3sGTE Boost controllers.

[worldwalker]

My 3sGTE has a fairly free exhaust and on a nice cold night is over-boosting and hitting fuel cut. I'm looking for a reliable electronic boost controller to keep it from exceeding 10Psi.

There are a few different brands I've found second hand around the $300-450 mark but I dont know what to go for? I'm after a basic unit which I can set, know what I've set and not worry about it. Also maybe a low setting.

Thanks guys.

[JustenGT8]

Not again Do you currently have any type of controller on there? If not NO EBC will reduce boost.

[worldwalker]

How come an EBC wont prevent overboost? A simple hydro actuator can do it why wont an EBC? I thought that would be the whole point, to achive boost level control.

[JustenGT8]

OK, ist answer question, do you have any type of controller on there at present? bleed valve whatever?

NO controller can give you less boost that what the actuator alone gives you, so if you are overboosting a million dollar controller won't help you.

[worldwalker]

is there any way of preventing overboost? I cant drive the car the way it is because I'm constantly afraid of overboosting and hitting fuel cut.

[spectral]

is there any way of preventing overboost? I cant drive the car the way it is because I'm constantly afraid of overboosting and hitting fuel cut.

GAH! Answer the question!!! Do you have a boost controller at all at the moment?

[JustenGT8]

Boost cut will save you but yeah not good and need to fix asap

To help you out i need details though ie what boost controller if any???? What dump pipe? etc

[worldwalker]

Its a stock engine, 4inch IC, 3inch dump back with a 2.5ish dump. Stock waste gate no bov, no boost controller.

[-=DV=-]

check ur wastegate actuator vacuum lines and the vacuum line that goes back to the tvsv. it shouldnt be over boosting without any form of control

[BeRad]

The ct26 will boost past 10psi on a cold night with no controller and a free flowing exhaust, mine used to. Get a fcd, and just make sure its not boosting past 14psi, or you may find a turbine in the piping somewhere . if it boosts over 14psi theres a leak somewhere or as suggested, the wastegate has some issues.

As a reference my ct26 with fmic, 3inch dump, 3inch mandrel exhaust, would boost to around 12-13psi on a cold night, and run on about 10psi during the day or a not so cold night. The air is more dense when its colder and that is what is causing the overboost.

DV : Mine used to and had no leaks, the gate was fine and had no form of boost control.

[JustenGT8]

Yeah it will boost a little more but not to the extent that it'll hit the boost cut.

You have a prob. Easiest thing to check as BeRad says are the vac lines to the actuator. There are 2 ports on the actuator so make sure the one heading off to the VSV is disconnected and blocked. leaves with with just a nice short line from the comp housing to the actuator.

If these are fine then i would guess your aftermarket DP ain't that good....either fouling the WG flap or just flows so poorly around the WG that you overboost.

Could be your actuator is simply old and/or the WG flap is coked up and a bit sticky. You'll just have to cross the possibilities off as you get to them.

[mini_s2000]

hey nick, it's fabian here... hows the car going?
the car ran about 11psi firm during the day and on a cold night hit about 12- 13psi firm because of the mods it has... very free flowing exhaust and dump pipe, 4" intake and filter, huge side mounted cooler. it's never seen a boost controller because i always felt it had enough power standard! at what rpm is it hitting fuel cut? i never drove the car hard enough to experience that?

[worldwalker]

Yeah it will boost a little more but not to the extent that it'll hit the boost cut.

You have a prob. Easiest thing to check as BeRad says are the vac lines to the actuator. There are 2 ports on the actuator so make sure the one heading off to the VSV is disconnected and blocked. leaves with with just a nice short line from the comp housing to the actuator.

If these are fine then i would guess your aftermarket DP ain't that good....either fouling the WG flap or just flows so poorly around the WG that you overboost.

Could be your actuator is simply old and/or the WG flap is coked up and a bit sticky. You'll just have to cross the possibilities off as you get to them.

Not sure what the VSV is? Should I replump the vacume lines as per the engine bay diagram?

I read somewhere that the fuel cut was around the 12-13psi mark, obviously this is slightly wrong? Also I didn't have a guage hooked up at the time but put 2 and 2 together.

Yeah the car is going well, just starting to do the odd thing now.

[Jorrs]

no fuel cut is 13psi, i used to hit that on my 3sgte and do the exact same thing, just free boost, i had an expensive EBC that wouldnt work for some reason, so i went and got a 20$ one manual bleed valve, put it on and set it for 10psi, never had another issue.

[JustenGT8]

You want to disconnect the VSV line as that little bugger will cause you no end of trouble. You'll see 2 ports going into the top of the actuator. the line that snakes away around behind the engine you want to pull and block off that actuator port. leave the other short one which should be straight from the compressor housing to the actuator. That line is now your boost control line. On a stock car this should give you 6psi and with exhaust mods maybe 10psi. Any more boost than this and you have some type of wastegate issue (jeez i hope there's some rep in this )