Where should I start?
Sensors?
Fuel system?
Air leak?
ECU?
I've searched and I don't think I found the answers I'm looking for.
At any random moment, after spirited driving (on boost), my 3TGTE stalls, and then becomes hard to start until you wait a few minutes and then starts and runs until you go anywhere near boost again.
Firt time it stalled RACQ came out to see if they could help.
After a bit of head and nut scratching the mech pulled out an injector pulse test light and found that when trying to start, the pulse was quite weak compared to what he normally sees. He then called a tow truck and that was the extent of his help.
I got the car towed home and after a while I went out to start it and started up fine.
Tried jiggling the AFM plug while running - no reaction
Tried jiggling the injector plugs while running - no reaction
Tried jiggling the cold start injector plug while running - no reaction
Tried jiggling the TPS plug- no reaction
Tried jiggling the ECU wires - CAR STALLED
As soon as I boost around for any length of time The car stalls and I have to wait a while to start again and not go near boost.![]()
Last edited by Hulk; 21-02-2007 at 12:04 PM. Reason: Title Change -Tried to make post less confusing
Where should I start?
Sensors?
Fuel system?
Air leak?
ECU?
Hulk,
Does it only happen after you have been boosting it around for a bit or Just after you have been driving it around ? If its a time related more than boost related fault I would check your ignitor and coils (Ignitor first) It could be that they are getting to hot.
1971 2T-B Celica TA22 ST.
1973 2T-G Celica TA22, aka "The Unicorn".
1975 2T-G Celica TA27 GT
1976 2T-G Celica TA23, aka "The Colonel".
1985 3F Auto FJ62 Landcruiser
1989 7M-GTE MA70 Supra, aka "The Poopra"
History: Rods Classic Celica Sampler thread.
Thank you Tmang,
I'll check that out today and report back.
All seems to check out there. Dosen't seem to get very hot before things die. Voltage readings are good.
I think I've narrowed it down to the CPU plugs with some simple tests.
I have good fuel pressure, I have good spark. But when I jiggle the ECU plugs the car dies.![]()
What is he best way to test that the ECU is sending/recieving good signals to the appropriate places.
Last edited by Hulk; 21-02-2007 at 10:01 AM.
Anyone?????
Perhaps the Transistor for the Injectors (in the ECU) is having issues?
Cheers
Wilbo
What ECU are you running? Is it a factory item or an aftermarket one?
If aftermarket, I suggest talking to the manufacturer of the ECU or an auto shop who deals with them, see if they have come across similar problems before and can offer suggestions.
If factory, I have one here you can try plug into your car in case its something wrong with the ECU itself. But just make sure its ok to just straight-swap standard ECUs first, I know I could do it with my VN p00 commonwhore, but dont know if the same goes for these engines. If factory though the base maps should be the same..... I'll let someone else confirm that one for you.
Unfortunately Im only in the engine build stages of my 3TGTE, so I dont have any ECU experience I can offer yetHope you can sort this out, Im giving you a 1 month deadline to make it on the cruise with us!
![]()
51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
Yeah there would be no dramas with trying another 3T-GTEU ECU (if you can find one!)
Cheers
Wilbo
Cheers Silli, I promise I will try get this sorted before the cruise.
I probably should have mentioned that it's a factory ECU and Knock Control.
EDIT - Silli, If I could borrow your ECU to test that would be massif help.
I can pay you in your choice of beverage for your troubles.![]()
Last edited by Hulk; 21-02-2007 at 12:39 PM.
LOL! Just turn up to the cruise is all the payment I need!Originally Posted by Hulk
Just PM me if you wanna try it out, we'll sort it from there
![]()
51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
Hulk,
When I owned the car I had a problem for a while with the car stalling after driving, similar to this. When the mechanics fixed the problem they said it was due to a faulty sensor that was causing it to overfuel and stall. I can't remember the exact details but will try and find the receipt at home.
Jake
Cheers Jake that would be a great help. +rep for caring about something that shouldn't be your problem anymore. Thanks again.
Mate,
If you have the stock ECU etc, does it include the PC and PE sensors? there should be 3 sensors in total, the PE and PC I mention and a third which is a vacuum switch for the knock control.
Factory setting for PC (Fuel cut) is 7.3psi. Might be your problem. From memory all 3 sensors are single wire.
If not, I need to think about this a little more....
cheers,
Simon
You might have a dry or cracked solder joint on the socket connecting to the printed circuit board.Tried jiggling the ECU wires - CAR STALLED
However, because the problem appears to occur in a repeatable way when you reach boost it doesn't match well your 'jiggle' test except a possibility that the dry joint only becomes a problem once a ceratin amount of current/voltage/vibration starts to flow/happen - which is typical of dry joints. Dry joints can be a bit difficult to spot but often appear to be slightly 'frosted' rather than bright. Pins from sockets stress joints and you might be able to spot a crack around a pin. To fix - resolder. If you haven't soldered before it might be a good idea to give it to an electronics technician.
Info on the factory ECU can be found here, amongst other places:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/P.../3T-GTEfi.html
One last thing - I have heard a rumor - somewhere - of an MR2 factory ECU being used to run a 3T-GTE. Can anyone confirm this? Model, modifications required etc?
T-18 SE series 2 1982 3T-C dual fuel, now under resto
3T-GTE rebuild with fancy gas bits under consideration
AE71 CSX 1984 auto
Parts Wanted ASAP - See Parts Wanted
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