the gaskets are different, Acl about $70 -80 bucks VRS kit $140-170.
Just bought them myself.
NO they are different.
Order yourself a new VRS set.
I ran around with a blown head gasket for about 2 weeks, it didn't like it but got it fixed.
Roscos
the gaskets are different, Acl about $70 -80 bucks VRS kit $140-170.
Just bought them myself.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Last time I bought an ACL / durapro one it was around the $60-70 mark.
Durapro ones are graphite coated. A lot of people recommend those.
The ACL one from the VRS kit was rubber coated.
Personally I like the rubber coated ones. They don't leave little flakey bits everywhere and they are a shit load easier to clean up without getting tiny pieces of gasket in your cylinders.
We've blown and had problems with the graphite ones before, but never had any problems with rubber coated ones (entirely black surface, not just little sealing rings).
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Sag.
If you're pushed for time, I'd be getting a cheap 18R-C one (whatever you can get (ACL ezy-fit cardboard are cheap but I wouldn't recommend them) and making it fit. All you'd need to do is modify the timing cover holes, the rest is all the same.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
my mate from tafe at his workshop they rebuilt a 18rg for a ra40 race car this 18rg had mechanical injection and my god did it sound hornwish i had a vid of it before it went
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yeah i was pushed for time, but after taking the old gasket off, i reused it but with the halmar spray, all came up good. cheers for a ll the help.
Turbo flutter. : Its like a burp and a hiccup at the same time.
www.swmotorsport.com.au
Toyota 18RG - Gasket Cylinder Head A$70.00 (inc)
Toyota 18RGEU 4cyl 2.0L (Imported) - Top Half Kit A$175.00 (inc)
These are KP brand gaskets, and are a high quality japanese made item. Although I have been told the head gaskets they use are all genuine. I bought a set off them recently (full set, $230) and the gaskets are of a far higher quality than any ACL or Ezyfit item I have ever used (so far now have used 3 gasket set brands on 18R-Gs and these are the best, and the same price). The head gasket I got in my kit was rubber coated. Still going to use Hylomer as an extra seal.
On another note, my back yard is now filled, so I will be getting back into the 18R-GTE project in the evenings.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
just bought a rising rate fuel regulator for the 18rgeu.
my setup at the moment is,
-Bosche pump to regulator (std type) to fuel std geu fuel rail.
-return to tank through regulator.
Where should I pipe this new one in or should I replace the regulator on the return line?
While leaving the std one near the pump.
My fuel pressure is at 38psi at the moment. trying to bump it up to 42-45psi
any ideas where and how this should be situated?
this is the one I bought![]()
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Your setup SHOULD be:
Low pressure filter to lift pump to high pressure pump (maybe via surge tank) to high pressure filter to fuel rail to pressure regulator to fuel tank return.
There is only one regulator, but there should be 2 pumps and 2 filters (or a pre-filter and intank high pressure pump and high pressure filter).
Oh, and how much did that cost you??
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
the surge tank is in the pipeline.
So I need thelow pressure filter before the pump.
I'll get rid of the ancient regulator from just after the pump.
There is a efi filter prior to the fuel rail.
the next would be to replace the std regulator with this new one.
Then adjust pressure to suit application.
Sounds good to me. Thanks O_man
I've got 2 Bosch pumps a 033 and a 051 But I think the flow the same 160l/hr.
would these be able to be use for a surge tank application/
I would think the 033 flow slower, but cannot find details.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Size your pumps to your motor's capability. Your high pressure pump needs to out flow the engine. If you don't have a surge tank, or your return goes straight to the tank, then your low pressure (suction or lift) pump needs to out flow the high pressure pump. If your return goes to the surge tank, then your low pressure pump just needs to be able to keep up with the motor at the maximum amount of RPM you will sustain for more than half a minute.
The low pressure filter or pre-filter needs to be before any pump to protect the pumps from dirt etc. The high pressure filter needs to be after the pumps and before the fuel rail to protect the injectors and your cylinders.
The pressure regulator needs to be after your fuel rail but very close to it to maintain a consistent pressure in the fuel rail (an inconsistent pressure will throw your tune out badly)
You need to find out flow and pressure details (preferably in graph form) of your pumps to work out which one will be the most suitable. Oversizing a pump can cause you to heat up the fuel uneccesarily, and undersizing has much worse consequences.
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
[QUOTE=o_man_ra23]Size your pumps to your motor's capability. Your high pressure pump needs to out flow the engine. If you don't have a surge tank, or your return goes straight to the tank, then your low pressure (suction or lift) pump needs to out flow the high pressure pump. If your return goes to the surge tank, then your low pressure pump just needs to be able to keep up with the motor at the maximum amount of RPM you will sustain for more than half a minute.]
trying to get my head around this bit.
The rest I'm ok with. Sounds less complicated, if I just add a surge tank.![]()
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
it's simple rocket surgery!!
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
why would any body have two pumps without a surge tank?
I can understand the newer cars with a lift from there tank, but on a geu why would you use a lift pump (out flowing), the pressure pump, hence two pumps?
At this stage I am using 1 pump on the car, but own 2(the 033 and the 051)![]()
Your not kidding about rocket science!
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
A low pressure lift pump is needed to suck the fuel out. High pressure EFI pumps can't suck. So unless you have an in-tank high pressure pump, you need to feed it with the low pressure pump. The low pressure pump needs to out flow the high pressure pump to prevent cavitation, which can quickly either burn out your EFI pump (best case) or start a fire (worst case)
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
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