agreed, holds a bucketload of power on a std bottom end, big and heavy but for its age is topshelf a mate of mine runs one in a 1600, like shit off a shovel.
I'm really surprised that the FJ20 hasn't rated more of a mention here. If you ever get a chance to have a look at the ports in one, you'll see what I mean. They are close to the best factory ports I've seen, bigger valves and all is good - For their age, they were awesome.
If fitted with modern turbochargers and injection, they can still stand up to just about anything now.
Strange things are afoot at the circle K
agreed, holds a bucketload of power on a std bottom end, big and heavy but for its age is topshelf a mate of mine runs one in a 1600, like shit off a shovel.
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
Made my listOriginally Posted by Ben Wilson
it's everything the SR20 should have been (save maybe it's weight) but who are we to complain it was built strong and tuff right from the start. Maybe because it was kind of their first mass market 'hi-tech' motor they didn't watn it to fail so they over engineered it. Pity they are gettign hard to find parts for.
Jordan
Past rides: 86 Hilux, 3x ke55 rollas's (2coupes,) 5th Gen GT4 x2, RA28, TA22 x3, KE10, P610 datto, RT40 corona x3, RT132, MX13
Currrent: , CA-A22 Celica living life as a Sports Sedan, 2000model ST215W Caldina GT-T manual, RT40 corona.
Originally Posted by -Totenkopf-
that sounds like a well thought out motor mate - good luck with it
you did well to get some custom rods to attain the right rod ratio - id hate to see the mismatch in the revving ability of the 3sgte head on the bottom heavy and limited-revving 5sfe block.
as for the original question, 3sgte = teh winah
non siamese block does not automotically write it off as a potential bomb waiting to go off. It is easier to work with than the (Shudder) sr20 block which is pathetic as a base for performance.
If find it a little ludacris to bring in the issue of oem blocks when talking such high hp figures for a 2litre motor anyway, as most people chasing the big numbers would want to do it reliably. Even if there are motors out there able to support 300kw + at the wheels in oem long block form, they're not gonna be lasting very long under such extreme pressures without SOME form of modification.
st162
Gen 3 3sge N/A - 146.3 front wheel hp (109fwkw) -
NOW 178HP @ Front Wheels - N/A Gen 3![]()
Soon to be hi-comp turbo'd....
People aren't talking about stock long blocks they're talking about the structural integrity of the actual block itself. Anything that is done in the way of sleeving etc is really just a band aid fix for an issue that wouldn't happen if a tough enough basic block was chosen.
unless of course it an Aluminium block![]()
Past rides: 86 Hilux, 3x ke55 rollas's (2coupes,) 5th Gen GT4 x2, RA28, TA22 x3, KE10, P610 datto, RT40 corona x3, RT132, MX13
Currrent: , CA-A22 Celica living life as a Sports Sedan, 2000model ST215W Caldina GT-T manual, RT40 corona.
i understand what you're saying, but how do you define structural integrity? is it the ability to withstand certain pressures from its original casting, or is it the ability to support upgrades\modifications to the bores, the galleries, the rigidity etc so as to withstand the pressures that a high performance motor will produce.Originally Posted by Joshstix
the way i see it, if the variables involved in the combustion process are controlled at a set level, then it alleviates (if not eliminates totally) the requirement to justify this "structural integrity" you speak of.
In simpler terms, if we ran the same external setup, same duration cams, same static compression ratios, same heads (theoretically) on two different blocks of varying quality\strength, then the signs of weakness can be attributed to the block itself, because ALL other variables have theoretically been controlled.
Only then can you really justify a comment stipulating that the 3sgte block is inferior to the 5sfe block.
st162
Gen 3 3sge N/A - 146.3 front wheel hp (109fwkw) -
NOW 178HP @ Front Wheels - N/A Gen 3![]()
Soon to be hi-comp turbo'd....
BullOriginally Posted by trd3sg
I have seen many 3S blocks that are craked on the inner side of bore 2 or three. This is where they pretty much always fail if they are going to fail. This region is solid iron in the 5S other than two steam holes. There is no way the 5S block is going to fail in the same way.
However to play to your theory. When I built my 3S it was built with a 20 thou overbore. It cracked the block running 10psi and making ~210rwkw. I had the block sleeved in number 2 and three and rebuilt it with all the same parts. Once it was rebuilt and run on the same tune it did not fail. When it was then retuned with more boost to run 245rwkw it still did not fail. With the current tune with a different turbo making 290rwkw it still has not failed. To me this is a fair indication that the block was not anywhere near as tough as it needed to be in that region.
With the 5SFE block, do the 3SGTE internals bolt into this?? Or will the pistons not meet up with the block face?? Also how much work is involved in putting the turbo oil/water cooling lines onto the 5S block?? Might be a good preventative measure to use a 5S block.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
5sfe block is 2.2 litre...... so i doubt it, they use the crank from the 5s for 3s stroker kits.
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
3S bore is 86mm 5S bore is 87mm. Deck heights are the same though so the crank and rods could be swapped in with a set of 40 thou over 3SGTE pistons and it would work.Originally Posted by o_man_ra23
run oil feed from the oil pressure sender, water from a heater hose or from the oil cooler down on the block. and return it into a stainless radiator pipe or even little bit of metal pipe to weld in a fitting... and a oil return is easy enough....
Only the shittiest of wines come in 5 litres
boosted 3rz hilux *new project* mwahaha
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...940#post134940
sounds promising... might have to look further into that, as there will be a lot of custom fabrication anyway to slot one into the ol RA23.
Cheers, Owen
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
fair nuff i know what you're saying - my point was that it didnt seem fair to compare an oem block to a modified one if you know what i mean.Originally Posted by Joshstix
still good that you salvaged the 3s block by sleeving it though. Not to shit-stir but do you think the block cracked due to the weakening by the 20thou boring. Even though 20 thou is sweet F.A still couldve struck a chord
st162
Gen 3 3sge N/A - 146.3 front wheel hp (109fwkw) -
NOW 178HP @ Front Wheels - N/A Gen 3![]()
Soon to be hi-comp turbo'd....
I'll be running an aftermarket oil cooler, as the angled base plate for the factory oil cooler off the 3sgte doesn't bolt up, and without it, the oil filter would foul on my custom exhaust manifold. I'll use the bungs on the hard pipe that'd originally be used for oil cooler lines to feed the turbo oil cooling. Having a hole drilled and tapped into the block for the oil feed. As the 5sfe block doesn't have oil squirters, I'm getting a thermal barrier compound applied to the piston crowns to assist combat heat transfer through to the skirt/underside.
All going well should be a beast of a motor. I don't expect to have it in car and tuned until mid to late March though.
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