putting a GT oil/amp guage into a LT (2T) TA22

[hamza]

I will be importing a oil/amps gauge from the us, it is out of a 22r engine and i was wondering what else would i need to complete the conversion to my 2T, i will also be upgrading the engine to the 18rg after. Any help much appreciated.

Hamza

[OXR]

Scott,


The Yellow/White wire is the signal from the alternator which would have powered the CHG idiot light in the original guage. Its no use to you any more.

The Yellow wire is the power feed to the oil pressure guage.

Hi, just for completeness, the original charge light wire (which ends up on terminal L of the alternator) does need to be connected for the alternator to charge, at least it did with me (4age). Might save you a long walk to a servo that sells batteries when the car dies.
So Yellow/White wire needs +12v or bridge L to IG at the alternator.
cheers
Mat

[jb_22]

Hey guys, I have a GT oil/amp gauge that has had the plug broken off the back of it. What I want to know is can I run the earth (white black) to the mounting screw. I think the earth was one side of the globe terminals originally. The power feed & oil pressure sender lines are the 2 small screws on the back which I can just put small ring terminals on, so that's easy enough.

[ToyTA22]

I know thread is old, but i have a GT amp/oil gauge which is from american RA model and didn't think about differnet housing mounting i.e mounting lug and angle of gauge.
Has anyone tried fitting gauge internals into RHD warning light housing.
Any help would be appreciated

[Gold28]

Hey guys, I'm putting one of these in the white car at the moment and have a few points to add.

I've had a good look at a couple of original ST's and a GT dash loom. From factory, the ammeter wiring simply replaces the line from battery to alternator. So for a conversion from an LT setup you need to disconnect the existing charge cable between the alternator and the fusible link at the battery and run a cable from the fusible link to the ammeter then another from the ammeter to the alternator.

Make sure you use cable that can support 50 amps cos a flat battery will suck all of that through your ammeter. Also make sure you use the fusible link as this is what protects your ammeter and all that cable from melting.

I'd also advise finding some insulation boots like in Mikes photo. Those studs carry enough current to weld with so you don't want anything conductive going anywhere near them. Finding those boots ain't easy though. I've ordered some from the UK and hopefully they are the right size. I couldn't find anything in Sydney. The closest I could get was liquid insulation which I wasn't particularly keen on for this.

Cheers guys, have fun.

Anthony.

[moltenash]

Hi ToyTA22,

I had to do this for mine as well. I set up a quick jig using my existing gauge and then cut the two tabs off the new US gauge. Put that gauge housing in the jig and then tac welded the tabs that I had cut off back in place where they needed to be. The jig was very basic and just kept the housing in the right place relative to the two mounting tabs. Put the gauge back together and your good to go.

I did look at using the original gauge but that would involve cutting the entire back plate of the housing off which seemed like a much more difficult task.

Hope that helps.

[George]

A couple words on oil pressure senders
83520-30010 is correct but a bit costly
Toyota has other pressure senders (not just switches) which are cheaper: 83520-14020 , - 14021, - 14022, -14023
Auto gauge has their own sensor with 1/8 NPT thread that would probably suit, too. It's only ~$20 worth