4AGE wont start. No idea what to try next.

[takai]

Updates?
What is the current status?

[Granto]

current status is i've been working so done nothing

um basically, it'll crank for 3 seconds, and then the injectors and ignitor stop going.

i have no idea why.

..
...
....!

[DeftAnesthetik]

current status is i've been working so done nothing

um basically, it'll crank for 3 seconds, and then the injectors and ignitor stop going.

i have no idea why.

..
...
....!

yeah work sucks, i could have gotten thing done many days sooner had work not been ringing my bell at 6am.

does the same thing happen when you turn it over the second time?
if so check the ignition relay(s) are clicking on but not clicking off. It almost sounds like your missing a ground somewhere, or its the ignition's thats week.

good luck and keep tryin when you have that time, when ya figure it out that...... moment.......will be all the more pleasing.

[Granto]

ecu has been sent back to EMS to tested//possibly have the ignitor replaced.

Grant.

[Granto]

Woah, long time no postyposty

so i get the ecu back, but I've also got a fuller time jobier . hah.

1. turn car to start and check spark/fuel, sparks once twice or thrice then no more spark/fuel.
2. remove dizzy from engine, and spin by hand key set to ignition, have constant spark/fuel.
3. have starter motor disconnected but turn switch to START and spin dizzy by hand, we have fuel and spark still (to test if a short in the actual start signal wire)
4. reconnect starter, turn key to start (and have my trusty brohter hold it there) spin dizzy by hand, we have fuel spark still (while engine is cranking) though the spark/fuel is a bit weaker than when not cranking.
5. this has left me totally confused.

To test the fuel, I was using a noid light to the 4th injector. To test the spark, I had the high tension lead from the coil up against the chasis to spark against.

I'm beginning to lean towards the distributer not working right.

I've thought possibly about timing and that, but i've become good at setting it to TDC and putting the dizzy in correctly, however, even if the timing was WAY OUT the dizzy should still be cranking.. right? that's what I think anyway.

there is about a 5 volt voltage drop at the ecu during cranking, but, it still flashes the noid light and sparks against the chasis when spinning the dizzy by hand.

any ideas?