, then it started again o_0 but still had the inconsistent strobing with the timing light.

Is this a sure sign my Bosch ignitor module is on the way out?

Cheers, Jess

[RA35GT]

Could be an issue in any part of the ignition system mate.

Coil, module, reluctor.

[jb_22]

The coil is a 2 year old GT40T. Module and reluctor (Hall effect sensor?) came of the 3T I bought the car with, so unsure of their condition. Just had a look in the Bosch ignitor module catalogue, the BIM024 was in XF Falcons & AE82 Corollas so it should be easy enough to come by one from the wreckers. New from Repco they wanted ~$90. Is there any way to test for a faulty ignitor with a multimeter?

[RA35GT]

BIM024 was used in heaps of cars! They are way cheaper on ebay! (That's where I get mine from)

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_f...All-Categories

You really need to test the coil/ignitor under load. Easiest way is to swap bits with a known working one.

The reluctor (not hall effect, different principles) rarely go wrong.

You can test the coil winding resistances and make sure it isn't open/short circuit.
You can also check the reluctor wires arent open/short circuit.

As said though, much easier just swap individual parts (starting with the coil and igniter) with known workings ones though.

[Suavemechanic]

Hi , in my experience the modules tend to break down under load , a bit like running out of fuel as you floor it, and no one pot is the favourite
im thinking you need to test the leads
good luck

[jb_22]

What should the leads test at? I got 0.67 on the shortest one & 1.10 on the longest one with the multimeter set at 20k Ohm. Guessing this means 670-1100 Ohm? Does anyone know what the tolerance is for good leads - I have no idea?

I've ordered a new ignition module for $27 (cheaper than new leads so I'ma try it first) & cleaned out the dizzy - there was a small metal flake on the magnetic sensor & the reluctor vane would touch it as the dizzy rotated, so cleaning that up helped a bit. But, it still has the misfire in the top end. Seems like an ignition issue cuz when it happens there is a whole heap of black soot coming out the exhaust.

Tested the coil & got 0.4 Ohm from +ve to -ve on the primary side, & 8500 Ohm from -ve to HT side. From what I found online this seems okay & it puts out a good ~10mm spark when I hold the coil lead close to ground. I have a GT40T coil, I'm assuming the T is for transformer type?? Don't know if this is compatible with my setup either?

Thanks for all the input guys

Cheers, Jess

[jb_22]

What should the leads test at? I got 0.67 on the shortest one & 1.10 on the longest one with the multimeter set at 20k Ohm. Guessing this means 670-1100 Ohm? Does anyone know what the tolerance is for good leads - I have no idea?

I've ordered a new ignition module for $27 (cheaper than new leads so I'ma try it first) & cleaned out the dizzy - there was a small metal flake on the magnetic sensor & the reluctor vane would touch it as the dizzy rotated, so cleaning that up helped a bit. But, it still has the misfire in the top end. Seems like an ignition issue cuz when it happens there is a whole heap of black soot coming out the exhaust.

Tested the coil & got 0.4 Ohm from +ve to -ve on the primary side, & 8500 Ohm from -ve to HT side. From what I found online this seems okay & it puts out a good ~10mm spark when I hold the coil lead close to ground. I have a GT40T coil, I'm assuming the T is for transformer type?? Don't know if this is compatible with my setup either?

Thanks for all the input guys

Cheers, Jess

[Suavemechanic]

Hi five thousand ohms per foot is what we learned at tech back in the days, a foot is about 300 mm long, they will tend to be about right or obviously stuffed ,and I must warn you replacing the cheapest parts to see if that fixes the problem is more expensive in the long run than fixing the problem cheers

[RA35GT]

18R/18RG Green Book says 10-50 kilo ohm per metre.

GT40T is a transistor type coil (for use without an external ballast resistor)

Did it work previously with the same setup?