For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Omegaman]

Lets see what extra info i can give.
1. i have added the short vid of the injectors not firing. see back 6 posts. Javal, as per yr 2nd paragraph. cheers for that.

2. Emangae has run, but with no values, so no additional info was inputted till i have the issues fixed. Ie fuel pump wiring/relays..
each time i ran new injectors with emange, i did change the values of std 210cc to the new injector CC's, which it then gave me a % change.
the larger injector ie. 440cc did not run with the emanage, meaning it wouldn't kick over and start, lots of fuel smell. i assumed too big.

3. i have removed the emanage and re-checked all the wirings that were spliced. Its now to running as per normal ECU.

4. if the ecu wires #10 And #20 have a connection issue, i presume i wouldn't get power to the plugs. (see vid where all plugs powered equally.)

5. As per my wiring diagram. theres no other changes made. we have ECU plugs correct, 12 volt, fuel pump, earth, Afm. thats all off meamory.

The coil will be replaced, just in case. re-checking my multi meter, also.

So FYI, i have total of 3 vids posted above for yr perusal. Between these checks i hope we can unravel this mystery.
To be honest, after revving it with 2 cylinders firing, it should be awesome when 4 fire. there is some potential in there.

O_man & Javal i do appreciate your input. thanks heaps.
Also. Pagie84a, i wont make a pipe, i will just punch out the bits through the converter. Its spitting out black particles from the exhaust.

[Javal]

Your statement regarding circuits #10 and #20 supplying power is incorrect.

Injectors ahould have power all the time when the ignition is on/ efi relay powered. #10 and 20 are ground circuits to the ecu, so the ecu can provide an earth for the injectors. E01 and E02 is that injector earth. Consider the ECU to be a switch with #10 and E01 on either side.

I'll reply in more detail tonight when i can get myself in front of a computer.

[Javal]

Cool. Injector circuit goes like this:


I've labelled it with #10 and E01 - which is the driver circuit for Injectors 1 + 2, however the circuit for injectors 3 + 4 is identical, substitue #10 for #20 and E01 for E02.

You've confirmed all 4 injectors have power (yeah?), so that side of the circuit can be ruled out. Now it's simply a case of finding where your fault lies on the ground side of the circuit. Checking continuity between the injector plug ground side and the #20 terminal on the ECU plug is first step. As Oman suggested, disconnecting the ECU connector and 'jumping' the injector plug (on injector 3 or 4), turn the ignition on (so you have EFI power) then you can then simply check for 12v at the #20 terminal on the ECU connector. If that reads correctly, ignition off, remove the injector jump wire - then check continuity between E02 and ground.

Doing these two tests will eliminate all the wiring as a possible cause.

[Omegaman]

Doing these two tests will eliminate all the wiring as a possible cause.[/QUOTE]

Javal. i'll check all the above on Thursday. I'm taking a sickie to fix this.
cheers

[ra_28]

Hey Omegaman

It's a little off topic but I think your heater tap is hosed incorrectly?

The hose from the water pump should go directly to the heater core and the one from the block should go to the tap.

When hosed that way I think the heater will always be slightly on?

Alex

[jabbatron]

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[Omegaman]

Javal. Oh, really. I'll check the heater hoses and change them. I just assumed by the shape of them they fitted to where they are now.
Come to thing of it, i did pull them out to help flush the system. Damn.

Jabbatron. the reason for the high fuel pressure was for the emanage, which has now been removed.
Which i will dial down. cheers
Vaccume seems good. I have a gauge in the cabin for it. Not that i monitor it much. Green is good. Red is fuel consumption...
I have thought of getting aftermarket ECU, but costs were high for one and tuning was even higher again.
emanage blue was $350 with all harness Eo1 screen and discs. So i gave it a go. Also i can self tune.
I will punch through the cat on thursday or Sat.

[Javal]

Dude i'd fix the problem with your injector wiring (if that is in fact the cause) first, then hook up the emanage again and adjust the afr so it is closer to stoich at idle, you have larger injectors and a non standard FPR so the factory ECU will never run it properly, you need the piggyback to be able to thne it so it runs correctly with these things.

[Omegaman]

Javal. i have no intention of putting emanage back. well not this year anyway. As you say, i want this running as per std setup, till all bugs and teathing issues are sorted.
I just want to drive this now and enjoy it, till i get the bug to play with it again.
1st thing on thusday is the ecu and plugs. check injectors, dizzy dwell, fuel presure, tune. thats my priority.
My wife says to take to a mechanic, but that defeats the trial and error ( which is fustrating, i admit). But i've played and altered so much that it will cost a fortune just to diagnose anything.
At least i know what wires and changes i did make over the years.

[jabbatron]

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[Omegaman]

Attachment 16513
I have the Regulator vacume hose attached as per diagram.
So i would say vacume from the intake should be ok.

edit - my dizzy does have both advance and retard vacume lines. I know that a lot of 18rg dizzies don't.

[jabbatron]

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[jabbatron]

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[Zammo]

for some reason 8deg is stuck in my head but that may be for older Gs not GUEs ? that i thought was for the initial timing

i may be way wrong but

[o_man_ra23]

Grab a protractor and measure