1JZ water pump rattling...need advice plz :)

[Draven]

if they put the timing belt out a tooth, you'll be able to hear it when you start up the car.. it will sound uneven and cranky, not nice and smooth like an I6 should be.

check any i/c pipes they would have undone to do the work... look for loose ring clamps etc or anything that would cause a boost leak.
There's a question.. is it down on power only on boost, or all the way through the rev range?

[Ribfeast]

So even only 1 tooth out will do that? It seemed to idle fine last night, I'll fire it up again in a sec and see what she sounds like.
Just got about 5-10C hotter than normal. It was a warmish night though.
Maybe the factory BOV is not good for 18psi?
What should the 1JZ timing be on idle, and how do I adjust it? I can't find anything at all in search

See bottom of page about timing and overheating:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...tion=IG&Page=3

All I can find is 7MGTE:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Librar...ion=IG&Page=20

I'm using toyota red coolant and distilled water. Radiator is brand new. No leaks.

[Draven]

BOV won't affect your temperature - if two problems happen at the same time, there's a pretty decent chance they're somehow connected.
And yeah, 1 tooth out on the timing and you will definitely hear it.

the 1j ignition timing is done by the computer - no adjusting there.

[Ribfeast]

Took it for a drive yesterday, power seems normal now (yay!) but the temps are still creeping up to just under 100. Either it is a crook aftermarket temp gauge, or I have another cause. Maybe thermostat or its O-ring not installed correctly by the mechs?

[Ribfeast]

Just picked up a 2JZ 82 degree thermostat and the all-important o-ring today, so I'll have a crack at fitting it over the weekend if I get time. 82 seems a bit low though? It matches up to the correct part number though...

[barned01]

if you have a manual, take it out of gear...ok now:
to check the timing, just take the front top timing cover off.
to do this, remove the hex bolts holding the spark plug cover on(8 x 5mm hex nuts)
then remove the bolts holding on the front top timing cover (2 x 10mm bolts)
that's all the bolts you need to do and it should only take you 3 minutes or so (maybe the accessories belt too needs to come off but hopefully that should be alright).

now put a socket on the crank bolt and rotate it clockwise.
rotate the crank in this manner until it reaches the 0 degree mark on the timing cover (the notch on the crank lines up to this.)
now have a look at the cam gears.
There should be two little triangular marks on the cam gears pointing straight up at 12 o'clock and lining up with 2 white marks on the cover behind the gears.
if you dont see the marks at all, simply rotate the crank 360 dgerees until tdc again.

if the marks are not pointing to 12 oclock then this could explain something (ie before or after 12 oclock representing an advanced/retarded cam gear).

this whole test should take you less than 20 minutes to do and assuming the underside of your car isn't dirty, you shouldn't get any marks on you either (well less than if you were going to change your thermostat anyway) the only hard part in all this is getting a socket on the crank bolt and rotating it (could be a small 10 degree process at a time, but will still be relatively quick).


as for running hotter, but a thought could be the thermostat was installed incorrectly.
i don't understand why they didn't just change it, they would have had to take it out of the old pump anyway so it would have been zero effort for them to put the new one in.

[chris davey]

22mm spanner for the crank bolt

[Ribfeast]

Excellent advice barned, I'll give it a shot over the weekend

grr: You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to barned01 again.

I reckon the thermostat is put in wrong. And they said they used ultracopper sealant on it (wtf). I did a test fit of my new uninstalled thermostat into the old water pump, and it doesn't fit in the hole. Is this normal?
Does the thermostat housing that bolts onto the water pump have a recess in it, to make space for the rubber O-ring of the thermostat? I don't want to pull it all apart and find that it doesn't fit

[Hybrid]

I reckon the thermostat is put in wrong. And they said they used ultracopper sealant on it (wtf). I did a test fit of my new uninstalled thermostat into the old water pump, and it doesn't fit in the hole. Is this normal?
Does the thermostat housing that bolts onto the water pump have a recess in it, to make space for the rubber O-ring of the thermostat? I don't want to pull it all apart and find that it doesn't fit

I'm scared if they put it in wrong as it will only go in one way. And NO WAY should you need to use sealant.

I'm thinking now that maybe the sealant is blocking it up???

Yep the housing has a recess in it for the o-ring.

[Ribfeast]

Well if the sealant breaks off and gets into the engine's coolant passages and blocks it up, then they'll be buying me a new motor whether they like it or not.
Good to hear it has a recess, I can stop stressing now
The 'long' end of the thermostat goes towards the water pump right? Thats the only way I could imagine it fitting.
Thanks mate!

[ReQuieM]

Yep teh housing has the recess in it. It'll take F all to change it. Just jack it up drain the radiator. Hose off two bolts (12mm I think). Slip housing off swap over the thermos. Repeat in reverse.

Maybe catch teh coolent in a bucket so you can reuse it. Would be a shame to waste a fresh batch of red.

[ReQuieM]

Theres only ne way it really fits comfortably. you'll see it when it comes off!

[Hybrid]

Theres only ne way it really fits comfortably. you'll see it when it comes off!

What Requiem said

When you take it off if you try to put it around the wrong way it will hit the inside of the housing . So don't stress, so easy to change its not funny.

[Ribfeast]

Dammit, the mechs rounded off one of the nuts/bolts when they took off the housing/put it back on! Now I can't get the damn thing off. I'll take it back and get them to do it for free, since they were supposed to do it when they were doing the pump.
When I drained out the coolant a small amount of black particles/silt came out, along with some bits of dried gasket goop (ultracopper) that they used on the thermostat. Makes me wonder if a larger chunk found its way into the motor and lodged.

I'll start investigating AU thermo fans, as I dont think these smaller Davies Craig electrics are up to the task.

[YelloRolla]

I recently fitted the 2JZ GTE water pump to my wife's VVTi 1J. As noted in an earlier post by Hybrid, there are subtle differences.
The 2JZ GTE pump has 74mm PCD with a 58mm pulley spigot. The VVTi 1JZ has smaller PCD and pulley spigot - 62mm PCD on the studs and aprox 42.5mm pulley spigot. Apart from that it is a bolt up fit.

I decided to do the water pump and timing belt prior to taking the family on holidays. I found myself down at the workshop at midnight boring the pulley and re-drilling it to fit. Toyman 75 came to the rescue with a fan (which I cut down at 2:00am to clear the top rad hose). I finished the car at 2:20am and the following morning I loaded it to the hilt, hooked up bikes and trailer and hit the highway - no chance of driving it for a while to sus any leaks. As expected of these Toyotas it performed flawlessly.


The water pump part number 16100 49846 (as outlined by project sleeper) includes the gasket and O ring too!

Definitely do the timing belt and tensioner at the same time!

Also worthy of note is that the serpentine belt is the same part number for the 2ZZ!