My MX22. 1G-GTE Or 1JZ-GTE

[joecoolmk2]

arent the mx10,12 and 22 E series diffs which are p00?

but yeah the F will bolt up

correct +10 char..

[rob]

joecool tell me more about your troubles with the rack and pinion conversion?

[joecoolmk2]

well, cuz the mk2's lower control arms are fekkin long, you need to have a very narrow rack. there is only about 600mm between pivots of the lower control arms.

[joecoolmk2]

so basically you need a rack that is 550ish mm between pivots, i never found one that narrow. and even if you did, you would then have trouble getting the exhaust around it.

[_gear2]

1ggte or jz bah! Put a 5m-ge in with triple webers and keep that retro feel.

[IN 05 NT]

1140kgs, damn what a heavy weight!, lol my celica alomost weighs in at that!....i so wish i hada kept my mx13.....so nice n clean....

plus you dont see these old girls round much anymore...i only saw 2 other on the rd when i had mine....

[gianttomato]

1JZ.
VVTi one will cost more but will be easier.
If you buy early 1JZ just high mount the rear turbo.
Use a JZS131 sump or modify a JZA80 sump.
Use a W58 (or equivalent).
Use an F series diff.
Half a tank of petrol.

[whatthe?]

1JZ.
VVTi one will cost more but will be easier.
If you buy early 1JZ just high mount the rear turbo.
Use a JZS131 sump or modify a JZA80 sump.
Use a W58 (or equivalent).
Use an F series diff.
Half a tank of petrol.

Dont forget 50 bucks for hoses and incidentals

[crowncustom]

I'm currently building up a 1G-GTE MX 22.Everything at the moment is in pieces.I know it will fit as I used to own a 1G-GE powered MX 10 which is in the members ride but now owned by another Toymodder plus there is also one I started about the MX 22 under conversions.F series diff should be up to task for which ever conversion you do.
Cheers Brett.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

I've dropped a 1jz into my mx10. Soon to be running (when i find motivation...)
It fits, but is fairly tight length wise, theres just enough room for the radiator and a slimline thermo in front. Pretty much whats said above... Rear turbo will foul the steering box, Finding a sump is a biatch...
If you want to go down the rack & pinion route, i think the width pivot to pivot is more like 475mm if you use the standard steering arms.
I just used a gt30r to tackle that

Budget $10k+ imho
Theres lots and lots of extra things that will come up along the way

Cheers
-Phil

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Im putting a rack in mine, its no issue.

You can do it two ways. Look around for the correct sized rack (needs to be small because of long LCA's [take a closer look joe, they arnt wishbones ]). OR use a "center" pull rack. These are the rack that companies like "Steeriods" use with there r&p conventions for cars like corvettes (double wishbone).
Look up Steeroids, and ull see what i mean by "center pull". All you have to do, is get a rack from a camira or other cheap center pull rack car, and mount it to your engine cross member under the sump. Then connect it straight to the drag link and ditch the steering box. Then fab up the uni's to connect the column to the pinion.

However, usually with custom steering you want to eliminate bump steer and get perfect geometry so you would want to make some other changes - this is what im doing atm.

[joecoolmk2]

Im putting a rack in mine, its no issue.

You can do it two ways. Look around for the correct sized rack (needs to be small because of long LCA's [take a closer look joe, they arnt wishbones ]). OR use a "center" pull rack. These are the rack that companies like "Steeriods" use with there r&p conventions for cars like corvettes (double wishbone).
Look up Steeroids, and ull see what i mean by "center pull". All you have to do, is get a rack from a camira or other cheap center pull rack car, and mount it to your engine cross member under the sump. Then connect it straight to the drag link and ditch the steering box. Then fab up the uni's to connect the column to the pinion.

However, usually with custom steering you want to eliminate bump steer and get perfect geometry so you would want to make some other changes - this is what im doing atm.

have you got any good pics of this setup? so it uses the tie rods, or do you mean the whole drag link?

[NoRecall]

I know it will fit as I used to own a 1G-GE powered MX 10 which is in the members ride but now owned by another Toymodder.

That would be Me! (its currently undergoing extensive rust repairs)
So if you decide to go with the 1G option and have any questions just ask.
Plan with mine is to eventualy SC14 it (using GTE cams and GZ ecu) and with the G there end's up being plenty of engine bay space for either a frontmount or even a water cooled top mount, not to mention you will still have room for PS coversion if you wanted.

but with that said i havent sen a 1J in a mkII's bay as of yet.

[gianttomato]

Space for a front mount is really tight actually. Forget the idea if you plan to run AC as well.

[EldarO]

VVTi 1JZ for clearance, decent power, but a bit of a pain in the ass if you want to upgrade it.

(VVTi isnt as common, and not many non-VVTi parts can be made to fit, e.g. ECU's etc.)

non-VVTi 1JZ if you dont mind upgrading to single turbo, the VVTi 1J turbo would be a somewhat cheap alternative, but you cant just use the VVTi gear and bolt it all on. good aftermarket support, and benefits of MAP sensor.

1UZFE, only came in auto, but is lighter, and has the potential for more power with turbos/supercharger. would make a decent cruise car until you upgraded management and a few other things to bring out some power.

1GGTE - less torque than all above, but capable of decent power, just dont expect it as easily as a 1J. aftermarket parts are somewhat avaliable.

i dont know about the MX22, but its obviously got a an M series motor, so weight isnt exactly going to be a problem (it will handle any motor you listed without throwing weight distribution too much.)

the above is AFAIK, anyone feel free to correct me, but please provide a reason, not just that im an idiot and i suck

Elmo.