Electronics help with TPS circuit.

[2JZR31]

I didn't have any wiring diagrams for SP1 so I just hooked power up to it an looked for the square wave with my meter by trial and error. Here are some notes I made when stuffing around. I may well have connected it the wrong way to factory spec, but it still works. Guys you don't need an oscilloscope to figure this out just the meter set to DC volts. When you turn it slowly (like rolling the car forward) you will see the steps in voltage. I didn't end up using a resistor. I think I hooked the blue with red striped wire up the speedo and ECU.

R31 speedo sensor and 2JZ SP1 (colours match with wiring).

[2JZR31]

placenta's ecu works fine in my car

Is yours a factory auto?

[MR 1JZ]

Is yours a factory auto?

yessum

they all are cheif

[2JZR31]

Oh yeah, you have a the whole Aristo not just the driveline

[MR 1JZ]

Oh yeah, you have a the whole Aristo not just the driveline

yeah...couldnt bring myself to just buy half

[BMWTurbo]

So BMW your running thee aristo dash cluster in your bimmer or using the signal from the sp1 on the auto , because the dash modifys this signal a bit , or really gives it a negative output to the ecu..
And dennis the factory toyota sensor is 4 pulse and the nissan one is 8 or 10 pulse thats why your speedo was up the creek . How did you tie the negative of the speed sensor to the sp1 input of the ecu or did you take it from the positive ( pulse side of the sensor).
Main reason for the questions is that most toyotas for sp1 use a 4 pulse negative square wave pulse, ie switches to ground , you can achieve this by wiring the sp1 speed sensor a bit different to how its done factory . Im just not sure if the ecu would agree with a positive pulse if thats the way a couple of guys have wired it .
Dave

No, I am using the BMW dash and as the BMW has it's speedo/cruise sensor in the diff factory I didn't have to worry about any of that

Perhaps I have the SP wired incorrectly? I used the centre pin Blue-Red as the signal out/feed into the ECU, the Red-blue as my 12v positive in (already connected throguh loom) and the Blue-lellow as my negative in (tied to a brown earth wire in the loom).

[2JZR31]

Did you ever get a SP1 error code? Is the code gone now? I *think* I have my SP1 hooked up the same way you have.

[BMWTurbo]

No codes ever...

When I bridge the Te1 and Tc or whatever they are, my check engine jsut flashes steady and constantly... no codes thrown.

http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_42.htm

Appears to me no change inside the Trip/cluster?

Link FIXED

[2JZR31]

hmm. Seems there is a prob there. You should have been getting the boost cut error code, and you would think that you should have been getting the SP1 code considering it wasn't even connected. Maybe unplug the TPS while your car is running then check for codes to see if the TPS code comes up.

Are you bridging the right pins? Have you wired the pins up the ECU? I had to wire mine in as they are not connected in the loom.

[BMWTurbo]

I did have the engine check light come on a couple of times when hitting Boost cut after I had wired it.

I D/C the ECU when fitting BCC etc... so the codes would have been erased as far as I know.

I was bridging the right pin. I connected the TE1 which is pin ?(cen't remember) on plug A at the ECU to the Earth at the diag connector.

[2JZR31]

It might be a good idea to confirm that your setup registers codes by disconnecting something just to rule that out. It seems very odd that you never had an SP1 error code, or did you never get a chance to test for the code before you hooked SP1 up?

[BMWTurbo]

It might be a good idea to confirm that your setup registers codes by disconnecting something just to rule that out. It seems very odd that you never had an SP1 error code, or did you never get a chance to test for the code before you hooked SP1 up?

I'd tested codes before SP1 was connected.

I was tempted to pull a sensor out and see if it threw a code. I might try and look at this over the weekend.

[BMWTurbo]

I will update this to reflect the few wires that I bridged across previously that were bridged inside the cabin at the large boxy plug.

This is how my wiring stands atm, though with what is connected and what isn't connected.

Fixed...

[cambelt]

Well as mos said the way its wired shouldnt affect the shape of the pulse , seems you have wired it ok , i allways know sp1 to switch to ground thats why i wondered about how you connect it , when i have wired sp1 sensors before ( the 3 wires ) i allways kept positive to the same pin but swaped the other 2 around till i got the negative pulse .
Mos says that due to the use of pull up resistors in the ecu ( is that right mos) that it shouldnt matter if sp1 recieves a positve pulse but from my experience it seems to work 1 way around and not the other .
Dave

[2JZR31]

I will update this to reflect the few wires that I bridged across previously that were bridged inside the cabin at the large boxy plug.

This is how my wiring stands atm, though with what is connected and what isn't connected.

Fixed...

I have all the ones marked yellow connected besides the stop switch. Plus I have TE1 connected. You need to hook TE1 up to get the error codes to come up when you bridge the contacts in the diagnostics terminal. (you were just doing it at the ECU but weren't you which would be the same thing). Maybe there is a prob with the stop switch wiring and it thinks you are hitting the brake and accelerator at the same time?