this should be able to help you out
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_518024
Hey guys, on the old forums(which i looked), there used to be a guide to convert a ke30 to a hydraulic clutch setup. Take note that i will also need info on the pedal as mine is currently auto. I believe it had something to do with a TA22 master cylinder, not sure though
Any help would be great
cheers
slippery when boosting-ke30 sr20 underway
this should be able to help you out
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_518024
Originally Posted by The Witzl
In my old KE38 I used a TA22 clutch master cylinder and bolted it into the position on the firewall where a TE3x corolla would have it mounted (they had the T series engine and matching gearbox with hydraulic clutch etc).
I then bolted a TA22 clutch pedal in place of the KE one (I may have shortened it slightly can't remember??). The clutch pedal pivots on bushings held inside a steel tube. I moved the position of the pedal on that steel tube a little (cut and weld) to line it up better with the clutch master cylinder and to get the pedal to sit in a factory location when compared to the other pedals.
Given yours is auto it might be best to grab the pedal box from a manual KE30-55, bolt that in and then go from there.
It is very easy to setup the hydraulic clutch and as soon as you have a look at the firewall and the pedal box it is very clear what you need to do to get it all to work well.
Good luck.
NB. pretty sure that you could most likely mod the KE clutch pedal to work with the TA22 master cylinder by simply ensuring it is lined up and drill a hole in the pedal arm in the appropriate spot for the clevis pin. I did this setup about 10 years ago so it is hard to remember exactly every step
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
thanks guys thats exaclty wat i needed
cheers
slippery when boosting-ke30 sr20 underway
yeah nothing on the net is preceice enough, add me to msn ill send you some photos.
[email protected].
i can help you.
Originally Posted by river
someone on here did exactly that. seems the most simple solutionOriginally Posted by YLD-16L
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
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I can't remeber the reason I used the TA22 pedal over the stock KE one?? It was back before I was gathering info on the net too so my choice wasn't influenced by anyoneOriginally Posted by oldcorollas
I had both pedals and for some reason I can't remember I thought the TA22 one was the best one to use. That pedal setup I made way back then is now levering a 2700lb clamping pressure clutch without a worry
Perhaps the hole it had in it for the clevis pin was enough to sway me back then - one less hole to drill
My KE25 thread
WSID - 12.8@108mph || Wakefield Park - 1:11.4 || SDMA Hillclimb - 49.1
you use the ta22 pedal because the way its set up with the piviot points is to push the rod rather than pull the cable.
the pedal does need to be shortned
Originally Posted by river
It can be done with the standard manual pedal box. Get yourself a pedal box from a manual KE55 (the studs that you mount the clutch M/C onto are supposed to be longer on the KE55 than the KE30/35).
Next you need to cut away some of the metal below the pivot to make way for the actuator rod for the M/C and drill a hole in the pedal arm like this.
(NB, I bought this pedal box as is so don't blame me for the rough cutting )
Next you sit the pedal box in place and mark the center of the hole between the two studs that go through the firewall. Drill this to the same size as the hole in the pedal box. Mount up the pedal box and the M/C.
You can use the clutch M/C and slave off a TA22, an AE71 corolla or an AE86.
Brad
Old Corollas never die...
My KE30
Updated 15/7/2007............ yes, I need to pull my finger out.
thanks guys, will do this weekend, i'll let u know how i go
greatly appreciated
cheers
slippery when boosting-ke30 sr20 underway
If I remember, when I did mine a couple of years ago, I used TA22 parts, and the place for the holes for the cylinder was present on the pedal box - I just stabbed holes in the firewall, then finished it off with the die grinder. Couple of minutes work and all looked good:-)
Can't remember, but I THINK I used the TA22 pedal???
ive sourced the parts and should be picking them up sat, will let u know how i go
cheers
slippery when boosting-ke30 sr20 underway
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