I'd avoid using chemiweld at all costs on a car I intended to keep for a while.
From the hydro fluid getting into it.Originally Posted by sbyder
I'd avoid using chemiweld at all costs on a car I intended to keep for a while.
As Project Sleeper said ( and I should have added it on my post)
If chemiweld is used, make sure the system is flushed thoroughly after the repair is carried out.
The thread titled "chemiweld - would you use it?" has plenty of feedback on this product.
I've used it in a number of vehicles, mine and others and it hasn't caused a problem.
I do stress that it is only a temporary fix, and not a "mechanic in a bottle"
well if you want to block the heater core go and use chemi weld , it wont flush out of all the cores afterwards , best not to use it , it wont stop leaking by itself , just put another pump on it , preferably a new one , these hydro pumps also use a plastic impeller which degrades after 15 years use , i looked thru 7 pumps before i came up with a suitable impeller and that was from a jzx90 1jz with 42 000klm on it , most of the impellers are going like chalk (poress) now , and toyota dont sell the impeller seperatly . bloody buggers
Dave
Yeah i see everyones point about the chemiweld. I might leave that as a last resort option.
I have thought about this long and hard and after speaking to a few people ive come up with 2 options. Buying a new hydro pump is out of the question as i cant afford over $1000 to fix the issue.
Solution 1. Try and find a 2nd hand pump and see how long it lasts. Obvious issue being that i dont know what condition it will be in.
Solution 2. Remove the hydro pump and fan and fit a supra pump and try and adapt the supra clutch fan assembly, or fit twin thermo fans. If i go the thermo fan route, i know they wont work as good as a stock fan, but it'll be my only other option as the aristo engine bay looks to be smaller in length then the supra. PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG.
I would love it if a supra fan would fit in between the motor and radiator![]()
whats everyone's opinions.....???
Please remember, im very low on budget as i still need to get the car complied ($3000), buy new 265/45 R18 tyres (<$800), pay for rego and stamp duty ($800), get the alternator fixed (<$200) and put on a new exhaust as its missing the rear mufflers ($150).
Thanks again
Ben
Solution 2. Get a new supra pump and convert it over to run that and twin thermos, then you know it's new and it's not niggling at the back of your mind while you're driving on a highway in the middle nowhere on a 40 degree summer day![]()
That way it's done once and you won't find yourself having to do it again 6/12/18 months down the track.
On a side note I've heard the hydro pumps are more prone to failure from the extra heat of the hydro fluid + heat of the water passing through it?
I am the sun
good point.
I think i'll start ripping out the old pump today and order a supra pump on tuesday. Is penrith toyota still the cheapest to buy the pump from?
The only thing i need to work out now is if the clutch fan will fit into the engine bay, or if i need to spend money on thermo's.![]()
how modified is your car? (if at all?)
I'd personally just go thermos
Forget the clutch fan idea, they cost a fortune from Toyota and it's pretty much impossible to get them second-hand. I looked into this a while ago for my car and gave up, the only economical option is some decent electric fans.
Norbie!
www.norbie.net
Here is an exploded view of the aristo waterpump. As you can see it can be dismantled. Part number for the seal is 16104 - 46030 for 91 -94 model
part number for post August 94 is 16104 - 54030
Jealousy is a curse
Ok, thanks
I spent half the day removing all the bits and peices including radiator alternator etc... Tomorrow i'll be removing the pump itself.
madmont, thanks for the pic and info, but i think id be better off without the hyrdo assembly. I'll be going straight supra pump.
As for mods, the car will have a catback, filter and HKS f-con. Its unbelievably easy to take the piggy back computer out and put it back in, so for compliance ive removed it and will keep it stock until everything else is sorted.
If I cant find a clutch fan locally in brisbane (just to make sure i have it before the weekend and to be sure it fits), i'll be getting a couple of thermo's most likely from a falcon or magna etc... just have to measure it up to make sure they fit. Then i need the thermo controller and i'll be set.
thanks all for your input, its been VERY appreciated
Ben
AU Falcon Fans make a good (cheap) set up - brand new they are around $200 with shroud etc.. The Aristo Radiator is a little wider than the MX83 Cressida (which the fans fit almost perfectly) so some slight mods may be needed..
as for a controller, the Jaycar Simple Voltage Switch is what I use and it works very well. You can set it to turn on and off at whatever voltage (temp) that you want..
You WILL need the Supra pulley also, as I mentioned on the phone - $80 is about the going rate $160 new) - there are also aftermarket ones that are around the $80 price.
How did you go with the harmonic balancer ?? - get it off OK ???
Yes i forgot too ad , you can get the oil seals and the main water seal new from toyota, and its a 4 hr job to strip and reasemble it but it still leaves the plastic impellor which you cant buy seperate , at least the supra pump has a metal impeller
Dave
Theres a few falcon fans on ebay for about 190ish, and i know most wreckers will have a falcon somewhere in the pile of cars...Originally Posted by ProjectSleeper
Is the jaycar switch set-up easy to install? Theres a set-up at supercheap for $50 with an adjustable switch, which looks very easy to set-up....
The balancer came off, eventually. It was really wedged on tight! But now i have everything off and ready for removing the old pump and fitting the new pump.
Thanks for your help Jason, it was getting dark and my back was sore, i needed to get the bloody thing off tonight, that was my goal.
I'll keep you all posted
Ben
The Jaycar kit, (CAT. NO. KC5377) - www.jaycar.com.au , is pretty easy to build - pretty cheap too at $30.
I used the original thermocouple used by the ECU for thre input voltage..
www.autospeed.com.au did a story on ther various other uses for this item too.
http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2476/article.html
took me about 20 mins to set up once built.
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