Help with AE101 swap

[Kebin]

The B+ wires you will find that they branch off and feed separate components. just do a continuity test with ya multimeter to see if they connected to each other. otherwise your gonna have to feed B+ to each of the wires

[mr2merv]

Hey everyone,

So we took apart the whole wiring harness, loom and all, and are doing what JP had suggested before making the harness easier to work with and nice and clean. One question though before I go ahead and start stripping wires off. I was wondering what this black plug does...? I was thinking it might be the connector for ABS because 3 wires from that black connector go to the diagnostic connector and most of the wires don't seem to serve much purpose in terms of getting the engine to work. I'm just double checking to make sure I don't screw up and have to redo a bunch of stuff. Thanks for all your help so far guys. Here is a picture of the black connector again.




-Aaron

[mr2merv]

bump...just need to know if i can cut the connector off completely or if there are wires that i need, thanks

-Aaron

[DX20VT]

the black and the grey in the pic above are the two that go into the car.
They mainly contain chassis related stuff, a/c wires earths, temp and oil gauges signals, and a few for the multi-speed fuel pump control.

I did have a complete list of what all the pins on those two go, but that was when i did an engine conversion ages ago.

[sideshow]

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.st...uct/View/Q1467

goto this site its got everything u need to find out what the wires do

thats the most free advise im alowed to give

my diagrams for those plugs are not allowed for anyone to see

hehehehe

[mr2merv]

Thanks again for the help (or lack there of sideshow ) so far guys.

Yet another question:

Does anyone here have a pin-out diagram for the AW11 22pin body harness plug that lives in the trunk? We need to know which wires are which so we can transfer the remaining wires from out black (see above ) 22pin into our old 4AGE white 22pin.

Its funny, but we didnt even notice that the AW11 had a 22pin as well, albeit a different shape and colored one! I think this will make our job a little easier if we can find this out!

In regards to the 4pin body plug I mentioned above... it contains the following wires:

-white
-black
-black / white
-blue / black

The white obviously is power into the harness, which is easy because we have a whole bunch of power wires to choose to splice into.

The other 3 are leaving us a bit stumped! My best guess is that they provide

a) power to the circuit opening relay via the EFI main relay
b) power to the computer via pin 11 ETA on the 22pin plug
c) ignition power to the injector resistors.

Any additional light you can shed on this would be awesome!

Thanks for your patience,

-Aaron

[Kebin]

white= constant b+
black= ignition b+
black/white= start signal
blue/black= fuel pump circuit

a simple continuity test will determine these wires.. i.e. blue/black@engine 4pin plug should have continuity to blue/black that is in the 22 pin gray connector in the cabin. check them to confirm.

[mr2merv]

Thank you sir, that helps us a WHOLE bunch!!

+1 rep for you!

[mr2merv]

Ok guys, so here's the update...

We have the 22p connector of the ECU all wired up and have done pinout tests on all plugs and wires so we're getting close to our ultimate goal. All we need at this point is a pinout diagram of the black 22p connector (as seen above) so we know if or what we need to splice into my MR2 harness. I'm pretty sure we have all the necessities for the engine to run as we have all 3 ECU plugs wired up but there are a couple of wires from that black 22p connector that still have us stumped. Some of the wires from the plug go to grounds, switches and 2 of the wires to the alternator plug. If anyone knows what we need to do with this connector like simply splicing a few wires into my MR2 harness, if we even need any wires from it at all or integrate all the wires into the existing MR2 harness, we would be in debt to you forever.

This swap has been a long process in the making and we are so close to finishing. It's just a matter of figuring out what this black plug's purpose and function is.

Believe me, I have learned my lesson from this whole experience and will not be buying engines from ebay any time soon

Again, any help that anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


-Aaron

[Kebin]

I would have to check my diagrams but im sure there wasnt anything really important in the black connector. Have you got it started yet? You will soon find what doesnt work

[mr2merv]

thanks for looking into it. Unfortunately it has not been started yet. We jsut wanted to make sure that we had everything wired correctly before we put it on the engine and tried to start it. Maybe if we can't find out sometime soon we'll have to give starting it and seeing what happens a shot

-Aaron

[Kebin]

thanks for looking into it. Unfortunately it has not been started yet. We jsut wanted to make sure that we had everything wired correctly before we put it on the engine and tried to start it. Maybe if we can't find out sometime soon we'll have to give starting it and seeing what happens a shot

-Aaron

I had a quick squiz back at a car im wiring up atm and the black connector has a few important wires that you need in it... though i forgot what they all were (i should of wrote them down ) I know the most important one was the starter wire. I though i had them all written down... ill make sure i do next time.

[mr2merv]

ok everyone, just thought id start by saying thanks for all your help so far! right now the update is we have the engine in the car and are spicing into the existing MR2 harness. right now we have the starter circuit working and we have power going to the ignition, all of our relays and the ECM.
here's the situation; the fuel pump is working and pumping fuel through the engine but it doesn't seem like there's enough pressure going through the system and we have no spark as well. we dont have any of the vacuum hoses hooked up yet and we do not have the injector resistors bolted to the body and were thinking that may be the cause for not getting properly fuel pressure or spark.
we were also wondering whether or not the fuel pump needs to be upgraded from the MR2 for swapping to a 4agze from a 4age.
we are getting resistance through all the injectors' wires to the injector resistors but it seems that when we pulled out the spark plugs and check for gas on the end we cas smell gas on them but it doesnt seem like there is any liquid on them; as thoguh fuel is trying to get into the cylinders but not quite.

just wondering if anyone had some ideas that we could try to get my baby to start up

thanks in advance!

-Aaron

[JP]

Make sure the ignitor is bolted to the car, the ignitor gets it's ground through it's mounting to the engine bay, I usually grind off some of the paint where the ignitor bracket touches the body so it gets a good ground. If it's not bolted down and grounded you dont get spark.

For the fuel, you could be getting the fuel in the cylinders from the starter signal to the circuit opening relay, but if the FC pin from the ECU isn't connected to the circuit opening relay the fuel pump wont stay active. The ECU keeps the circuit opening relay engergised via the FC pin, the circuit opening relay powers the fuel pump relay etc so the pump stays running.

If your car originally had an AFM, the FC wire came from the AFM (Green with red stripe), when doing the wiring you wire this wire to the ECU plug that goes to the FC pin on the PCB (Also green with red stripe on the AE101). You can hardwire the fuelpump on with 12V to check if this is the cause of your engine not running.

The GE pump is adequate to run a standard GZE.

Jason

[mr2merv]

Thanks for the info Our fuel now seems to work properly! YAY!

I have a question though about the 7MGTE ignitor conversion, if you have any knowledge about that!

The document that is posted on club4ag regarding the conversion states the following:

IG1 (from 7M ignitor) becomes G1 coil trigger on the AE92/AE101
IG2 (from 7M ignitor) becomes G2 coil trigger on the AE92/AE101

Now, looking at the diagram for the AE92GZE that we have, the only G1 and G2 pins are the crank angle inputs to the ECM from the crank angle sensor. If we wire the ignitor G1+G2 into these pins on the ECM (2+15 on 26pin), we will be tapping into the input to the ECM, not an output.

Are we missing the point entirely by not just wiring in the coil triggers right to their respective terminal on the ignitor? Dumb question I know, but I just need to be 100% sure lol

I'm a bit confused because we only have the EFI side of the diagram and not the ignitor - coil diagram so we're not EXACTLY sure on where the coils get their inputs and 12V from. Does the ignition diagram for the AE92GZE exist online somewhere?

Thanks once again for any info you want to contribute