2jz crank pulley bolt removal

[Draven]

yes ed, I remembered that bit

[ed]

just checking

[kingmick]

sorry i forgot about them not being sprung! good catch ED!

[2JZR31]

You need to SMASH IT. The shock of a hard smash will crack it unlike a massive but more gradually applied hit of torque.

Lift the front of the car up a bit. Use a big breaker bar facing downward. THEN SWING A SLEDGE HAMMER INTO IT. Keep hitting it will come :-) I used the back of a massive exe I had it took about 20 hits. Also rotate the engine until you feel its on a compression stroke to limit the engine just turning over when you hit.

[Draven]

you're maybe a page or 2 behind where the conversation has gone (unless you use a sledge hammer to tighten our timing belt or remove spark plugs?)

[2JZR31]

Couldnt be fucked reading, just wanted to help the original problem

[Draven]

and to make life even more fun, I gave the crank pulley bolt a good tap with breaker bar+hammer to see if it was still tight, and it promptly broke the loctite and came loose. now that's confidence!

[kingmick]

yes but thats diffrent force than you get on the bolt! you just broke the loctite seal like you would with a rattle gun
surely some one close can lend him a compressor and rattle gun? come on guys!
you can borrow mine if you come and get it

[Draven]

yeah, I know
the tap with the "hammer" was more of an accident

Since it seems less likely to be timing belt slipping a tooth, I'll give a description of the problem and see if anyone can work something out.

All this started after a full power run. It was driving fine before and during the run, then I noticed it was lumpy and hesitant. The problem is most pronounced at low rpm under high load. as soon as the turbos kick in, the problem is barely noticable at all (ie: it becomes a smooth ride) - but there is nowhere near the usual sort of power. At idle, it's a little bit lumpy and the exhaust pops.
The reason I assumed this was timing related is that my 1j slipped a tooth when the tensioner died, and presented with similar (albeit more severe) symptoms.. I just assumed the vvti was making it less severe

HELP ME!

it doesn't feel like a dropped cylinder... not lumpy enough.

[kingmick]

valve spring!

[dori dori]

Greg, did you time it up off the same marsk as when you took the belt off? Can you see the two different timing marks on the cam gears? They are about 20 degrees apart. There is also two timing marks on the crank gear. When i did mine i didn't notice there was two different sets of marks and my 2JZ wouldn't start as the Haltech was trying to fire on the wrong spot for TDC.

Just a suggestion.

Cheers

[Draven]

yeah, I double checked that dori - the fact that it ran perfectly for 2 days before this happened tells me I did it right, but either something has come loose or something else has fucked up.

[Draven]

mick - you're not allowed to suggest anything related to engine internals
seriously though, if I had to take a guess it's a mundane problem. chances of valve spring going vs somehting from my repair screwing up?

[kingmick]

but i thought it was like that before your repair?
and sorry only going of what you said! could have said bent valve
did it do it on the power run or after?
it could be something as simple as a exhast leak,vaccum leak etc!

[Draven]

no no, not at all.
post repair it was fine for 2 days, then this happened. It doesn't feel/sound like a vac leak.
Would a bent valve/spring become less noticable on boost?