For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[JustenGT8]

Item in 1st pic is a Mitsu BOV (a US DSM actually).....a good unit for a factory one.

[thdevilshands]

Thanks for the guide part numbers bEn

Cheers, Jon

[JustenGT8]

Hi Nick,

yes it can be bolted to any head, the biggest thing though is the thermostat housing is defferent for the efi as the fuel rail hits it and also the 88270 head has releifs as such cut out for the injectors, though that doesn't seem to bother anyone.

Can't remember who wanted it, but here are some of the chain guides

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_G_198...CMQG_1303.html

bEn

Got the image that shows what is what by any chance?

[Nickp28]

Hi Nick,

yes it can be bolted to any head, the biggest thing though is the thermostat housing is defferent for the efi as the fuel rail hits it and also the 88270 head has releifs as such cut out for the injectors, though that doesn't seem to bother anyone.



bEn

Thanks bEn.

Item in 1st pic is a Mitsu BOV (a US DSM actually).....a good unit for a factory one.

Maybe a noob question but i dont need it do I? and what does it actually do?
Thanks Nick

[JustenGT8]

Nope you don't need it...it's from a turbo engine

[o_man_ra23]

BOV relieves the pressure spike that occurs between the turbo and throttle body when the throttle is suddenly shut. It either relieves this pressure to atmosphere with an almightily ghey noise, or sends it packing through the rest of the plumbing system using a plumb back style. Of course, if your not racing the engine, you can easily get away with no BOV, like the 3S-GTE and many other factory turbo engines do quite sucessfully.

[Nickp28]

Thanks guys, Maybe i will keep it tucked away in the shed though im liking Rivers Trini

[Suavemechanic]

hi
any one got a part no for the standard air flow meter ?

new information it is or can be 2250 34010
thanks to wild supra i now have one,
an up till 2 am google search revealed rollin imports have one and a computer listed ,but havent replied to my e mail yet.....

for any one looking to match up a newer part the resistance on the pins
e2 and vs 49.4 closed and 212 ohms open
e2 and vc 178 ohms
e2 and vb 277 ohms
e1 and fc infinity

the haines manual gives a wide range of values ( 20 to 100 , 200 to 400 etc)
when i get it running ill put a sv 21 camry one on just to see what happens ( tho i can guess .....)

[river]

Hi,

Thanks guys, Maybe i will keep it tucked away in the shed though im liking Rivers Trini

Everyone loves Trini! Who wouldn't love a stylish, beautiful and sensually aggressive lady???

Of course, she will be making an appearance at ToyotaFest.

seeyuzz
river

[Suavemechanic]

lovely oil pump.
i've been looking to build a cogged replacement for the big 18rg slipper.
can someone who has an engine handy and apart provide me with these measurements please (a and b) - and I also need to know how many links in the top chain.
thanks.


hi just did mine ,bottom cog points at 6 o clock call that link no 1,it is the shiny one
counting clock wise no 17 is at 12 o clock on mr inlet cam
count 10 more to the mark at 12 o clock on mr exhaust
tdc no 1 cams point out and level
the gears have 4 holes of adjustment,go with the closest to 12 o clock hole
my chain is an enduro tech from precision
p no tcdr 98le
also suits 21r and porche

so to recap cams are 10 links apart
and the hot links are 1 17 and 27
once you turn it over a few times the chain will move but the ratios remain the same
cheers !

[Willofan]

This may have been covered in other places, but I thought I would add some info regarding dialing in Camshafts while the engine is in the car. Note: I had to spend plenty of time doing my home work before attempting to fit some serious cams to my engine after blowing a head gasket, so it seamed to be a good reason to do it now.

With big crown forged pistons (11.5:1's) in the 'O'ringed block, I knew that combustion space was a premium so I have fitted a 2mm copper head gasket to bring the compression back a little. The copper head gasket was annealled (heat treated to soften) and layered with Hylomar before setting in place.



I used some custom head studs extracted from another RG motor sitting under the bench to ensure I wasn't fart arsing about with head bolts to get an even torque all around with an extra 10' lb.

I set the head up with the 310 duration cams (Wade Camshafts: profile 132-5) and adjustable cam gears given to me by a mate (custom jobs copied from Kameari's). With the head bolted down to 72 lb, I set the timing chain up with cams near factory spec and the cam gears zero'd then wound in the tensioner to take up the slack and rechecked by turning it all over.





The cam timings were noted @0.042" Inlet open 34 close 62.5and exh open 64 close 32.5 with 66 degree overlap. Setting the magnetic block on some steel plate bolted to the head and dial guage extended to rest on the valve bucket and a 130mm timing wheel on the balancer (set TDC to zero first) I went about following the rest of the intructions as per the link below.

http://www.skunk2.com/camshaft_tech.php







I was surprised at how little change was required to dial the cams in but very satisfied they are now set correctly rather than the 'suck and see' method. There is also plenty of 'You Tube' clips on the subject for the 'text' challenged.

Once set with thread lock on all locking screws, I finished screwing it all together, put in some coolant then wound it over by hand several times to check nothing was hitting inside. I cranked it over to get up oil pressure 50lbs and get some fuel in the bowls. Hit the ignition switch and cranked over to fire it up within seconds. Good feeling

Got it all up to operating temp then off came the cover again to back off the head bolts slightly and retension the head to 75lb on the studs. Wacked it all back together satisfied I should get some good power. The big benefit now is with the cams and adjustable gears, I will be able to further adjust the power to where it is needed when on the dyno. Ultimately I hope to get around 180hp+ between 5500 - 8000rpm.

The 48mm webers will also cop a review on jetting and settings as well as fitting the electronic ignition and max the timing settings.

Hope this helps someone.

[S. Lowlux]

Suave mentioned Endurotec chains & I just got some Endurotec stuff.
Timing chain 98 link-----$ 18.50
Timing chain 62 link-----&13.00
Hydraulic tensioner lower -----$ 7.00
Chain guide lower------- $ 13.00
Chain guide bent pivot top tensioner -----$ 36.00
Unreal hey.
Pump is working fine. 2 weeks + 800 k's.
Owen.

[The Witzl]

Owen - make me another pump or i will come and steal your car.

[S. Lowlux]

I hope that's a promise & not just an idle threat. Steal my pusslux, you poor bastard .
Nah, I'll save you the bother & do you'S a pump.

I need from ewe, the inner rotors on shafts x two, only the pinned type, none of the staked type, outer rotors x two + one pump body & pickup minus screen. All parts should be clean & meet the spec's in Fig 6-5 & Fig 6-7 given on page 6 section 6 of the green book, Fig 6-6 is set by me. This will give you a better end result with a longer working life. NO FLOGGED OUT OLD SHIT. Buy one new rc pump if you have to. Another good thing is to start with an RG relief spring if you have one because I susspect they are stronger than rc, but I can add spring to get us up to 60+ psi hot.
Owen.

[Suavemechanic]

Does a 22RE appear in the list? That would be a logical one to start with, since an 18RGEU will run with a stock 22RE computer.

hi,any more details on this ?
would i have to swap all my input senders over ?
water temp, airflow , throttle position sensor ?
dizzy ?
old post i know but im scratchin for options if i cant find an airflow meter...