1JZ ECU capacitor replacement info

[George]

I use Chinese noname (mfg.site http://tool-world.com/) CT-936, it costs around $70 USD here
http://lib.chipdip.ru/125/DOC000125459.jpg

I could once replace heater blower resistor using this iron so I assume it has enough power

[JZA70R_92]

checked no dry solder joints... cannot be map sensor as other ecu works fine in the car

[Flex]

Should be OK. I use and recommend Hakko irons.

JZA70R_92, I was referring to the MAP/ AFM sensor electronics inside the ECU. As this circuit could be telling the micro in-correct air densities.

[dumbass]

just get a desoldering station works the best

[George]

Flex ok, and then could you tell me what temp/soldering tip do you prefer for this kinda job? Flat or round, what size?

dumbass, I can't see any application for it other than replacing the caps on one or two ECU's...so unless I find the results of replacing the caps good enough, it would just sit on the shelf and consume free space

[dumbass]

hehe i used to do niztunes so i needed a desoldering station

anyway use a flat soldering tip like a small flat blade screwdriver looking like tip
and use the corner edge
but u have to try not heat up

i find the tiny pointy tips have useless heat

[George]

Ok, very useful about the flat angled tip, gonna get one.

[dumbass]

If u goto nistune website then look t the instruction manuals for few of the nistune board installations
It has good pics on the soldering iron tip and how to put it on the leg of the electrical piece

[George]

Just been there, couldn't see a manual that deals with desoldering axial lead components. You only need to solder in some kinda connector and switch the board to external memory. There was quite helpful info on removing solder from free pads though

p/s ok, manual for the type4 does have helpful info on iron tip

[dumbass]

yer the pics on how they remove solder from free pads
u can see the type of soldering iron tip they use
i never use electric irons
just gas ones
have 4 always in stock cause they fk up
but im an expert at fixing them

[TERRA Operative]

I use the Hakko desoldering station at work which makes short work of removing the caps, however a good iron and a solder sucker also works well.
Some of them can be a bitch to remove due to the large pads acting as a heatsink, but a bit of perseverance will pay off.

A trick to getting the caps out is to heat one leg and then with the iron still on the pad, rock the capacitor to lift that leg out of the hole. repeat back and forth between the two legs until it comes out (usually 3 or 4 goes) then use a solder sucker to clear out the holes.

[George]

That's exactly how I remove em (if I have extra heat to warm inner layers enough). When at work, I would ask someone to put desoldering air gun nozzle against "tough" lead.

I think my problem (when at home) is that I never tried any tips other than sharpened cone.

[George]

p/s Did it. 100% success.
1jz-ge, 5a/t , 1998
2x 10uFx50
2x 100x10
2x 220x10
1x 330x35

replaced to Epcos of the same rating (NON-low-esr however, just good brand with stock availability). Immediately noted it greatly improved cold start. Not sure about the rest, but going to do second ecu of the same type to confirm the result.

[TERRA Operative]

Epcos are a pretty good brand, and low ESR in this application is a non-essential nicety. Good to hear another ECU is fixed.

[George]

Think I should say a couple words on the effect of the procedure.

Initially, when I replaced 4a/t with 5-speed unit (+new ECU, new loom, ETCS-i throttle) I noted low idle upon warm-up. I thought it was some etcs-i feature as the engine continued to start fine. However it got worse as outside temp went lower . To the point I could hardly start it when it was -15C (heavy missing, low rpm). I borrowed a second ECU with the same result. So I thought the problem was the engine itself.

However, after caps replacement warm-up idle jumped to well above 1000 rpm, and now engine starts quick and nice even in -10C.