Microtech Lt10s help?!

[StuC]

Ive just rebuilt a jap spec gen2 3sge that i'm fitting into my st162 with a microtech lt10s and am having just a few small problems. Firstly, i bought the microtech already wired to a loom to suit and have altered slightly to fit into my car - only problem is the ISCV plug was never wired in and i am not sure where to start or how to go about running this.

Secondly Ive discovered that there is a knock sensor on the back of my engine and would somehow like to wire that in too so that i do have some safeguard there.

Can anyone help? And yes, i am aware of the microtech forums but every time i post i never get replies.

THanks

oh, and i wont drive the car far on its current state of tune. Il run it in briefly and get it to a tuner

[The Witzl]

Microtech cant do the knock sensor, and im pretty sure wont do the ISCV.

[CrUZida]

Microtech will do the ISCV, providing its a 3 wire jobbie.

If its a 6 wire jobbie, no chance.


And the tune will be fine providing you ordered it for your motor, and your motor is stock.
You can drive like that for weeks.

[RONA]

And the tune will be fine providing you ordered it for your motor, and your motor is stock.
You can drive like that for weeks.

Provided they stick the right base map on

Apparently 7mge injectors need slightly higher fuel values the 7mgte ones

I have an LT10s and run no ISCV and have had no issues doing so for 6+ months

[chris davey]

No ISCV for me either. Start up and cold start is shitloads better than my old wolf with ISCV.

As witzl said, no knock sensors can be fitted to microtech. I have a knocksense which is about $130 delivered with all the shiz required and is an external knock sensor that has adjustable sensitivity. It has an LED to let you know and also has an output wire that goes to the coolant temp wire on the microtech. When datalogging knock is shown by a sharp decrease in water temp. This means that additional fuel will be added because of your cold start settings so it is a safety measure. Haven't done a heap of testing with it as I am still adjusting the sensitivity on it.

[StuC]

I had head of the knocksense kit and was very interested - so if i hang onto the car ill grab one of those. And yep, 3 wire ISCV there. so ground, power and trigger yes?
It has been in a st162 with a gen2 before and has been tuned a little, not hardcore but higher and better than what microtech have on it. The engine is basiclly stock bottom end, ported head, slightly shaved etc and Jap not aus delivered. Guess it will be ok though to run it in.

Thanks for all of the help fellas. Cheers

[CrUZida]

Power + 2 triggers.

You'll have to find out from Microtech (or whoever you ordered the ecu through) as to which wires they have programmed to be the ISCV wires.

It will take you a while to set up. Mine took a fair amount of tweaking before it was satisfactory, but now the motor fires straight up stone cold, idles at about 1200rpm for about 20 secs, then slowly comes down to 750rpm.
The only thing it doesn't do is the ISCV doesn't catch the rpm at the lower end if I put the clutch in while doing high revs. The motor just stalls.
Just this has more to do with the fact that I'm using a 4AGE ISCV on my 1UZ

[sideshow]

hey cruzida one way of catchin th erevs when droppin from hi revs is to give it about 5 or 10 degrees timing at revs just below idle

so as the revs drop timing drops too until about idle rpm then timing jumps up abit this sometimes helps to stop stalling

we used to do this on autronics worked sometimes

anyway nothing beats the std ecu cause it knows that your slowing down due to speed sensor and it slowly opens the idle motor to get ready for the rpm drop

[CrUZida]

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

[The Witzl]

hey cruzida one way of catchin th erevs when droppin from hi revs is to give it about 5 or 10 degrees timing at revs just below idle

so as the revs drop timing drops too until about idle rpm then timing jumps up abit this sometimes helps to stop stalling

spot on the money. I've got similar thing setup in my megasquirt-II.... timing at idle (900rpm) is about 13deg, and at 700rpm its 17deg.
Also helps if you have idle drops from large current draw (eg. 200W worth of headlights)

[CrUZida]

Is that 5 to 10 degrees total?

Or 5 to 10 degrees MORE than the 1000rpm timing?

[The Witzl]

5 or 10 deg more timing.

[CrUZida]

Thought that was the case, just thought I'd clarify it.