Good to see you're still around mate!
I've sent you a PM
Cheers
Phil
Originally Posted by 1JZ-Rolla
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.... "ARROW DIFFS" .... still the name lives on!!
i stopped advertising years ago when i started racing as i just didnt have time anymore, it was my little sideline business
i still have all the jigs and little forge etc and still do them for mates or fellow racers etc anyboby for that matter who still wants one, cheeper too now that i dont advertise
basically if you do any welding to a diff it will... from that point on.... be ROOTED!![]()
(edit: the steel used to make spider gears are very high tensile and can never be welded with any great strength)
it will distort and/or crack, you wont get a consistant mesh on your crownwheel so it will fail premiturly, the axle spline spider gears will be out of alignment as the weld pulls them over so your axles will break sooner than they should, and its often only a matter of time till the whole thing breaks up
if its cast with lead this works fine but its heavyand will work a little loose, exagerating the chug -chug action when mavouvering hammering axles etc
casting with alloy is the only way to do a proper "spool" type centre, it actually increases the strength as the load is now spread over all the spider teeth and tho whole hemisphere
ive done them for over 15 years, ever since i raced on dirt tracks! i have never seen one fail yet and it dramatically increased axle life when i started to use this locking method, i even used one as an everyday driver for about 4 years!! .. never had an issue
Last edited by 1jzracing; 15-07-2006 at 10:15 PM.
Good to see you're still around mate!
I've sent you a PM
Cheers
Phil
just been asked about prices for alloy cast locked diffs
if anybody is interested i getting a group discount for some let me know
i used to charge 250 for a diff but now im all set up and done so many i can do it for less
its a hastle firing up the forge to just do 1 at a time, if i can do a few its much cheeper ... $100 ea if i can do 3 or more
i can lock ones that have broken or damaged spiders too
I welded up the KE70 diff today, took the back hat off and spewed in as much steel at possibleAs ive said before.. if you are welding a diff, its not for a 'good' car.. get a proper spool..
just out of interest, wouldn't the casting the ally into the centre change the steel anyway?
pmed you mate, very interested!Originally Posted by 1jzracing
blake![]()
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After driving it around today, frankly, i don't know why anyone would want one![]()
Originally Posted by SL666
ahahaha there loud and rough....but there bloody fun!![]()
not in something with no power.. ours is in a stock KE70.. it was kinda slidy and fun, so we thought lock up the diff and she'll be even better!its now the worlds safest car with levels of traction that would make a top fueler envious...
i did it in my ae71 with ge, best thing i could have done to it as a budget silder.
back from the dead
Just wondering if those people with welded centres (preferably solid rear end not IRS) have tried spinning their wheels by hand with the rear end up? I have been adjusting brakes and they are definitely not stuck on anymore but the rear end still seems pretty tight to spin. I understand there is more weight to turn now but does yours spin freely or is it a little tight?
it will be tighter with a locked centre, but shouldnt be overly hard to turn with a wheel on...Originally Posted by chris davey
if you have to give it a bit of force, id say something is mashing inside
It was welded by a good mechanic but the dickhead welded the plate pretty much straight over the axle holes. There was 50mm of spline on the axles and 40mm of that was in contact with the diff. We have taken off I think it was 11mm on 1 side and 9mm on the other but the axles went in easily and there wasn't any stress on the axle when doing the bolts up on the backing plate.
We did checks by putting grease on the end of the axle and putting it fully in to see if there were any marks on it and there wasn't any.
Also, if the axle is just touching the bit of plate I can't see why that would stop it from turning easily anyway as they both spin at the same speed.
wheels usually spin easy on single leggers because they are just turning the spider gears, eg one wheel goes forward, one goes backward.
with a locker its turning the crownwheel and everything in the transmission when you turn one wheel.
not true, youll definatly lose traction at the arse and if your not ready for it youll spin, but its not uncontrollable unless your going so hard that you get nailed by basic physics. In a well balanced car I get it sliding using throttle lift and then push it back down again to steer it around the corner(s)Originally Posted by Billzilla
GA23(never finished-now with cracked block) JZX83 (Tyre eater) 3sgte AE86. by now i should know better.
I stick with my normal opinion, you shouldn't weld the diff on a streeter.. unless its a real shitbox..
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