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Thread: My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

  1. #31
    Im still just a......... Backyard Mechanic NoRecall's Avatar
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    Default Re: My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

    Quote Originally Posted by gianttomato
    Space for a front mount is really tight actually. Forget the idea if you plan to run AC as well.
    I live in tassie so the only AC you need is the 2WD type (2 Windows Down) you just need your heater to work

    I thorght otherwise, with the fan off it has a little more room (run a slimline thermo), and bracket the radiator back the amount you have made from removing the fan, run Front mount infront of radiator....... well thats how i saw it being plauseable anyhow.
    From Tassie?
    Join Up with ToyoTas Now - http://toyotas.proboards.com/ - The First Toyota Car Club in Tas

  2. #32
    7M-BHGE Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

    Quote Originally Posted by joecoolmk2
    have you got any good pics of this setup? so it uses the tie rods, or do you mean the whole drag link?
    No camera
    I'll borrow one when im done and it all looks nice.

    I mean the WHOLE drage link, the rack moves the drag link (from the center) from left to right. Note the only point of taking it that far is to have power steering and reduce the play from the old boxes.

    Here is a suitable rack:
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/HOLDEN-CAMIRA...QQcmdZViewItem

    You would take the camira drag link off (the black metal pole of the right) and attack the center of the rack to the center to the center of your drag link. As you can see the camira drag link (that isnt its real name, but for lack of a better word) is bent in at the center where it mounts (to two bolts), to achieve this on a normal drag link drill the two holes and put a spacer between the drag link and rack. - i welded one in a first test fit, but ditched it.

    As i said, up to here is just getting rid of that steering slack/play, to really improve the steering you need to mod the drag link to a different size (matching to LCA mounts) and use different tie rods.

    Also, for support, the after market ones have linear tracking across the drag link, to achieve this simply leave the idler arm and pitman arm ON, but some linear tracking with bearings would be better.
    Quote Originally Posted by skiddz
    deodorised fish oil = winnnaaaaaa, goodness of teh fishz but with out the smellz

  3. #33
    potato Automotive Encyclopaedia joecoolmk2's Avatar
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    Default Re: My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

    ahh, very interesting. pity i've gone ahead with the sigma box, and it's kinda undo-able now.

    so you'd just need to make up another idler arm to replace to box. have you mad that yet?
    beer me!

  4. #34
    Sleeper Central Backyard Mechanic Pure_In_Sanity's Avatar
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    Default Re: My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

    Ooh! fwiw i bought a new idler arm from the states, and it was identicle to my rhd one. So you would be able to get another standard idler, drill out the holes that are already marked on the rail, and just add crush tubes if not already fitted.

  5. #35
    7M-BHGE Automotive Encyclopaedia
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    Default Re: My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

    Yep, IF i was going to use the idler arms for support thats what i would do.
    But im not. Im moving the rack, modifying the drag link and tie ends to get as close to perfect geometry as possible. I wont be using the idler arms, ill have linear tracking, and eventually get my modified drag link made up in a billet alloy.

    Its call come to a bit of a halt because im playing with the control arms, trying to get a true lower wishbone control arm, and preferably 20mm~ longer so i wont need spacers for decent rims. But that will need a longer upper control arm as well. Currently looking at MA70 lca's.

    We need a REAL Mk II dedicated thread
    Quote Originally Posted by skiddz
    deodorised fish oil = winnnaaaaaa, goodness of teh fishz but with out the smellz

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