might repair mine when i get back from NZ so i can sell it.
seems like no one wants to buy it with backwards caps :S
I used Wilbo's part numbers (saved a bit of time, especially with RS, those guys take forever trying to battle with their terrible computer system).
Part numbers are these:
15uF 35V (15uF 63V, 491-0412, RS)
33uF, 35V (33uF, 35V, 519-4138, RS)
And I've got free spares of these RS caps if anyone from Perth wants them (damn minimum purchase amounts)
47uF 63V (47uF 63V, RE6344, Jaycar)
100uF 10V (100uF 16V, RE6310, Jaycar)
220uF 10V (220uF 10V, RE6300, Jaycar)
Everything is going well since the cap replacements. I'm having trouble finding out if my cold start issues are fixed. I think I'll have to wait for the summer temperatures to drop to see if I have trouble running with the engine cold.
If anyone in WA is having trouble finding the RS shop (like I did), it is located at Unit 2, 40 Collingwood Street, Osborne Park. Jaycar is easy to find through Google.
might repair mine when i get back from NZ so i can sell it.
seems like no one wants to buy it with backwards caps :S
Does anyone have any spare caps they wanna sell since minimum purchase is 5.
Ja. Let me know what you need. I keep a stock of parts.
PM'd you with details.
I just replaced my capacitors in the ecu, but it hasn't helped my problem, the car was missing real bad and now its not starting at all, i really wouldnt have a clue what to check now..... Iv replaced the idle speed control valve and now replaced the caps, anyone know anything else i can check?
got fuel pressure?
1983 Toyota Celica Supra
mine is having crazy issue changed to several different ISCVs, new caps etc problen is slowing down from any speed car revs stay at 2000rpm have to heavy brake to stop...or little tap of the go pedel causes it to idle at 800rpm!! starting car after its warmed up causes it to idle at 200rpm tps is checked etc!
1992 - JZA70 STOCK - SOLD
Check the spring tension on your throttle body.
I had a similar problem with my GZE, turned out that the spring had become a bit weak over the years, so the butterfly wasn't closing completely. A blip would seat it and drop the revs back where they should be. I just re-bent the 'hook' end on the spring a bit further back and it fixed the issue.
I done a diagnostic check and got code 14 and code 21..... any ideas?
Here's what the codes mean:
14 - Ignition. No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running
- Open/short in IGF/IGT signal from igniter to ECU
- Igniter malfunction
- ECU
21 - O2 sensor. Open/short in heater circuit of oxygen sensor for 0.5 seconds
- Amplitude of O2 sensor reduced to 0.35-0.70V continuously for more than 60 seconds
- O2 sensor
- Vacuum sensor
- ECU
http://forum.4age.org/index.php?/top...gnostic-codes/
So from reading that i would be more inclined to say there is a problem with my ignitor causing it to run pig rich and setting off a code at the oxygen sensor right?
Do you think it could still be something else like a crank angle sensor or would it set off a code there if it was?
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