Give me a call (you still have my number?) and we can have a look on saturday.
It is driveable, just gutless and splutters alot, that'd be awesome if you could
Give me a call (you still have my number?) and we can have a look on saturday.
Rgds, Willofan
'Growing Old' Beats 'Dying Young' - Drive sensibly and safely
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=54206
PM sent![]()
Weber Carburetors Carbs 40 DCOE 45 DCOE 32/36 32/34 Jeep. Top-End Performance 818 764-1901
found some good info here if you have webers
also....
Spark advance is the other problem you are faced with. Most factory carb equipped cars have vacuum advance distributors. This is fine when installing a 32/36 or 38/38 because they have vacuum advance ports int the carb but when installing sidedrafts you do not have this option.
DO NOT hookup the distributor vacuum advance to the intake Manifold. That does not work and is a common mistake we see. If you do that you will pull full advance at idle then as soon as you open the throttle it loose vacuum and the timing will retard quickly causing a big stumble or flat spot and very bad throttle response.
When running Sidedrafts you need to either get a centrifugal advance distributor or leave your vacuum advance disconnected and just run more initial timing. You usually need 12-14 degress advance at 1000 RPM and 36 degrees total by 3000 RPM for the carbs to react properly. These timing numbers are baseline estimates only and can vary from car to car. You have to make sure you do not have a detonation problem from too much advance.
Last edited by leso; 04-01-2012 at 09:52 PM.
Got my engine to the stage of firing it up but after a few coughs through the carbies, i checked the compression and found nothing in cylinder#1.
i rechecked the valve clearances to find #1 inlet gap is .10mm. Even if it was touch and go it should still register something on the gauge.
I squirted a decent amount of oil into the cylinder but no change at all, making me think it either doesn't have piston rings, has a bent or sticking valve or head gasket problem
thinking about pulling it apart over the weekend
nothing at all??????
3 cylinder RG woohoo
nah prob the valve
Would you even have to think about it just do it RGs look so sexy on the inside i wouldnt think twice about it, acctually i would do it right now with a few beers and a bbq
Such a beautifull motor to work on MMMMMMMMMM except when you drop one of the cam sprocket bolts down the timing case thats a karnt.
still not as bad as forgeting to put the gudgeon pin circlips back in then you pull it apart for the 2nd time (1st one to get the bolt out) because you find 2 sets of circlips on the bench
all i can say about the 18R-G is i wish i had spent less money fitting a SC14 supercharger on the 18R-C
Looks like the inlet valve is leaking. Set the engine at TDC and stuck my air gun into the plug hole with a bit of fuel line on the end of it. Could hear the air coming out of the carb throat.
Whipped the head off, turned it on it's side, filled the inlet ports with coolant and it's slowly dribbling out through the edge of the valve seat.
Might get the 18rgeu head with the bent valves fixed and put the 210 cams into that. Although that means new extractors as the pitch is different on the studs.....
Is there really that much noticable improvement between the ports on a 270 head compared to a 210 head? Engine is stock as far as i can see.
Hey all, recently aquired an 18rg motor.. 88210 block with 88250 head. Am I correct in assuming it will have the higher compression pistons? Also in the market for an efi setup so if anyone has or knows of any for sale PM me!
Cheers
Hey guys. Im new to this thread. I have just aquired a new toy another RA23 that im putting an 18RGEU in. Would i increase the compression ratio using 18r pistons? Can this be done without too many mods or am i barking up the wrong tree? Im thinking about how i can make some reasonable power out of it running NA but i dont want to get too silly. I have a head lined up that has good highish lift bigger duration cams in it and planning on getting some extractors and putting a bigger (1UZ with ttc removed) throttle body on it and running it on a MS so as to delete the AFM.
Anything else that can be advised for a relatively low budget build up?
Cheers and thanks for your time guys.
Simon
Kiwi back yard mechanic/fabricator/machinist/welder
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...t=tt1uzfe+RA23]
18R pistons are basically (if not) flat top pistons and will most likely drop your compression. You would want some pistons from an early 18RG (9.7:1) if you want to keep the parts stock. If you are changing the pistons I would highly recommend stretching your budget to accomodate some 92mm 10.5:1 pistons. Especially if you have already sourced some long duriation cams.
Glen
Someone on the sight is selling forged 92mm 18rg pistons, $400. Great comp increase. see for sale section.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Glen what pistons are the 10.5:1 ones you speak of?? These sound like they would be the gears!
Cheers Omega man ill look them up and keep them in mind if the 10.5:1 ones Glen talks of are out of my budget.
Simon
Kiwi back yard mechanic/fabricator/machinist/welder
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...t=tt1uzfe+RA23]
Also what do the numbers on the ends of the cams indicate?? 270 and 250 for example?
Cheers
Simon
Kiwi back yard mechanic/fabricator/machinist/welder
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...t=tt1uzfe+RA23]
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