7MGTE running rough, SAFC Related

[doobs]

Ey all,

Well today I finally got the car started, there were no real hassles, it just started. There are a few issues though...

Just to cover it, I replaced the HG on my 7MGTE with a standard one - used arp studs - replaced timing belt, clutch, all hoses, added lex afm - 550s - safc.

- The engine sounds a bit rough, not treble but its not perfect. I’m using a 1UZFE afm & 550s. According to the voltage between E1 and Vf voltage (was 0v) the ecu is trying to lean out the mixture, indicating its too rich. I have an safc installed but I have not connected the afm wires. Are there any sites that can give me a good explanation on tuning it? Ive done the timing, 10deg with TE and E1 jumpered, and bout 13 when running normal, Is there anything else I can do to get it running smooth?

- Something’s wrong with the power steering pump, it now makes a nasty noise all of the time, especially when I steer, it never used to. When the car was sitting there for like 3 months, the pump was sitting on its side, full of fluid... could it have air or something in the fluid?

- Sounds like there is a clunk in the driveshaft... Im going to investigate this when I adjust the cluch, but yeah it clunks a little when I just release the clutch. expect a little more in here about this issue.

- Im also looking to install my oil pressure gauge line, somewhere on my 7M, most likly in the 1/4 bspt (think its right) hole next to the stock oil pressure sender. I got a 1/4 bspt fitting but it wont fit in... might just drill out the 7M plate... what did you guys do?

Sorry bout the questions, but im getting so close now, almost got it going.

Cheers fellas

[slide86]

is the car misfiring?
could be due to the large injectors and the state of tune. some ECU's have a drama with idling on large injectors......

sounds like there is air in the powersteering system. run the car for a bit with the front wheels off the ground and turning the wheel. this should bleed the air out of the system.....some times they take a while to get quiet.

the clunk could possibly be a worn yoke joint. when you just releasse the clutch you will take up the slack in the tailshaft before the drive gets to the wheels. gets to be a common problem in older cars.

what is BSPT?

[BlackSupra]

Have you also got the vacuum lines attached to the power sterring pump from the inlet manifold?

Remove factory oil pressure sender and install aftermarket gauge there.

[EldarO]

my power steering was very much like your describing when i fitted my new engine.

i topped the fluid up, and took it for a drive, after a few streets, it started getting quieter and quieter, fifteen or so minutes of driving, and it was all good.

driveshaft sounds like worn uni joint, but could be as bad as some diff/gearbox blts being loose, so have a look!

Eldar.O.

[whatthe?]

What sort of fuel pressure reg have you got? I found that my car idled like a pig after I got the 1UZ AFM and 550s put in, as it was uber lean til it got off idle, then it was fine. Adding fuel with the SAFC (the "setting" option, then "lo-throttle" option), you add or subtract by %, mine needed 50% extra fuel added to idle decently til I adjusted the static rail pressure with my adjustable fuel pressure reg

Oh, and when you say you want to plumb your oil gauge into the hole right next to the sender, do you mean RIGHT next to? Cause right next to that sender is the one of the oil lines to the turbo

[EldarO]

where is the oil pressure sender...?

mine doesnt work :/

im guessing on the exhaust side of the N-Gin?

Eldar.O.

[doobs]

Slide: The car is not misfiring, just seems to be a bit rough, hard to describe there is a little bit of vibration when the engine is idling. BSPT is a thread, British Standard Pipe Tapered.

BlackSupra: I didn’t have the lines connected, but I quickly found that out once I narrowed the noise down to the PS pump. Still didn’t fix it.

Whatthe: I have the stock fuel pressure reg… I want to plumb it into this hole (pic thanx to IJ on supraforums). That hole is a 1/4BSPT, but it wont fit a 1/4BSPT fitting… leads me to believe its not a 1/4


Ill have to surf round the net, and become very familure with the SAFC, I have noticed it seems to have difficulty reading throttle position, its either 0% when I have my foot off the accelerator, or 100% even when I just touch it. I will check the connections when I connect the AFM to it.

I will try moving the wheels off the ground, and I will look underneath the car to see if anything is loose when I adjust the clutch. As for the oil line, I will work out how I can use this hole above and share it with you guys.

[whatthe?]

Check your TPS voltage settings in the menu, if you dont have them right it'll read weird TPS positions (like it is) There's a option to check what voltage it's putting out so you can set it properly

[BlackSupra]

Just to the left of the circled bolt is the massive round black oil pressure sensor for the dash

remove that with a spanner and install your oil pressure gauge straight in there.

If the light turns on for the oil pressure in your dash, there's a good chance the motor is going to be toast anyway!

[Negative Boost]

Here on this picture below provided by peewee, shows the other option on where to install an oil pressure guage into. Where he says 'i dont know z0r', thats just a plug and it goes into an oil gallery.


Thats actually the location on where the oil switch is located on 5M engines. I'm using this location to plumb my oil pressure guage into. I think i know what you mean by the threads being wrong aswell. As the fitting i have for the guage only screws into the block 1-2 turns. I'm going to use this anyways and just keep an eye on it if it leaks. Hopefully it'll be okay.

[doobs]

Check your TPS voltage settings in the menu, if you dont have them right it'll read weird TPS positions (like it is) There's a option to check what voltage it's putting out so you can set it properly

Yeah I seen that, and I also set my throttle to the 'up arrow', but still when im not touching the throttle, its on 0% (0v), as soon as I lightly touch the throttle it goes to 100% (5v). I beleive the TPS is within the specs in the TSRM, I'll check both the TPS and SAFC wiring but I think its good... Dont know what else I can do.

BlackSupra: I'll probly end up doing that if I cant get a fitting to fit in the other holes.

Do you rekon the stock o2 sensor, with a cheap jaycar kit, will be good enough to roughly tune the SAFC? I can't see why not, just until I can run it in and then get it properly tuned on a dyno.

[doobs]

Changed the topic, really only need to solve the running rough now.

But first of all, I need to get the SAFC going. Currently I can not get a correct throtte poition reading. Either its 0% when nothings applied to the accelarator, or 100% when anything is applied.

I have checked my TPS and its all in spec according to the TSRM, Initally it was wrong, but I have corrected it with no change to the SAFC. I have looked the voltage on the SAFC, and its only varying between 0v and 5v.

I will measure the voltage between E2 and VTA and see if its varying there.

What else ould it be?

[whatthe?]

Isnt the up arrow in the SAFC options for higher than 5v TPS? Have you also tried the down arrow? I remember fooling around with mine and getting exactly the same result as youve explained when I had it set wrong. If you dont have the AFM signal interrupt wires hooked up it wont make any difference to the way the car runs, but if you do hook them up it'll definitely make it unhappy.
Simple stuff, AFM type selected as Karman? Correct number of cylinders? (j/k on the last one). Until you plumb it into the AFM signal wire it's only monitoring and reporting info it gets from the wires its plumbed into, so if you do connect it to the AFM wire and the car wont run you'd know it's a setting wrong on the SAFC somewhere. From experience you'll have to richen it up at idle and progressively lean it out as the revs rise, I'd be trying to borrow a wideband for this if you dont want it done on a dyno.
How much boost do you want to run? 10 degrees base timing was way too much for mine as it started pinging badly at high RPM at over 12psi. I had to buy a tining controller to run higher boost than that and even then was running about 5 degrees base

[doobs]

I plan on running stock boost atm. So you rekon I need to bump it forward a few degrees? Well I have access to a wide band sensor, I'd just have to get it plumbed into my exhaust... I dont think you can use the stock spot can you? I do plan on getting it dyno tuned, I was just going to do it rough with my o2 sensor and run it in, then take it to the dyno.

Good news, in theroy I have sovled the safc prob I have connected the TPS signal to IDL not VTA, I will fix it tomorrow and hook up the afm and then see what happens

[whatthe?]

10 degrees is ok for stock boost, you'd need to retard it if you want to run more, as the ECU has no provision for retarding timing over and above boost levels it was designed to run