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Thread: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

  1. #46
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice Gilly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    That first link is an article i did a while back, here is the parts required and installation guide for those of you that don't want to dig up simons old thread!! it was a bit different (flawed) anyway. i found using S13 arms to be fine as have a few others on AE86DC, camber tops are essential though to fine tune and give streetable camber. has some brake info too

    you will require the following parts

    s13 front coilovers

    ae86 camber tops

    s13 front brakes complete with hub arrangement can use CA or SR

    suitable LCA (s13 is most common though JZX81 works as well) both are longer than an 86 arm, can use cut and shut s13/86 arm. not street legal though.

    S13 arms fit and work quite well, according to members on this forum that are using them. also they are same length as my JZX81 arms. due to the offset hub arrangement nissan use camber is dramatically increased only track.

    *A6* series rackends (later found after wheel alignment theses weren't necessary, at zero toe the rackend has almost bottomed out in the tierod end, basically i have now quite a thick tierod that you would think should be hard to bend!!)

    pair of rack boots

    bluebird TRX tie rod ends.

    8 nissan mag wheel nuts (as wheel studs have different thread)

    installation is self explanitory pull your old s*** out, installation is the opposite. fit the 86 cambertops to the s13 coilover and fit to strut towers. redrill the crossmember hole that the LCA bolts to, to 14mm size as the sprinter LCA bolt is smaller in diameter. the LCA can move around if the bolt doesn't "fill" the crush tube in the bush. so i highly recommend you use the bigger bolt to suit your control arms and drill the mount hole on the crossmember out, it's piss easy anyway.

    fit up the lower control arm, and bolt on the hub complete with brakes, then bolt the hub to the coilovers.

    you must change the rack ends to *A6* series ones (MA61, RA60, SA63 etc) or not enough thread goes into the tierod, effectively decreasing its strength quite dramatically EDIT: after wheel alignment this wasn't as bad as first expected. you can use the 86 tierod ends but the taper is slightly different so there will be play = noise. therefore it is reccomended you change to a suitable one, i can't 100% confirm that mine are bluebird ones, so i'd advise you take the hub to a wreckers and keep trying them from other cars until you find one that fit's.

    fit up some new rack boots (FYI i used repco universal rack boots didn't have to trim them or anything and they were $14 ea) thread your tierods on as far as they will go, bolt them up to your steering arm on the hub.

    you will have to redrill the holes for castor rods, not a big deal though. just line the castor rod up with the arm mark your holes and drill away.

    by now everything should be about right, use the s13 brake hoses they will thread into the 86 solid line fine. if you choose to run CA brakes (250mm) you can keep the stock 86 13/16ths master cylinder and you are restricted to a rim size of no less than 14 inches. if you want to run SR brakes (280mm) you are limited to 15 inch wheels (some 14's will fit)and need to upgrade to a 15/16ths master cylinder, you can use S13, R32,33 or 34 abs masters (abs masters only have 2 ports) you will have to change solid brake lines to suit this master. bleed it all throw some rims on using nissan wheel nuts as the thread is different to toyota, and drop it. set your heights (if adjustable height coilovers are used) and get a wheel alignment.

    you have gained

    front height adjustablity
    more steering lock
    bigger vented brakes
    track increase (est 20-30mm per side)


    it's a cost efective option if you don't mind going nissan, i feel a lot of hachi drivers are purists though and like to stick with the toyota bloodline. so you don't see it done that often.

  2. #47
    Triple OG Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Is it much harder to do putting in S13 suspension into RA65?

  3. #48
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice Gilly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    i know you can fit sigma arms to an RA65, sigma arms fit an 86 so i would assume that you could fit the S13 stuff to a celica. just need *A6* camber tops and tierod ends to suit S13 hub as per 86 guide.

  4. #49
    Toymods Club Member #194 Conversion King Lambolica's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    The S13 Camber tops fit in the Celica anyways.
    Beige.... The new Black!!!

  5. #50
    Junior Member 1st year Apprentice Gilly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    ^^^ doesn't one hole need to be redrilled, it's cool with me but some people don't like it!!

  6. #51
    Kamber King Conversion King Negative Boost's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Quote Originally Posted by Gilly
    ^^^ doesn't one hole need to be redrilled, it's cool with me but some people don't like it!!
    Elongated, and only by 2mm.

  7. #52
    Triple OG Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    awesome! thanks guys

  8. #53
    Chookhouse Chooning Automotive Encyclopaedia Hen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Lambo - Your theorising sounds pretty accurate. It's been a while since I played with this at all, so the following may be a bit vague.

    We could never get an accurate measurement of balljoint to mounting face difference between AE86 and S13. Results varied, though I think a mounting face about 10-15mm more inboard (including disc thickness) for the S13 is a good guess.

    Also be careful with your LCA selection. The RA60 balljoint won't fit S13 (or S14) hubs, it is way too small. And there was nothing I could find to press into RA60 arms that would suit these hubs. There could well be something which suits, but I haven't found it.

    I have heard that S13 and S14 balljoint tapers are similar but not identical, so using S14 hubs may require some more research.

    Good luck, and let us know how you go. I'm interested in going S14 5 stud too.

    Hen
    I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
    Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.

  9. #54
    Chookhouse Chooning Automotive Encyclopaedia Hen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Also I should add here (it's all over a86dc) but to piss off the crap M12 by 1.25 Nissan wheel stud thread, order some S370 studs from Nice Products. You can get them through Repco or pretty much any other auto store. $3ish each.

    They go straight in and give you M12 by 1.5 again. Much better.

    Hen
    I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
    Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.

  10. #55
    Car Butcher Carport Converter WDE_BDY's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Quote Originally Posted by Hen
    I'm interested in going S14 5 stud too.

    Hen
    May be of interest to you, in NZ you can get new replacement S13 hubs in 5 stud. Last I looked it was around NZ$300 a pair without bearings. I have no feedback on the quality, but may be worth investigating.

    Callum

  11. #56
    Toymods Club Member #194 Conversion King Lambolica's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    That is good news... Using the RA60 LCA's Isn't a given yet except in terms of geometry. I believe that the RA60 LCA are about 300mm long (30cm) and from there it would be a matter of finding a similar length LCA that will take the S14 Ball joint.

    Some more research on this later may yeild the wanted results. Potentially AE86 arms may work as I recall they are of similar length and the Ball joints will go in.?!?

    I know there will be more to it but ATM the whole front end conversion of mine is looking very Bolt together with minor resizing of some holes.

    Cheers
    Simon
    Beige.... The new Black!!!

  12. #57
    Chookhouse Chooning Automotive Encyclopaedia Hen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Simon, AE86 and RA60 use the same balljoints (and are only 5mm different in length from memory) so anything to suit one will suit the other.

    But I think the balljoint will be the problem. MX** arms are a possibility. I think they all use BJ314 which will suit the S13 hub taper. I know MX62 arms are 60mm longer than AE86, MX36 are 30mm longer (from gearb0x), and apparently MX73 arms are about the same length (from minorobsession).

    So hopefully some option will suit. An afternoon at the wreckers should clear up a lot of the uncertainty here though.

    Hen
    I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
    Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.

  13. #58
    Toymods Club Member #194 Conversion King Lambolica's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Ah.... My bad.... Then possibly the Sigma Arms might be worth a look?!?

    Cheers
    Simon
    Beige.... The new Black!!!

  14. #59
    Chookhouse Chooning Automotive Encyclopaedia Hen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Again, Sigma balljoint is too small, and I haven't seen anything that suits to press in. However TR Magna was once rumoured to work. JonRA23 knows more about this.

    At this length though, I'd look at MX36

    Hen
    I need a working 4AGE bottom end. Pref smallport GZE, but all others considered. Also complete motors.
    Drift Volvo. Was fun. 2JZ next time.

  15. #60
    Toymods Club Member #194 Conversion King Lambolica's Avatar
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    Default Re: Pics of S13 susp into AE86 and RA23 fitment

    Yeah.... A trip to pikkies is planned for this weekend to gather some information.

    They have a selection of MX's there ATM. I'm not up on why BJ's won't fit as everything I'm doing ATM is purely theoretical. I'm sure things will make sense once my hands get dirty.

    Ideally finding somthing a similar length to the RA60 arm is the ideal solution, I think with the LCA thread most people were looking to increase the track whereas I wish to keep it the same or possibly decrease it. There may be alot of LCA overlooked due to being too short.
    Beige.... The new Black!!!

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