4age rod in a 4ac??

**Nim** · 04-07-2006, 06:05 PM

rep = Reputation, there are whole threads about it around. See how I have 89, you have 10, and OldCorollas there has 523? That's 'cuz he has posted a lot of usefull information (or has provoked some interesting thought, or made some funny jokes). OldCorollas knows his shit, as does (as loathed as I am to say it) kingmick, so I'd listen to them (and me, and not bother with 4A-Ct). Leeroy seems to too, but I haven't seen his other threads.

Anyway, I think I've given you enough warnings, so when this costs you more than you expected and gives you shit all gains, please don't come complaining to any of us.
If you're dead set for this 4A-Ct buisness, I'd say do it as cheap as you can. Don't bother with the head gasket or rods. Do it cheap, when it goes pop, it wont be a surprise or any big loss. Opening it up then not rebuilding it is likely to counteract any extra reliability from the new rods, and as oldcorollas said, the HG idea is a silly one. Just run low boost daily, perhaps 5psi. If you can get the tune right that might be okay. Run 10 at the track, but expect it to go at one of your track days, so make sure you have a trailer nearby or available to tow it home.

**Shakotan_Aaron** · 04-07-2006, 06:19 PM

yea mate why would i come back and say you guys are arse wanks if my project falls in a heap?? maybe this is happened in the past but i am not like that, and you have warned me. but in all due respect there havnt been that many people have been bothered to do this and you are one of them. and i know what rep is, just i couldnt workout what you where going on about with the clicking...

secondly i never asked anyone about the worth while about this project, my question was about the rods. i appreciate constructive critersisum but to say DONT thats a bit harsh, i have stated that i know what i will have at the end of it so people who tell me what i have all ready stated just gives me the pips...

**Cuzzo** · 04-07-2006, 07:02 PM

This thread is very funny. If you know everything then why bother asking toymods what will fit or not.

In everyones opinion get a 4age. Save your dollars, Go deliver pizzas or something. You will only have to work for about a month and be able to pickup a 3 rib bigport motor and turbo that getto style. It will last longer than the 4ac and probably better on fuel aswell(saving you money in the long run).

But Do what you want and surprise us all

**Shakotan_Aaron** · 04-07-2006, 07:18 PM

glad you got a laugh

just that they arnt that cheap in tassie, and the it dose cost a fari bit in shipping..it would probaly cost aroung $1200+ to put a big port in i recon i can turbo the 4ac for around $500 maybe a bit more. so thats why im considering this project. although it will be one hungery mother on fuel!!!

**LeeRoy** · 04-07-2006, 08:23 PM

Originally Posted by ae71

also LeeRoy, a fairly conservitive tune meens he was running plenty of fuel through so it wouldnt ping (detonate) thats not the same as trying to run 20 psi through it. dont know what condition the motor was in previous, how strong it was, how much boost he was using or how he was driving it. im asuming that he would of been running stock boost which would probaly be 13+psi, which is a fair amount to run through a N/A motor without decompression ect. bare in mind im not planning on using more then 10psi on a hard core day, with every day boost around 7psi.

Conservative as in it wasn't leaned right out and the timing was fairly subtle also which means it wasn't even close to pinging.

The motor was fine as it was in the car for a long time and was standard and well looked after. It didn't run standard boost but rather around 16psi at the most but then it would be set lower on around 12psi.

Keep in mind it's not boost that kills engines, it's RPM.

My point being is that this friend of mine was running all the best shit on a bog stock n/a starlet motor wheras you are on a budget tighter than a dolphins arse. This will greatly affect engine longevity.

On a side note i just remembered this crazy backyard ke70 ages ago out near the airport when me and my mate were looking at a car. Anyways this guy had a stock rolla motor, probably 4ac like you and it seemed he was ok with a welder.

From what i could see it was the nastiest looking thing on the planet. He had designed a manifold out of old vacuum cleaner pipes and smacked a piss small turbo on it which as it's not a cross flow head blew charged air back into the motor without a cooler. For injection he had set up one of those italian carbies with the boal on the top in front of the turbo.He had also used an old air con condenser bottle thingy to make an oil catch can.

It was pretty cool now that i think about it. All the best

- LeeRoy

**psychofox** · 04-07-2006, 08:30 PM

Yes you'll have to use an early type rod (3rib block, bigport head) with the 18mm gudgeon which is press fit. The later blocks ends with 7 ribs (with either bigport, smallport or 20V heads) have a 20mm floating pin which is unsuitable.

**Shakotan_Aaron** · 04-07-2006, 08:41 PM

thanks psychofox, just to confirm, 3rib, bigport rods will fit without moding but the gudgeon pin will need to be pressed in. this is into the standard 4ac pistons right?

just want to make shore

well boost can kill engines, so can exsesive rpm... but on the conterary, i know a bloke who revved his stock 4ac out to 7 grand (he belived that toyota made a mistake with the tacho redline), he also drove it for a month without oil before it gave up the goast. try doing that with any modern engine, see if it lasts a month revving it 1000rpm past the factory redline without oil!! on second thoughts, dont because you will root it and it will last a matter of days, not a month. also it will be costly just to make a point.

thanks for the suport.

**psychofox** · 04-07-2006, 08:48 PM

The only way you're going to be absolutely 100% sure is by cracking the head off, pulling the pistons and rods out and measuring them - sometimes toyota have done weird things in the past - such as the 6 flywheel bolt 4AGE (normal is 8bolt) and I have heard a 20mm/40mm 4AGE rod exists. That said I'm very confident that 4ACs have an 18mm/40mm rod.

**Shakotan_Aaron** · 04-07-2006, 08:58 PM

Originally Posted by psychofox

The only way you're going to be absolutely 100% sure is by cracking the head off, pulling the pistons and rods out and measuring them - sometimes toyota have done weird things in the past - such as the 6 flywheel bolt 4AGE (normal is 8bolt) and I have heard a 20mm/40mm 4AGE rod exists. That said I'm very confident that 4ACs have an 18mm/40mm rod.

thanks, it woul be good if somone was any rods lying around, as i have 4 4ac rods, but they are in the motor