breaker bar bro... what i do sometimes is squirt the bugger with crc, put the allen key socket on an extension and give it a few whacks with a hammer to shock it before cracking it with a breaker bar..
In relation to the water gallery plug on the top of the head (11117E in picture below) i beleive this is a 17mm hex plug.
Is this a freeze fitted plug or can it be pulled out easily with a big enough breaker bar?
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600 Club Member: Toymods Large Member
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RIP - Nathan Dean (TA-022)
breaker bar bro... what i do sometimes is squirt the bugger with crc, put the allen key socket on an extension and give it a few whacks with a hammer to shock it before cracking it with a breaker bar..
This plug didn't come out with a 1m extention or with a rattle gun on it.
Are you sure this is meant to easily come out?
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I'd give it a good hit with a punch abit smaller than the plug to shock the thread, than try the breaker bar again,
Luke
You may have to heat the area around the plug.
600 Club Member: Toymods Large Member
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RIP - Nathan Dean (TA-022)
Sounds like it's not going to budge. You can always drill it out and re-tap the (rather large) hole if you wanted to.
Do you want to remove the plug and put a fitting in there for a water outlet?
SHEPPO..
I can't see the pic, but I presume you mean the ones in the valley between the plugs?
If so, I've pulled one out before with >1m length breaker bar.
From memory, it had some form of loctite on it, and was an absolute c*nt to remove. Tight as a nun.
Peewee
1985 MZ12 Soarer - 1UZ Powered
2013 86 GTS
Correct.
Highest point in the system between 5 & 6 so i want to bleed off the tapped air that causes hot pockets at the back of the motor.
I also dont want to remove the head from this freshly built motor to do the drilling.
Cruz - yep between the plugs.
Have only tried to crack them on a head and motor out of the car as i didnt want to butcher one in the car.
Advice has been to visit pick and payless and have a crack at one in the car
600 Club Member: Toymods Large Member
MegaP00 - 7MGTE Skunkworks division
RIP - Nathan Dean (TA-022)
Have someone hit it with a hammer whilst the other person is trying to turn it with a breaker bar at the SAME time.
This is a double shock at the same time & has worked for me in the past when other regular methods have failed.
Ive found heating + 3M freeze spray to work wonders in the past.
Heat the area around, then freeze the plug.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
Well I got a dong's spare head, I was up around the 1.5m bar and rattle gun, we also heated the whole head with a oxy and hit it with the rattle gun.
Then came home and tried my spare engine same deal. Massive breaker bar provided no love. Howeverholding the engine proved to be difficult.
I'm not keen to try one in my engine either hence the pickies advice.
ST177 UZS131 Crown Royal 'G' the pimping limo like daily 1UZFE 144rwkw
DST17T MS53 68 Crown Custom Wagon 7MGTE 266rwkw
you'll have to keep up sizing the tools till it cracks free.
Or, why don't you drill and tap a fitting into the bung itself and not take it out?
1983 Toyota Celica Supra
up sizing the tool involves holding the engine better,
car will probably best for this and both Glenn and I are reluctant to do it to our motors in ou cars.
also not keen to drill and tap on the car
ST177 UZS131 Crown Royal 'G' the pimping limo like daily 1UZFE 144rwkw
DST17T MS53 68 Crown Custom Wagon 7MGTE 266rwkw
hope its not some backwards left hand thread... you say you heated the whole head? you really only just want to heat the around the nut but not so close heat will also be taken into the nut its self. its a bit of a fine balance trying to expand the head and not the nut.
i also remember hearing that some locktites will give way under heat, maybe try heating the shit out of the nut??
As they say in the book, assembly is the reverse of dismantling, but slower cos you forgot where all the bits are
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